Rceware Nut Specs
#1
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Thread Starter
Rceware Nut Specs
Does anyone know off hand the thread diameter and pitch of the top end of raceware studs? The nuts use a 9/16 socket, so I am guessing the threads are standard and not metric, but am not sure. Anyone?
I have the original nuts -- just looking for size so I can re-tighten by double nutting. I took my head off to do the gasket (again) and some of the studs are finger loose.
I have the original nuts -- just looking for size so I can re-tighten by double nutting. I took my head off to do the gasket (again) and some of the studs are finger loose.
#2
Tom,
I think they are 7/16 x 20. They are UNF. I don't think they are 1/2", but if they happen to be, the pitch will still be 20TPI.
Just a note, the studs should be installed hand tight only. Take them out if you can, clean out the threaded bores REALLY well. Install them with anti seize and hand tight. This way the torque will not jump from any friction. Any turning when torquing will not affect the final number.
I think they are 7/16 x 20. They are UNF. I don't think they are 1/2", but if they happen to be, the pitch will still be 20TPI.
Just a note, the studs should be installed hand tight only. Take them out if you can, clean out the threaded bores REALLY well. Install them with anti seize and hand tight. This way the torque will not jump from any friction. Any turning when torquing will not affect the final number.
#3
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by m42racer
Tom,
I think they are 7/16 x 20. They are UNF. I don't think they are 1/2", but if they happen to be, the pitch will still be 20TPI.
Just a note, the studs should be installed hand tight only. Take them out if you can, clean out the threaded bores REALLY well. Install them with anti seize and hand tight. This way the torque will not jump from any friction. Any turning when torquing will not affect the final number.
I think they are 7/16 x 20. They are UNF. I don't think they are 1/2", but if they happen to be, the pitch will still be 20TPI.
Just a note, the studs should be installed hand tight only. Take them out if you can, clean out the threaded bores REALLY well. Install them with anti seize and hand tight. This way the torque will not jump from any friction. Any turning when torquing will not affect the final number.
I screwed them in hand tight about 2 years ago, but noticed at least one of them seems to be loose -- maybe it backed out a bit when I removed the nut? Raceware suggests teflon pipe sealer rather than anti-seize. I was going to double nut them just to get some grip (hand tighten), since otherwise I can't even really get them snug. (And to remove any that are now snug.) Not a good idea?
#4
No problem. If they won't come out leave them. I know how hard that is. The teflon pipe sealer I think is to stop any water corroding the Base metal and the Studs as they are dis similar. The reason to clean them is to ensure the Torquing is consistant. Sometimes the nut turns under Torquing and then breaks loose. I think this is really important when the tightening is done by degrees.
#5
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Thread Starter
Well, after a trip to the hardware store, the Raceware nut would screw onto a 7/16 20pitch bolt, but was too loose. I am starting to believe the nut is SAE outside and metric (M12 x 1.0 or 1.25) inside.
#7
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Originally Posted by BoostGuy951
What about using loctite when you install? Is there any reason not to do this?
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#9
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Konstatin -- Do you mean loctite physically does not work with Raceware hardware (if so, why not?), or that the two companies don't have an agreement to promote each other? Raceware does not recommend that you use any thread locker, from any company.
#10
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raceware has teflon coating and the loctite will not secure the stud becaus eof the coating.
you need metal to metal contact in order to secure it
Konstantin
you need metal to metal contact in order to secure it
Konstantin
#11
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Konstantin
raceware has teflon coating and the loctite will not secure the stud becaus eof the coating.
you need metal to metal contact in order to secure it
Konstantin
you need metal to metal contact in order to secure it
Konstantin
#12
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
Well, after a trip to the hardware store, the Raceware nut would screw onto a 7/16 20pitch bolt, but was too loose. I am starting to believe the nut is SAE outside and metric (M12 x 1.0 or 1.25) inside.
For the record, after a bit of trial and effort, it appears they are indeed 9/16 flat-to-flat on the outside, and M12 1.25 on the inside.