Ground Cleaning Surprise
08-18-2005, 06:38 AM
#16
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For the wire I was looking at Aircraft Spruce. So far for decent glass braid I can't find anywhere local that sells it so I've got the larger diameter stuff for my alternator cable from McMaster-Carr. Waytek's pretty decent if a tad expensive but ordering in bulk from them definitely helps. I hadn't seen Tefzel in their catalog but it's probably worth pricing out. What I need is a good source for the connectors and pins in the U.S. Amphenol Junior Timer stuff is nigh impossible to find other than from Eagle Day and at 10-20 bucks a connector from them it's about the same price as just going with cannon plugs but nowhere near as nice.
After looking at the diagrams, as far as I can tell, the engine harness can be done with just three different gauges. I haven't looked at it for a few weeks now but it seems like it was 16, 14, and 10 or something like that, I'll have to look at it again. The 16, 14 and 10 gauge are $0.23, $0.37, and $0.82 per foot respectively from Aircraft Spruce who generally seem to be pretty reasonable price-wise. I've got to wait till I finish the current textbook example scope creep first before I start the harness or I think I may be sleeping in the garage under pain of death until the car is on the road again. If you know of anywhere other than Eagleday that can get the timer connectors at a fair price let me know, because as it is even digikey doesn't stock them and that's just plain wrong, they're supposed to have it all.
I need to find a label maker that does heat shrinkable labels too one of these days. That's a lot of wires to bundle unlabeled.
After looking at the diagrams, as far as I can tell, the engine harness can be done with just three different gauges. I haven't looked at it for a few weeks now but it seems like it was 16, 14, and 10 or something like that, I'll have to look at it again. The 16, 14 and 10 gauge are $0.23, $0.37, and $0.82 per foot respectively from Aircraft Spruce who generally seem to be pretty reasonable price-wise. I've got to wait till I finish the current textbook example scope creep first before I start the harness or I think I may be sleeping in the garage under pain of death until the car is on the road again. If you know of anywhere other than Eagleday that can get the timer connectors at a fair price let me know, because as it is even digikey doesn't stock them and that's just plain wrong, they're supposed to have it all.
I need to find a label maker that does heat shrinkable labels too one of these days. That's a lot of wires to bundle unlabeled.
08-18-2005, 11:09 AM
#17
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The big connectors on the dme/klr must be the biggest challenge -- I poked around looking for those once to make a break out box, but gave up quickly.
08-18-2005, 11:13 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by z3bra
For the wire I was looking at Aircraft Spruce. So far for decent glass braid I can't find anywhere local that sells it so I've got the larger diameter stuff for my alternator cable from McMaster-Carr. Waytek's pretty decent if a tad expensive but ordering in bulk from them definitely helps. I hadn't seen Tefzel in their catalog but it's probably worth pricing out. What I need is a good source for the connectors and pins in the U.S. Amphenol Junior Timer stuff is nigh impossible to find other than from Eagle Day and at 10-20 bucks a connector from them it's about the same price as just going with cannon plugs but nowhere near as nice.
After looking at the diagrams, as far as I can tell, the engine harness can be done with just three different gauges. I haven't looked at it for a few weeks now but it seems like it was 16, 14, and 10 or something like that, I'll have to look at it again. The 16, 14 and 10 gauge are $0.23, $0.37, and $0.82 per foot respectively from Aircraft Spruce who generally seem to be pretty reasonable price-wise. I've got to wait till I finish the current textbook example scope creep first before I start the harness or I think I may be sleeping in the garage under pain of death until the car is on the road again. If you know of anywhere other than Eagleday that can get the timer connectors at a fair price let me know, because as it is even digikey doesn't stock them and that's just plain wrong, they're supposed to have it all.
I need to find a label maker that does heat shrinkable labels too one of these days. That's a lot of wires to bundle unlabeled.
After looking at the diagrams, as far as I can tell, the engine harness can be done with just three different gauges. I haven't looked at it for a few weeks now but it seems like it was 16, 14, and 10 or something like that, I'll have to look at it again. The 16, 14 and 10 gauge are $0.23, $0.37, and $0.82 per foot respectively from Aircraft Spruce who generally seem to be pretty reasonable price-wise. I've got to wait till I finish the current textbook example scope creep first before I start the harness or I think I may be sleeping in the garage under pain of death until the car is on the road again. If you know of anywhere other than Eagleday that can get the timer connectors at a fair price let me know, because as it is even digikey doesn't stock them and that's just plain wrong, they're supposed to have it all.
