danny951

alright, after looking around, I found what looks to be a hose connection that isn't connected !? Can someone tell me what this is and what is supposed to hook up to it?? Funny because this is the area I can hear a whistling PSSSS sound when idling if I listen closely (like a leak sound) so could this be it???

awilson40

dont sweat it, its a vent tube from the belt cover to the air box. You should cap it with something
just to keep debre from falling in. There is actually an update that caps both ends.

danny951

well I checked all my intake hoses and they are fine and tight. Can someone confirm for me the TPS.. Mine clicks at the idle position, but does not click at full throttle. Should it? Could this be my trouble?

hosrom_951

You should hear two clicks, once when you open the throttle and once when it's closed.

You could check the resistance of the TPS by unplugging it and place a multimeter between the terminals (can't recall which ones), you shoudl see 1-10ohm when the throttle is closed, and infinity once it's open.

F18Rep

I thought that fault code thing started in 88, not available in 87(I've been wrong on once or twice).

danny951

So I guess that throws my theory out... Mine does click right when I open it... it's not supposed to click at full throttle?

hosrom_951

It should click ONCE you open the throttle, click again when the throttle is closed.......no other clicks should be present, even at full throttle.

brad-cam

danny951, my apologies if this has been covered already in this thread, but when I got my 951, it also would only boost to 1.2 bar. I had two problems which I corrected at the same time and it fixed it up:

- exhaust manifolds (headers) were leaking
- Blowoff Valve (BOV) was leaking. The rubber diaphragm inside was ripped

The first one is very obvious as the exhaust leak makes it sound like a diesel
The second one was more subtle and was a massive vacuum leak that I couldn't see.

special tool

Danny - I told you you had no fault codes - you do not get good idle with fault codes.

Now - since your crank vent is disconnected, what does the port look like where it was connected to?

Actually if you want, pm me and I'll send you my phone number. I can walk you through the 57,000 possible things while I am watching my 4-year old and her cousin today. You will be doing ME a favor.

TurboTommy

1.2 bar on your gauge corresponds to the spring strength of the wastegate.
Therefore, it would be a huge coincidence if it is anything other than electrical devices that contribute to your boost control. What are the chances that it's leaking exhaust or vacuum leak that's causing it to achieve exactly .2 bar boost! No Way!

Had the same thing with my car. I replaced the CV and the TPS (two major contributors to this delema), problem solved.
The TPS can be faulty in such a way that it doesn't give the signal to the KLR to indicate that full throttle is desired (boost control is activated beyond the wastegate spring), and yet the rest of the TPS arc seems perfectly normal. I don't know if this would produce a fault code.

danny951

alright, I've replaced the vacuum lines and clamped off the cv line to the wastegate, and I still get only around 1.2-1.4 bar... It is weird, sometimes I can get full boost (with all things normal, i.e. no clamped wastegate line) and then I turn the car around and go again and it's back to low boost levels. I showed my mechanic and he says since we've clamped the wastegate signal and still not making full boost, it's either the turbo or the wastegate, but since we can sometimes make full boost, he said it sounds like the wastegate.. we then lifted the car and checked the wg diaphram with a vacuum and the diaphram tested good... so it would have to be the spring on the wastegate is weakened and that is why my boost is intermittent.

any other ideas? or perhaps something we've overlooked?

I guess my next course is to order a new wastegate.. I am thinking about the LR dual port gate since eventually I may get their 340HP kit and they could probably deduct their own wastegate from the package... I'll check with them on that.

testarossa_td

Get some boost enhancer (Lindsey, Accu, Reli) and don't worry about the wastegate
The TPS can fail anywhere along it's travel! Click or no Click.

hosrom_951

Right.....

About clamping the wastegate line, that leaves the wastegate fully "closed" and allows max boost, even with the CV installed.

If you don't see 21+psi (even on a bone stock car) with that line clamped/blocked, you have a mechanical problem (possibly turbo, exhaust system etc.)

But you stated you "sometimes" get full boost.......that indicated no mechanical problems......

A better way of checking the TPS is reading the voltage at the KLR

danny951

I do sometimes get full boost... even on the way to have Don look at it, I had a few runs where I got to damn near 2bar absolute pressure on the stock guage.. and I'm not talking just on the guage, I could definately FEEL the boost and it felt right (and felt really good!) so I then shifted from 3rd to 4th and got the same boost again... after I had blown by my exit because I was so happy, I turned around and went back the other way, but then could only get around 1.3-1.4 absolute pressure and the car felt like much slower.. the boost would try to come on,b ut then it would fall back..

danny951

Even with a boost enhancer, if I have a wastegate spring problem, that won't fix my problem.. the boost pressure is getting to the wastegate and going right out because the spring is weak.. the signal to the wastegate has already been cut off (by clamping the CV signal) and I still don't make full boost...