Will a Yellow Top Optima battery overwork the alternator?
#1
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,485
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From: San Francisco Bay Area, CA
Will a Yellow Top Optima battery overwork the alternator?
Greetings,
I have a 87 951, and I put a Yellow Top Optima battery on the car. If I park the car over 2-3 days, the battery would run out and I would need to jump start the car.
Would it be the alternator is old and needs to be replaced, or would the Yellow Top battery overworks the alternator so it couldn't be charged well?
Thanks in advance for any help,
With best regards,
- Alex.
I have a 87 951, and I put a Yellow Top Optima battery on the car. If I park the car over 2-3 days, the battery would run out and I would need to jump start the car.
Would it be the alternator is old and needs to be replaced, or would the Yellow Top battery overworks the alternator so it couldn't be charged well?
Thanks in advance for any help,
With best regards,
- Alex.
#3
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 1
From: San Francisco Bay Area, CA
Previous battery (bought from Kragan Auto Parts) last at least 2 to 3 weeks.
Does it also mean the Yellow Top Optima (compares to a regular battery) does not require extra workload from the alternator to charge?
Many thanks,
Does it also mean the Yellow Top Optima (compares to a regular battery) does not require extra workload from the alternator to charge?
Many thanks,
#5
The battery will not "over work" the alternator.
Alternator load (current output) is a function of not only the charge state of the battery. Alternator load is also a function of how much current is being drawn by the other electrical systems.
To determine if the alternator is chargine the battery, with the engine off connect a volt meter to the battery and take a voltage reading. Start the engine and read the voltage again. If the alternator is charging you should see at least 13.8 volts DC.
Since the battery is draining while the engine is shut down, you have a "parasitic drain," which simply means that something, or a combination of somethings is drawing current from the battery all of the time and is not being shut down when the ignition is off.
Common sources for parasitic currents are aftermarket alarm systems, aftermarket stereo head units, aftermarket stereo amps, radar detectors, navigation systems, and so forth.
Finally, make sure the battery and battery box are absolutely clean (external salt tracks conduct current), and all battery connections are clean and tight.
Alternator load (current output) is a function of not only the charge state of the battery. Alternator load is also a function of how much current is being drawn by the other electrical systems.
To determine if the alternator is chargine the battery, with the engine off connect a volt meter to the battery and take a voltage reading. Start the engine and read the voltage again. If the alternator is charging you should see at least 13.8 volts DC.
Since the battery is draining while the engine is shut down, you have a "parasitic drain," which simply means that something, or a combination of somethings is drawing current from the battery all of the time and is not being shut down when the ignition is off.
Common sources for parasitic currents are aftermarket alarm systems, aftermarket stereo head units, aftermarket stereo amps, radar detectors, navigation systems, and so forth.
Finally, make sure the battery and battery box are absolutely clean (external salt tracks conduct current), and all battery connections are clean and tight.
#6
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 1
From: San Francisco Bay Area, CA
Thanks very much for the detailed explanation.
It is kind of intereting that whenever I start the car, the on-dash voltmeter will show about 13.5V. Then after driving for some distance (e.g. a 10 mile freeway trip to the office) it will drop to 11.8V and never go back up to 13.5.
When I go home after work and start the car, the voltmeter will go to 13V-13.5V again, and when I almost home it will drop back to 11.8V.
Does it tell something is wrong?
With best regards,
It is kind of intereting that whenever I start the car, the on-dash voltmeter will show about 13.5V. Then after driving for some distance (e.g. a 10 mile freeway trip to the office) it will drop to 11.8V and never go back up to 13.5.
When I go home after work and start the car, the voltmeter will go to 13V-13.5V again, and when I almost home it will drop back to 11.8V.
Does it tell something is wrong?
With best regards,
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#9
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Cable Guy
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Cable Guy
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From: Don Mills, Canuckistan
Originally Posted by axhoaxho
Thanks very much for the detailed explanation.
It is kind of intereting that whenever I start the car, the on-dash voltmeter will show about 13.5V. Then after driving for some distance (e.g. a 10 mile freeway trip to the office) it will drop to 11.8V and never go back up to 13.5.
When I go home after work and start the car, the voltmeter will go to 13V-13.5V again, and when I almost home it will drop back to 11.8V.
Does it tell something is wrong?
With best regards,
It is kind of intereting that whenever I start the car, the on-dash voltmeter will show about 13.5V. Then after driving for some distance (e.g. a 10 mile freeway trip to the office) it will drop to 11.8V and never go back up to 13.5.
When I go home after work and start the car, the voltmeter will go to 13V-13.5V again, and when I almost home it will drop back to 11.8V.
Does it tell something is wrong?
With best regards,
It looks like something is still left on. Some people have had their glovebox lights left on ... make sure the switch turns off the light. If there is a problem with your temp switch for the fans ... the fans will stay on until the battery almost dies. If the turbo water pump connection gets wet the turbo water pump stays on thus killing the battery.
If you have not changed the pos and neg battery cables ... now is the time. Do a search for iceshark as he does sell a great set of cables.
Hope this helps,