I need to find a label maker that does heat shrinkable labels too one of these days. That's a lot of wires to bundle unlabeled.
Theres several wires in there, the 10 gauge ones actually, that are two wires in one. Ill post a pic in a bit. No shielding or anything like that, its just two separete wires in one.
08-18-2005, 11:17 PM
#20
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In the past, while trying to solder to harness wires, I've noticed that some seem to resist heat much more than others -- had to get out a bigger soldering iron even...
08-19-2005, 02:43 AM
#21
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For the main DME/KLR I don't think it's realistic to redo them completely new (much as I'd like to). New contacts are probably workable though and unless the shells are hosed it'll work. Not like those typically come on and off all that frequently and being inside the cabin area they should be in better shape too.
08-19-2005, 01:17 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by z3bra
Using something that's watertight like a WeatherPak connector
08-19-2005, 02:41 PM
#23
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by z3bra
The 16, 14 and 10 gauge are $0.23, $0.37, and $0.82 per foot respectively from Aircraft Spruce who generally seem to be pretty reasonable price-wise.
08-19-2005, 10:58 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by IceShark
$0.82 a foot for #10? Yikes! You should have told me and I would have gotten you some. I just picked up 1000 feet of white, yellow and brown #10, 105 strand, tinned, with jacket rated to 105C. Looks like all that wire you are talking about has almost a 500% markup from first tier distribution (i.e. the first distributor from factory) which is where I get it. 82 cents is almost what I pay for #1 gauge cable with an EPDM jacket.
For comparison #10 cross-linked polyethylene jacketed automotive wire from Waytek is about $0.24/foot up to 500 feet or it drops to $0.17/foot or less for bigger quantities.
I know it's not going to be cheap to do it this way but I'm trying to build a harness that I won't have to mess with again for a very long time.
08-20-2005, 01:19 AM
#25
Nordschleife Master
WayteK doesn't sell top quality wire. I buy a few things from them that are not in their catalog as I can get a wholesale deal and they just put in the order to the manufacturer, so I know the score on the wire situation. They sell automotive wire. Take a look at the stranding and gauge of the strands. If you think that is good, good luck.
I actually use some Teflon jacketed, E type, stranded and silvered wire in my headlight kit as that is easier to fit through the waterproof relay base seals due to the teflon. And yeah, it is approved by everyone that approves these things. That is rated above 200c. Cost was like 50 cents a foot in 100 foot spools. The copper strands are silver plated, not because of better conductivity or corrosion protection, but tin would melt at temperatures the jacket could withstand. Then you would be to solid core , not stranded. I don't use it for those superior qualities, I use it because it makes assembly go quicker due to the teflon jacket and there is not much wire involved. Pay more for the wire and save on labor.
Teflon silvered wire is sort of funny when you first run across it. Chop some 5" pieces off, which is what I use on the relays, and shake them in your hand or drop them on top of each other. They sound like silver spoons crashing together. Or ring like a little bell.
Trust me, I know wire.
I actually use some Teflon jacketed, E type, stranded and silvered wire in my headlight kit as that is easier to fit through the waterproof relay base seals due to the teflon. And yeah, it is approved by everyone that approves these things. That is rated above 200c. Cost was like 50 cents a foot in 100 foot spools. The copper strands are silver plated, not because of better conductivity or corrosion protection, but tin would melt at temperatures the jacket could withstand. Then you would be to solid core , not stranded. I don't use it for those superior qualities, I use it because it makes assembly go quicker due to the teflon jacket and there is not much wire involved. Pay more for the wire and save on labor.
Teflon silvered wire is sort of funny when you first run across it. Chop some 5" pieces off, which is what I use on the relays, and shake them in your hand or drop them on top of each other. They sound like silver spoons crashing together. Or ring like a little bell.
Trust me, I know wire.
Last edited by IceShark; 08-20-2005 at 01:47 AM.
08-20-2005, 06:53 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by NZ951
I had a ground cleaning surprise myself a couple of months ago, I was cleaning the battery earth mounts in the back and low and behold, I found my old allen key set, and a mars bar... I dont recall ever buying a mars bar, may have been the PO's.
08-20-2005, 07:13 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by NZ951
Holy thread resurrection batman. Sadly I valued my health too much and didnt eat the mars bar. Deep fry??? WTF??? Do people do that?