Okay about the ADJUSTABLE REGULATORS - you DON'T want to use one of the black piece of **** 3 bars - that all the vendors buy from Marren fuel injection. They will gradually lose pressure and if you don't check your pressure you could be in trouble.
THE ONLY ONE TO BUY IS THE BLLET PARAGON ONE. I have had one for years, and it is more that capable of 419 DIN RWHP on the dyno

PS - I will send you the failed black 3 bar adjustable off of my racecar for free, if you want it. It only has about 80 laps on t.

 

People change the FPR when upgrading to Guru or Vitesse chips. These chips require the 3bar frpr.
It is not recommended to run a 3 bar fpr with stock or autothority chips. If you are running rich why would you need more fuel by changing to a 3 bar? What is your setup stock or modified?
Ben

 

Thats a new one on me.I just put one on my car...replacing my adjustable.
Good thing I dont track my car

 

I was ONLY talking about the adjustable ones - I should have been more clear - I changed my post

 

Right now i have stock chips but have turned up the boost on the turbo a bit. I have a a/f ratio gauge hooked up which is red when i first start the car but then is pegged to green while at idle or at WOT. I know that by it running too rich i am losing hp. Since i don't have a fuel pressure gauge, for all i know the faulty fpr could be pumping 4 bars of pressure (i stress don't know!). Since i am going to replace the fpr i didn't know whether to upgrade to the 3 bar which would possibly lean out some of the pressure and also provide a safety cushion because i didn't want to run too lean. I do plan on getting some upgrades but i didn't want to spend 50 plus bucks for a stock fpr and then later on down the road have to spend more money for an upgraded one. I have heard before on suppliers websites where some say to get the fixed 3 bar but then to turn around and have another supplier say don't get the fixed - get the adjustable!
awilson: why are you going from the adjustable to the fixed?

 

TY, since your car is stock, keep the factory 2.5bar regulator. Items to check:

- unplug vacuum hose from FPR, notice any smell/presence of fuel in it. Fuel in line = bad regulator
- If your AFR stays pegged (even first 20-30 seconds after you start car) - unplug regulator from O2 signal you are shorting it.
- Check youe engine temp sensor (front of engine, under manifold). A faulty sensor (always reading cold) causes rich mixture.

Other tests to do, might be harder to try at home:

- Check AFM signal. Should be around 0.7-0.8v at idle. Signal rises when you open throttle.
- You have a bad/leaky injector.. and/or the injector harness is shorting..

Good luck..

 

A vain reason...I didnt like the bulky look of the adjustable so I traded Fast951 my adjustable for a factory 3bar fixed.
Do not install a 3 bar with stock chips, you will be rich everywhere. Chips need to be programmed to run with a specific fuel pressure. With your AF guage installed you should be 'dithering' IE swinging from lean to rich at idle and cruise. It should only be going rich on full throttle.
If its not dithering when warm (closed loop) then something else is wrong, Bad O2 sensor, engine coolant temp sensor or wiring to and from come to mind.
If you were closer, I'd take a look for you, but you are about 4 hours away.

 

Ty did you just add a manual boost control to a stock car?
(Right now i have stock chips but have turned up the boost on the turbo a bit.)
I think this is your problem. A stock car is not supposed to run higher boost!

Buy some vitesse chips with the fixed 3 bar fpr put the wg shims in you should be fine!

 

This is correct, however if the AFR is VERY rich (due to an equipment fault: bad FPR, bad injecto..), the DME will not be able to bring the AFR down so gauge will show Full rich...

 

Good point , thanks