BoostGuy951

I am an electrical newb. I'm about to finally get around to installing a ton of stuff that I am going to need to wire into a Switched power lead. Is the best one to use the one that I am using for my stereo? Here are the things I will wire in:

- 5 different auxillary 2 1/6 guages in the dash
- Ricer indiglo dash guage faces
- Link Knock display
- Zeitronix wideband display
- Boost Cooler Water injection switch and misc connections

Now. Since I have 8-10 wires to connect into the switched 12v lead, is there some sort of manifold type device that has a current inlet that I can hook up the main 12V lead to, and then have different ports to hook the auxillary devices to? I want to avoid twisting 8 wires together and covering with electrical tape. Also, since this will be a fairly large power drain altogether, is there a relay or something I might run a 12V lead directly from the battery, and then run the switched power lead into it just as a signal? So basically the in dash Switched lead would just be a signal for the relay to open up the circuit directly from the battery. Is there a relay available with that many ports?

Thanks!

Cyrus951

I connected my three 2" gauges to the radio's switched 12V.
Why not just tap into seperate fused lines? There are tons of switched 12Vs around the dash.

fortysixandtwo

You can get terminal blocks that will allow you to run multiple leads off of one source. Depending on what you can find, you may have to run some jumper wires from one connection to the next (not a big deal). Another option would be to solder all these leads together and run a single wire to your connection point. For the relay, usually they only have one or two outputs, but you would just use one output to power the terminal block / soldered bundle. Don't forget to use shrink wrap at all the terminations or solder points, this will seal the exposed wiring.

Ski

I agree the stereo wiring has plenty of power for your gauges. Does the WBO2 have any voltage requirements? If so, 18 or 35 off the DME will get you plenty of voltage and switched too.

As far as the water injection/cooler, when do you want it on...do you have pressure switch with wired voltage, ie when your boost hits 13psi on the way to ??, the pressure switch will close the connection and provide power to the pump. You could wire this anywhere under the hood with power. just an idea

KuHL 951

You can buy a 4-12 plug fuse box that takes the standard auto fuses. It's a good way to protect each circuit without looking for the silly in-line fuse evertime a light goes out. Just saw one today in the Newark catalog for $22. Takes up to a #4 feeder line and all the hard wiring is inside, out of harms way.

NZ951

Not totally relevant, but here is my "home made" effort.

Swedish Meatball

Hmm does it exist both a switched power lead as well as an non-switched power lead to the stereo? I tried connecting my stuff to the power going to the stereo, but that it wasn't switched? Should I keep looking?