cooter-1

I had to install a new driver's side door handle last year and I've never been able to get the linkage properly adjusted. The central locks don't work now and the key won't lock either side without the locks popping back up. It worked OK while the weather was cool, but now the Texas heat is coming on and the Blue Beast is sitting in the garage unlocked. Does anyone know this info on linkage adjustment? I don't want to have to take the door panel and glass out again unless I have some pointers on getting the lock linkage right.

Thanks,
Gary Coots '87 951 (soon to have new nose panel and front end re-painted)

icat

There is a disassembly guide in the 968 Door Handle Upgrade in my sig. Also includes a very brief explanation of the central locking issue you are having.

cooter-1

The door lock is a little different on the "87. There isn't a "pin" holding the actuator arm but instead, it's a brad with a flat head and the other end is flattened. I don't know why they changed the design. Anyway, that little arm that hold the "pin" or "brad" was what had broken on my original door handle and why I had to replace it in the first place. The piece is all part of the casting of the door handle and I didn't think J.B. Weld or any other soldering or brazing would hold since it is fairly soft "pot" metal.
After reading your 968 Door Handle Upgrade (which is VERY GOOD, by the way), I think I might have installed the lockset 180º off or even the CLS microswitch might not be aligned properly. I should have taken digital photos as I went along when taking it apart the first time. Also, at the other end of the actuator arm it is threaded for about a half inch and a black plastic connector screws onto this (how far, I don't know). The Black plastic connector snaps onto a ball inside the door on another arm. So many adjustments!!!! This is why I pulled the door panel and glass out to begin with. Also, on the "87, the window guide rail must be removed (after removing the glass) to access the door lock mechanism from the inside. Any more ideas on this would be greatlt appreciated. BTW Keith, I'm in Arlington, so we're just a stone's throw away from each other.
Thanks,
Gary

icat

I have found that the position of the micro switch is critical to the operation of the central locking system. Makes me wonder how it ever worked in the first place. It is next to imposible to get it right the first time you put it back together (or second time for that matter). I still don't like the way mine works and will likely pull it apart again this summer to rework it. I think I will probably install new micro switches this time as well - not sure I trust the issue to be totally position related when I'm working with a 19 year old electronic switch.
The "issue" with access is the same on the 86 951. The anti-theft devices make access from the door panel a bit more difficult, hence the "do it from the outside" procedure.
What part of Arlington are you in? I went to high school at Sam Houston (Class of 74) and did a bit of time at UTA as well. Met my wife at Sam and both of my kids were born at Arlington Memorial. My in-laws live across from Randal Mill park and we get up there every so often. Need to plan a trip soon to pick up the Turbo skirts I bought from another Rennlister. Maybe we could tackle this as a group project. I'm amazed at the number of Rennlisters in the DFW area - especially in the 924/944/968 crowd!

danny951

Just had to say welcome to another Arlington rennlister. I'm actually having Central Locking problems on my '87 as well.. I can get in and lock either door, but unlocking the driver side doesn't unlock the pass. side and the switch in the console makes sounds like it is working and the red light comes on and off, but the doors don't lock. Maybe we should gtg and compare notes..

Oh, and where are you getting your nose repainted? I need that too!!!