need advice on cylinder score
03-26-2005, 02:48 PM
#31
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Hey Tom, I remember Garrity...he quit and went to medical school? I have one of his flywheels and I've used that "pattern" several time with friends flywheel with great success.
Tom, you have that stud remover part number handy?
Tom, you have that stud remover part number handy?
03-26-2005, 03:41 PM
#32
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Thread Starter
I have no sources for head work nearby , everything probably has to be shipped to the Us and back again..
Can`t see no obvious sign of a HG leak on either the block, head or gasket..
I also was planning on thermo wrapping the entire headers and x-over.
I``m not going to run it with high boost, probably going to end up somewhere around 15 -16psi..
If I could manage without changing studs that would be fine.. as long as I`m not risking doing the job once more before summer has ended cause of bad studs.
What do think of o-ringing the head?
Did not plan to run 1,4 bar at the first place, I bought it like that. Replaced the WG And put the boost to 1bar according to chip setup, and bought a WBO2.
the car had a 6% leakdown in cyl nr 2 when I bought it.
Can`t see no obvious sign of a HG leak on either the block, head or gasket..
I also was planning on thermo wrapping the entire headers and x-over.
I``m not going to run it with high boost, probably going to end up somewhere around 15 -16psi..
If I could manage without changing studs that would be fine.. as long as I`m not risking doing the job once more before summer has ended cause of bad studs.
What do think of o-ringing the head?
If you were pressurizing the coolant system under boost then it sounds like your leakdown in cyl #2 may have been a headgasket. If you plan to run 1.4 bar boost again then you want to redo your engine management and turbo selection to accommodate that level of boost
the car had a 6% leakdown in cyl nr 2 when I bought it.
03-26-2005, 04:37 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Ski
Hey Tom, I remember Garrity...he quit and went to medical school? I have one of his flywheels and I've used that "pattern" several time with friends flywheel with great success.
Tom, you have that stud remover part number handy?
Tom, you have that stud remover part number handy?
I'll find the snap-on number this afternoon. It is a must have tool.
That was the rumor about Garrity -- medical school. Bummer for us -- he seemed to have unlimited funds and an equally unlimited love for making 944 parts. I can only hope his shop is not going to waste...
03-26-2005, 04:40 PM
#35
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“Did take a compresion test a couple days before the leakdown test .
They where 148 in cyl 1 , 150 in nr 2, 145 in nr 3 and 145 in nr 4 ( all in lbf/sq.in ) ..
leakdown below 1% in cyl nr 1 and 3 and below 2% in nr 4 , 12 % in nr 2 ..”
If nothing in particular happened to the engine between the two tests, then it looks like the leak-down test was at fault on #2 cylinder, maybe a leaking hose to sparkplug-hole joint.
What was the piston positions during the leak-down test? Preferably it should be 10-20 degrees ATDC on the combustion stroke, since that is where the peak combustion pressure and peak torque occurs.
Evaluating the seriousness of a scratch can in addition to a “nail test” be done by comparing the leaking cross-section to a ring gap and piston valve clearance.
If you don’t like cylinder scratches, then stick with a good air filter, for example OEM paper.
You can test how the valves seal (seat and stem) by applying vacuum to the ports (after creating two fittings) and see how slowly the pressure builds up again.
Laust
They where 148 in cyl 1 , 150 in nr 2, 145 in nr 3 and 145 in nr 4 ( all in lbf/sq.in ) ..
leakdown below 1% in cyl nr 1 and 3 and below 2% in nr 4 , 12 % in nr 2 ..”
If nothing in particular happened to the engine between the two tests, then it looks like the leak-down test was at fault on #2 cylinder, maybe a leaking hose to sparkplug-hole joint.
What was the piston positions during the leak-down test? Preferably it should be 10-20 degrees ATDC on the combustion stroke, since that is where the peak combustion pressure and peak torque occurs.
Evaluating the seriousness of a scratch can in addition to a “nail test” be done by comparing the leaking cross-section to a ring gap and piston valve clearance.
If you don’t like cylinder scratches, then stick with a good air filter, for example OEM paper.
You can test how the valves seal (seat and stem) by applying vacuum to the ports (after creating two fittings) and see how slowly the pressure builds up again.
Laust
03-27-2005, 03:28 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
Ski, the snap-on stud remover is made up of a housing, CG500-2 and the collet itself, CG-500-49. Not cheap, but well worth it if you are planning to pull head studs.
03-27-2005, 07:52 AM
#37
Pro
Thread Starter
If nothing in particular happened to the engine between the two tests, then it looks like the leak-down test was at fault on #2 cylinder, maybe a leaking hose to sparkplug-hole joint.
What was the piston positions during the leak-down test? Preferably it should be 10-20 degrees ATDC on the combustion stroke, since that is where the peak combustion pressure and peak torque occurs.
What was the piston positions during the leak-down test? Preferably it should be 10-20 degrees ATDC on the combustion stroke, since that is where the peak combustion pressure and peak torque occurs.
Well, only thing that happend between the two tests where that the amount of Air in the coolanttank increases and the white smoke got more obvious...
The leakdown test was performed with engine at TDC .. The engine was turned until it was at its highest compresion numbers ( or would this be ATDC )
The leakdown test was done by a mechanic at a garage,
I tried at home first and got even higher numbers than posted , but as my leakdowntester is pretty old and It`s not the rolls royce of leakdowntesters..
I tok it to a mechanic to verify.
03-27-2005, 08:02 AM
#38
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Garrity was one of the forerunner of sleeving the
951 block. Friend of mine paid about 10K for a 3L
engine. Unfortunately, he had the misfortune of
having blown gaskets & poor cylinder sealing.
Apparently the Ross pistons & sleeve material that
Garrity used did not work well.
951 block. Friend of mine paid about 10K for a 3L
engine. Unfortunately, he had the misfortune of
having blown gaskets & poor cylinder sealing.
Apparently the Ross pistons & sleeve material that
Garrity used did not work well.
03-27-2005, 12:16 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by J Chen
Garrity was one of the forerunner of sleeving the
951 block. Friend of mine paid about 10K for a 3L
engine. Unfortunately, he had the misfortune of
having blown gaskets & poor cylinder sealing.
Apparently the Ross pistons & sleeve material that
Garrity used did not work well.
951 block. Friend of mine paid about 10K for a 3L
engine. Unfortunately, he had the misfortune of
having blown gaskets & poor cylinder sealing.
Apparently the Ross pistons & sleeve material that
Garrity used did not work well.
03-27-2005, 02:46 PM
#40
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
Ski, the snap-on stud remover is made up of a housing, CG500-2 and the collet itself, CG-500-49. Not cheap, but well worth it if you are planning to pull head studs.
CG500-2 $46
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
CG500-49 $25
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
03-29-2005, 02:35 PM
#41
Pro
Thread Starter
bump.. for me
Is there anything I could use when cleaning the head/block .. Would carburetor cleaner be OK ?
BTW Tom, gret advice on the snap on tool. ..
The correct link to the collet CG500-49
hmm .. The studs should be 12mm , right ?
Is there anything I could use when cleaning the head/block .. Would carburetor cleaner be OK ?
BTW Tom, gret advice on the snap on tool. ..
The correct link to the collet CG500-49
hmm .. The studs should be 12mm , right ?
Last edited by blodstrupmoen; 03-29-2005 at 02:50 PM.
