evil 944t

Narrowband A/F is better than nothing. Its a good dummy light.

A wideband o2 and an EGT gauge is the best way to go! Piggyback with data logging too! SMT6!!

Mikeaagesen

I voted for something else. I have a narrow band and its just a waste of money. I've heard stories of those things being far from accurate. I will be selling mine very soon for a wideband system. I am just waiting for the new display from Zeitronix to be released or the release of the new plx unit.

SamGrant951

Heres a good explanation of narrowband from turbite: (I edited out the wideband info and left out the pictures)

The stock 02 sensors only purpose is to tell the DME when the mixture is > 14.7 AFR or < 14.7.
When in closed loop mode (meaning the DME adjusts the fuel mixture according to the oxygen sensor feedback) the AFR with dither back and forth right around 14.7.

During open loop mode (at WOT) the oxygen sensor is ignored by the DME.
Typically the goal at WOT is 12.5 AFR because it produces more power.
A narrowband AFR gauge can give you absolutely _zero_ information about the ratio when at WOT. At wot it will just show "rich." The difference in the voltage curve between 13AFR and 10AFR is very very small. Essentially, a narrowband can only tell you whether you are above or below 14.7 AFR, and provide a piece of eye candy for people to ask about. Do not rely on it for any off-idle diagnostic info.

evil 944t

The narrow band gets its signal from the o2 sensor, not the dme. Mine is soldered to the o2 wires themselves not anywhere on the DME

Ian Carr

If its wired to the o2 sensor it would work at all rmps on and off acceleration right??

Cyrus951

That's why companies recommend you to install it in the outside the cabin, say the Autometer 3312 for example. They recommend you install it in the windshield cowling.
Installing them is straight forward, you just splice a T into the fuel line, and run braided steel lines to the back of the gauge.

toddk911

EGT

PCinDC

The SPA dual gauges are nice, fit in the A-pillar and there's a hundred different combinations. I have Boost/Air temp in one gauge, Oil/Water temp in the other. All of the gauges are electronic so you can mount the sensor anywhere in the engine bay, without having to run anything but the electrical leads to the passenger compartment. This includes fuel pressure.

Here's the combinations they currently offer:

DG 200B Oil Pressure / Water Temperature
DG 201B Oil Pressure / Oil Temperature
DG 202B Fuel Pressure / Water Temperature
DG 203B Water Temperature / Oil Temperature
DG 204B Volts / Water Temperature
DG 205B Brake Bias - Front / Rear
DG 206B Turbo Boost / Temperature
DG 207B Fuel Pressure / Volts
DG 208B Oil Pressure / Volts
DG 209B Oil Temperature / Oil Temperature
DG 210B Temperature / Temperature
DG 211B Boost / EGT Kit
DG 212B Fuel Pressure / Oil Temperature
DG 213B Pressure / Temperature
DG 214B Transmission Temperature / Rear End Temperature
DG 215B Fuel Pressure / Oil Pressure
DG 216B Boost / Fuel Pressure
DG 217B Boost / Oil Pressure

Worth considering, since you can get pretty much anything you want and be able to monitor 4 vitals in the a-pillar.

Ian Carr

250$ for a gauge... a little to pricey...

hosrom_951

Dual digital gauges to be correct

Ian Carr

Very sorry... 250$ for DUAL DIGITAL GAUGES seems a bit pricey...

hosrom_951

LOL!

NZ951

I had a NB for a year or so. Its a waste of time really. You stop looking at it because the readings are never that accurate. I just moved to WB and you can actually tune off it! If you cant afford a Tech Edge or PLX etc and gauge, then wait till you can and buy another type of gauge in the mean time (not NB though, dont want to spend money again on AF stuff!)

Ian Carr

I'm suprised no one has voted for water temp... Your right NZ it wouldn't make since to get the NB if i want to get a WB in the future. ill let this run a couple more days and see what i am gona get. But I don't plan on getting a WB right away.

Cyrus951

The only reason I bought a water temp gauge was to fill one hole of the gauge cubby.