4" exhaust
#31
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Were the cup car 4" exhausts all the way back or did they "step down"? I have to make a correction also; I just looked again at the LR 4" system and it steps UP to 4", not up and down again as I thought - I must've seen that on another system. This setup is actually pretty good from a flow standpoint as the wider pipe at the back creates a lower pressure area closer to the exhaust tip (more volume = lower pressure) and will tend to "suck" the flow along the length of the pipe from the higher pressure areas upstream. I believe this is the principle behind the "cone" pipes that are sometimes seen on motorcycles, some 911s and VW bugs.
#32
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Porsche-O-Phile:
You have a good question there about the Cup Cars and the 4 in exhaust. I honestly dont know if they were a "full" 4 inch. I believe the article didnt go into it if I recall. Maybe if we are lucky, one of the fellow Rennlisters who have a Cup Car can see this and respond? We'll see.
Regarding the LR 4 inch. This is what they say, " This exhaust is made from aluminized coated steel exhaust tubing and grows along it's length from 3", to 3.5", to a full 4" in diameter. Formed with mandrel bends making it free flowing throughout without pinch points and collapsed tubing like the factory system. All tubes are CNC mandril bent in one piece with no seams or sectioning. Welding is limited to flanges and hanger brackets and where we go from 3.5" to 4"."
So I dont know how people keep saying LR is stating it is a "full 4 inch". They don't claim it to be, it's right there in black and white?
And yes, you are right that it does step up and would "suck the flow along the length of the pipe from the higher pressure areas upstream."
You have a good question there about the Cup Cars and the 4 in exhaust. I honestly dont know if they were a "full" 4 inch. I believe the article didnt go into it if I recall. Maybe if we are lucky, one of the fellow Rennlisters who have a Cup Car can see this and respond? We'll see.
Regarding the LR 4 inch. This is what they say, " This exhaust is made from aluminized coated steel exhaust tubing and grows along it's length from 3", to 3.5", to a full 4" in diameter. Formed with mandrel bends making it free flowing throughout without pinch points and collapsed tubing like the factory system. All tubes are CNC mandril bent in one piece with no seams or sectioning. Welding is limited to flanges and hanger brackets and where we go from 3.5" to 4"."
So I dont know how people keep saying LR is stating it is a "full 4 inch". They don't claim it to be, it's right there in black and white?
And yes, you are right that it does step up and would "suck the flow along the length of the pipe from the higher pressure areas upstream."
#33
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News Flash: The source is in my post, if you cared to look.
Originally Posted by fast951
WHAT??? 2:1 backpressure is NOT HIGH??? Where on earth did you guys get this information...
Ideal backpressure (between turbo & head) is 1.2:1 (1.2 exh. : 1 intake).. The limit should be 2:1.. Yes once you exceed 2:1 (2 exh : 1 int) you will be inducing knock and all kind of problems...
Part of the backpressure problem is the exhaust behind the turbo, the main problem is the turbo hot side..
edit: SpecialTool dynoed 405rwhp with a stock/bent/partially clogged exhaust. His backpressure was unacceptable even at 10psi boost. He swapped to a 3" exhaust and freed up the exhaust.. Now at 24psi he has almost ideal backpressure, partially due to the exhaust but the main thing is the turbo...
Ideal backpressure (between turbo & head) is 1.2:1 (1.2 exh. : 1 intake).. The limit should be 2:1.. Yes once you exceed 2:1 (2 exh : 1 int) you will be inducing knock and all kind of problems...
Part of the backpressure problem is the exhaust behind the turbo, the main problem is the turbo hot side..
edit: SpecialTool dynoed 405rwhp with a stock/bent/partially clogged exhaust. His backpressure was unacceptable even at 10psi boost. He swapped to a 3" exhaust and freed up the exhaust.. Now at 24psi he has almost ideal backpressure, partially due to the exhaust but the main thing is the turbo...
#34
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Yes Rob keeps calling it a 4" system when its not. You can equally call it a 3". As much piping is 3" as it is 4". Still no dyno numbers about the exhaust or pressure drop info. I think Mark hit the nail on the head with Rob's followings. He based the decision on the Cup car having a 4" yet he does not even know what sections were 4". And comments that I think the car was faster with 4" from a company selling the exhaust. Not the most convincing position! I am all for these products if they are PROVEN to actually improve performance... NO EVIDENCE of that yet however when the base figures were not known.
#39
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>>>indsey Racing is building up Rob's 3.0 liter monster to try and get as much HP as they can at 15psi of boost. They seemed to be hitting a wall at 350 rwhp.<<<
I'd say they're hitting a wall if they're only at 350RWHP with a 3.0 (a "monster" 3.0 at that... which we could presume to be a highly modified 3.0L).
My 2.5L (modified) made 375RWHP at 15psi (with a 3" exhaust) and an 8V head with stock valve sizes.
TonyG
I'd say they're hitting a wall if they're only at 350RWHP with a 3.0 (a "monster" 3.0 at that... which we could presume to be a highly modified 3.0L).
My 2.5L (modified) made 375RWHP at 15psi (with a 3" exhaust) and an 8V head with stock valve sizes.
TonyG
#40
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Guys, with everyone mentioning the exhaust being 4" (even on cup cars) and as also mentioned it's the turbocharger hot side and downpipe are the MAIN issues.
Obviously, the bigger the hotside, the faster gases flow out, thus less back pressure, also increases lag right?
Now, did the CUP cars come with a FULL 4" exhaust system as in from downpipe to muffler? i doubt it unless they used a different turbocharger (note i do NOT know the details of the CUP car).
So in theory, if you have a 4" or even a 5" exhaust (assuming the actual exhaust starts from the testpipe first and NOT the downpipe) the backpressure would decrease only slightly or maybe even no increase at all since the turbocharger's hotside and downpipe are still 2.5" right?
Obviously, the bigger the hotside, the faster gases flow out, thus less back pressure, also increases lag right?
Now, did the CUP cars come with a FULL 4" exhaust system as in from downpipe to muffler? i doubt it unless they used a different turbocharger (note i do NOT know the details of the CUP car).
So in theory, if you have a 4" or even a 5" exhaust (assuming the actual exhaust starts from the testpipe first and NOT the downpipe) the backpressure would decrease only slightly or maybe even no increase at all since the turbocharger's hotside and downpipe are still 2.5" right?
#41
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Originally Posted by hosrom_951
Now, did the CUP cars come with a FULL 4" exhaust system as in from downpipe to muffler? i doubt it unless they used a different turbocharger (note i do NOT know the details of the CUP CAR
thx
#44
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crap.
just kidding. I would'nt endorse something unless I tested it or have seen dyno charts.
I would have loved to test my 4" exhaust put I did to many changes at once. I still have the original exhaust though. I guess I could do a test when I install the new 2.8 but thats alot of work...
just kidding. I would'nt endorse something unless I tested it or have seen dyno charts.
I would have loved to test my 4" exhaust put I did to many changes at once. I still have the original exhaust though. I guess I could do a test when I install the new 2.8 but thats alot of work...
#45
Race Director
Thats exactly why I dont trust the product, no dyno exact before and after and guesses at psi drops. Thats why I like Powerwerks approach, they are testing and video taping their mods! No more secret turbo crap or magic dust, pure facts and data to back it up. TonyG makes a good point, he is one of the few guys that has experience a truly highly tuned 2.5 (not just bolt-ons). If LR are hitting the wall at 350 on a "monster" 3.0 then I have even less confidence in their products. Heck even Daniel951 hit 350 in a 2.5 with a SFR stage 3 turbo.