Can't get the gin off my face - flat foot shifting using simple MSD components...
#32
Ok for the people that don't understand this, it is a thing that limits the revs with the clutch in to whatever you set it at, meaning you can make full throttle shifts while keeping your foot on the gas. It is also good for launching, you just set it at what RPM you want to launch at, hold down the gas and clutch, then release clutch.
#33
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PTskater944, You are correct. I don't consider the 951 as a drag car, so launch control is not the idea I was after. Full Throttle shift (anti-lag) is what I like..
#35
Are there any reliability issues with this? Somebody back on the first page made a joke about blowing transmissions, but I don't see how this would cause that to happen. I think it could actually be better for your clutch if you have it set at the right RPM. Am I right?
#36
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At the correct RPM, that is correct but the problem is the "correct" RPM for matching speeds is different from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, etc. It also depends on the speed of the car (which determines the rotational speed of the assembly to the rear of the clutch plate). To my knowledge there is no computer or "box" that will factor in all these variables and "get it right", although if someone made one, it'd be interesting and certainly make clutches last a helluva lot longer. Right now the best solution is still "by feel, by sound".
Too many of these bozos will set it for redline or 4 or 5 grand attempting to turn their 951s into drag cars. Go ahead - I need some more parts. I detect a glut of parts cars on the market in about a month. You WILL destroy your drivetrain if you try to drag a 944 - no ifs, ands, or buts about it. They are not intended to be drag cars. If you want one, get something with a solid rear suspension and a 10 or 12-inch rear end. The CVs won't handle it and the R&P certainly won't, even on the 951s. It's stronger than on the n/a cars, but not designed for repeated high-torque slam shifting.
Too many of these bozos will set it for redline or 4 or 5 grand attempting to turn their 951s into drag cars. Go ahead - I need some more parts. I detect a glut of parts cars on the market in about a month. You WILL destroy your drivetrain if you try to drag a 944 - no ifs, ands, or buts about it. They are not intended to be drag cars. If you want one, get something with a solid rear suspension and a 10 or 12-inch rear end. The CVs won't handle it and the R&P certainly won't, even on the 951s. It's stronger than on the n/a cars, but not designed for repeated high-torque slam shifting.
#37
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Guys - porscheophile is assuming you are going to sidestep (drop abruptly) the clutch. If you do that, you will have trouble - just like a normal operation. You still have to SMOOTHLY release the clutch. THIS IS BASIC MECHANICAL KNOWLEDGE.
Even when you smoothly release the clutch, you still benefit from BOTH the better spoolup from never closing the throttle plate AND always being in the powercurve upon gear engagement.
Porsche-o phile - you are a very negative guy - I am just trying to give out FREE ideas to the board. I bet noone ever takes you to lunch, man.
Even when you smoothly release the clutch, you still benefit from BOTH the better spoolup from never closing the throttle plate AND always being in the powercurve upon gear engagement.
Porsche-o phile - you are a very negative guy - I am just trying to give out FREE ideas to the board. I bet noone ever takes you to lunch, man.
#38
Race Director
how do you rev match on a down shift with this thing? The spread between most gear is 1000 to 1500 RPM.
So I am at the top of 2nd gear 6200 RPM and shift to 3rd. Lets assume a 1200 rpm drop in gear. That puts me at 5000 RPM in 3rd gear. Perfect. Now... why would I want to RPM to change to 4000? I need 5000? Same for a 2nd to 3rd gear down shift. I am in 3rd and brake downshift at 4000 RPM and need 5200 Rpm in 2nd. How do I do that when the engine goes to 4000?
I just don't get it.
So I am at the top of 2nd gear 6200 RPM and shift to 3rd. Lets assume a 1200 rpm drop in gear. That puts me at 5000 RPM in 3rd gear. Perfect. Now... why would I want to RPM to change to 4000? I need 5000? Same for a 2nd to 3rd gear down shift. I am in 3rd and brake downshift at 4000 RPM and need 5200 Rpm in 2nd. How do I do that when the engine goes to 4000?
I just don't get it.
#40
I have been using throttle control with my foot, I only lift to about 1/4 throttle when I shift, this seems to work well; not as accurate obviously, but having to work tthe throttle manually keeps my throttle control skills sharp. This really helps when having to shift at corner exit, etc., but doesn't work as well for anti-lag as a programed system could. A little practice with this minimizes the spool up though.
#41
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by special tool
B951s - the trick is to activate the switch at the TOP of clutch travel, not the bottom. At the bottom, you have to calculate the time of clutch travel - or you are sideways - and I can get pretty sideways when it is 15 degrees F outside
Did you fab a bracket or something, any pics???
Cheers.
#42
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No, the beauty is that the OEM porsche switch is a common configuration - so I got a $3.00 switch that fits EXACTLY as stock , just that it closes the circuit instead of opening it when you press the clutch.
#43
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I'm not trying to be negative (wait. . . that's negative. . .)
I'm TRYING to NOT be negative (wait. . . no. . .)
I'm trying to be POSITIVE (there) here, but I'm just concerned that a bunch of people will mis-use this technology and end up doing damage to their cars. It's actually a very good idea and used properly, it could greatly increase clutch life. Even if used as you say (releasing the clutch slowly and not "popping" it) with the RPMs juiced up, it will do damage - you can still overstress the CVs and the R&P. You will CERTAINLY tear up your clutch a lot faster. That's all I'm trying to say - it's a good idea, but in the hands of monkeys that don't think through the implications of what they're doing we'll end up with a lot of busted 951s out there. Then again, as I said - maybe that isn't so bad. . . I need some parts
Peace.
I'm TRYING to NOT be negative (wait. . . no. . .)
I'm trying to be POSITIVE (there) here, but I'm just concerned that a bunch of people will mis-use this technology and end up doing damage to their cars. It's actually a very good idea and used properly, it could greatly increase clutch life. Even if used as you say (releasing the clutch slowly and not "popping" it) with the RPMs juiced up, it will do damage - you can still overstress the CVs and the R&P. You will CERTAINLY tear up your clutch a lot faster. That's all I'm trying to say - it's a good idea, but in the hands of monkeys that don't think through the implications of what they're doing we'll end up with a lot of busted 951s out there. Then again, as I said - maybe that isn't so bad. . . I need some parts
Peace.
#44
Nordschleife Master
I don't see the place for discussing clutch life in this thread?
To really make use of this kind of function you need to apply full throttle.
Do a full throttle launch without additional revlimiter and you're burning up your clutch even faster..
Seriously, I'm not sure an old 951 is the right car for a person who don't understand what happens when you step off the clutch with full throttle?
To really make use of this kind of function you need to apply full throttle.
Do a full throttle launch without additional revlimiter and you're burning up your clutch even faster..
Seriously, I'm not sure an old 951 is the right car for a person who don't understand what happens when you step off the clutch with full throttle?
#45
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Porsche-O-Phile
I'll bet your R&P lasts about a week. . . that is if the CVs don't snap first.
You got that right. Why don't you boys go screw up some cars that deserve to be f'd over?