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Old 01-24-2005, 05:26 PM
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Zero10
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Default Clutch changing dilemma

I am presently facing a dilemma on my 951. I have decided to use the cup clutch, after hearing all of the opinions about it, it simply seems like the best idea.
Now, I presently have the entire intake off of my 951, and a lot of other things out of the way, and I am wondering, should I just pull the motor out to change the clutch?...
All of the cooling hoses and stuff are coming out anyways, and the oil pan gasket needs changing. I am pondering pulling the engine out the top.
Looking at the engine, it seems like a lot less work to simply pull the motor right now, and it would certainly give me more room to work with the head and such.

Or, should I finish what I'm working on, and drop the transmission to change the clutch like everybody else does?
Old 01-24-2005, 05:42 PM
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Jeremy Himsel
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Originally Posted by Zero10
I am presently facing a dilemma on my 951. I have decided to use the cup clutch, after hearing all of the opinions about it, it simply seems like the best idea.
Now, I presently have the entire intake off of my 951, and a lot of other things out of the way, and I am wondering, should I just pull the motor out to change the clutch?...
All of the cooling hoses and stuff are coming out anyways, and the oil pan gasket needs changing. I am pondering pulling the engine out the top.
Looking at the engine, it seems like a lot less work to simply pull the motor right now, and it would certainly give me more room to work with the head and such.

Or, should I finish what I'm working on, and drop the transmission to change the clutch like everybody else does?
If you're doing the pan gasket as well then just pull the motor as it doesn't take much more work to get the motor out. Plus, the time you save not having to disconnect the x-over in the car will make up for the few extra items you have to take apart. Despite popular belief, removing the motors from these cars is pretty easy. I personally drop them from the bottom and have never tried the top route as the bottom is so easy.....
Old 01-24-2005, 05:57 PM
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Zero10
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I don't like dropping motors out, you need a hoist either way, and need to take the hood off both ways, so why not go out the top?...
Then again, I might figure out why when I'm half-way done

I have the 2 piece crossover, so I've been told dropping that pipe isn't a big deal (no idea if it is or not).
I know the headlight bar has to come out to go out the top, but other than that, it looks easier. I'm not sure how far I want to take it apart, or how far I can afford to take it apart, but after seeing the results of my compression test, I wish to get things apart and see just what is wrong with this engine.
Old 01-24-2005, 06:14 PM
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The hood does not have to come off if you go out the bottom and neither does the headlight bar. I do usually have to remove the fan and radiator (main pulley left on and ), and loosen the coolant pipe that rund between the frame rails. Even with the 2 piece pipe it's still a PITA.
Old 01-25-2005, 01:00 AM
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boosted951
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i dropped my engine out recently too... i am doing to clutch, rear main, oil pan gasket, and rod bearings..... it took a couple of us rennlisters about 5 or 6 hours to get the engine out....
Old 01-25-2005, 02:25 AM
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I'm thinking,with it's current state of disassembly, that if I were to just go at it, I could have the engine out of the car in about 4 more hours.
However, care needs to be taken, and I don't have a crew of experienced people with me, so I'll allocate a full day for my endeavour.

So, to make sure I understand the job correctly, basically, I drop the control arms, so I can unbolt the motor mounts, unbolt the bell housing from the torque tube, remove all applicable wiring, drain all fluids, and remove all connected hoses (coolant, oil, power steering, etc), remove PS pump, alternator, and AC compressor from engine, remove headlight bar, then lift engine out?

I'm a little worried about the A/C, since, as I understand it, the system has been recently recharged and converted to R134A. I will check the state of charge, but I believe it is fully charged (I have a 134A pressure gauge set). So, I should leave the compressor in the engine bay, but what should I do with it?... duct tape?

I wish I knew where to stop... once the engine is out, I think I should change rod bearings, main bearings and rings, as well as oil pan gasket. But, if I'm pulling the crank, why not cross-drill? And, if I'm going that far, why not 2.8L?...
The 'while I'm in there's' and the 'might as well's' are all catching up to me... I don't know where to stop.
I got some rather dismal compression numbers out of this engine, so I am suspecting it will need some major work (some 65,000 mile engine, eh?!)...
Old 01-25-2005, 02:51 AM
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How far you should go is constrained by your disposable income and mod expectations and desires. Personally I dont like the stroked 2.8. If you are taking the engine out, then a good time to ship the head off for some work, raceware studs, WFHG etc. Why not send the cam off to JME. You can get a complete custom cam for like $650 and you can sel yours or keep it for later if you want to go back to stock for whatever reason. Cams are usually one of the last things however, if you have a known plan, then why not.
Old 01-25-2005, 02:57 PM
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Definetly take the motor out if you are going to do all that. Your back, neck, and a$$ will thank you. Put it on a stand, and go to town on it.
Old 01-25-2005, 03:13 PM
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This car may or may not have a webcam. The PO had one put in the old engine, but I don't think it was transferred over when they changed engines.

I think the plan is to get the motor out, and assess it's condition. I don't like to spend more money than I have to.
Old 01-25-2005, 03:17 PM
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I'd go out the bottom, out the top requires more components be removed, which is a hassle. I've done both. I doubt it'll take you 4 hours, I took my last motor out in 3 and you're considerably into the process already.

Sam



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