Rear control arm to spring plate torque
#1
Rear control arm to spring plate torque
What is the proper torque setting for the 3 bolts that hold the spring plate to the rear control arm?
And, since it seems impossible to fit a torque wrench to the nuts on the inside surface of the spring plate, is it OK to reverse the bolts so the nuts face the outside, and so could be reached with a torque wrench?
And, since it seems impossible to fit a torque wrench to the nuts on the inside surface of the spring plate, is it OK to reverse the bolts so the nuts face the outside, and so could be reached with a torque wrench?
#2
I think the torque spec is 83 lbs (working from memory after my upgrade a few months ago). Pick up one of the small, pocket-sized Tech Ref manuals. They're ~$10 and have all the torque specs, wear limits, etc. and are worth their weight in gold.
You can just put the torque wrench on the bolt head as long as you're using a washer between the bolt head and control arm (which you should be).
If you are going to have the car aligned after re-installing, don't torque the bolts all the way as the alignment tech will have to loosen these. It's tough to loosen them w/ the wheel on the car.
You can just put the torque wrench on the bolt head as long as you're using a washer between the bolt head and control arm (which you should be).
If you are going to have the car aligned after re-installing, don't torque the bolts all the way as the alignment tech will have to loosen these. It's tough to loosen them w/ the wheel on the car.
#3
Thanks, Jerome. The Haynes manuual has various torque settings for the rear suspension, but makes no specific mention of the rear control arm to spring plate torque. Neither does the factory shop manual, that I have yet found.
Regarding the question of reversing the bolts: Since there is always some torsional resistance/friction from the washers, and since it seems impossible to fit a torque wrench at the inner side of the rear control arm, would it not be a more accurate torque setting and also easier to reverse the bolts/nuts and torque the nuts from the outer side?
Regarding the question of reversing the bolts: Since there is always some torsional resistance/friction from the washers, and since it seems impossible to fit a torque wrench at the inner side of the rear control arm, would it not be a more accurate torque setting and also easier to reverse the bolts/nuts and torque the nuts from the outer side?