Chips: Is there such thing as a "free lunch"?
#31
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The chip will only allow for you to run higher boost. If you install a manual boost controller and run e.g. 15psi, you should see at least 40HP more than stock. This could enable the car to reach redline in 5th and increase top speed.
The only drawback to chip'ing your car and increasing boost is that you will shorten the life of your engine.
The only drawback to chip'ing your car and increasing boost is that you will shorten the life of your engine.
#32
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Originally Posted by schnellfahrer
The only drawback to chip'ing your car and increasing boost is that you will shorten the life of your engine.
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My 951 has 107K km (around 68K miles) and I've been doing everything I can to extend it's engine life! (Mobil1 every 5K km, etc.)
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you can shorten the life of your engine even if you just drive harder on a stock car, so i don't think that argument is valid.
i've got over 177k miles on my car now and it still runs like new.
i've got over 177k miles on my car now and it still runs like new.
#35
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I chipped a 150k+ mile 944 T and drove it for over 50k miles with no problems. The longetivity is a non issue. I've said this before... If you have doubts, do some research... Raising the output of the engine by 20-30% really adds only a minute amount of stress to the components given that detonation is not an issue. This is the same information you will see in turbocharger design/implementation documentation, fored induction engine design books, etc. There are people logging 10s of thousands of miles on internally stock engines making twice the stock power...
Ofcourse there's a compromise but raising peak output is not a significant factor in engine life. You can go to the other extreme and never drive your car, keep it in a climate controlled garage, etc. but if you ever drive the car, and floor it (and enjoy the acceleration), chip the car. Seriously. Power is not what breaks engines. There's another poster @pelican message boards who's had a 350+hp 944 turbo without problems for 50k+ miles. I belive the car's around 150k miles, and has been very heavily tracked for the last 5 years or so...
Ahmet
Ofcourse there's a compromise but raising peak output is not a significant factor in engine life. You can go to the other extreme and never drive your car, keep it in a climate controlled garage, etc. but if you ever drive the car, and floor it (and enjoy the acceleration), chip the car. Seriously. Power is not what breaks engines. There's another poster @pelican message boards who's had a 350+hp 944 turbo without problems for 50k+ miles. I belive the car's around 150k miles, and has been very heavily tracked for the last 5 years or so...
Ahmet
#36
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OK, assuming I were to chip the car. How should I monitor boost? I remember some lengthy discussions in the 951 E-Mail list about MBC versus EBC, etc. Is there any advantage with an EBC when using only chips?
I would like to stay with the stock airbox.
I would like to stay with the stock airbox.
#37
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Luis, I think EBC's are a little too hardcore for your application. You can go with a MBC like the Lindsey or Reliaboost unit and keep the AFM & airbox no problem.
Lets assume you buy a set of DME & KLR chips and a pre set boost controller from X vendor. You can do all the following with nothing but a screwdriver:
Open the DME/KLR box under the passenger foot well, and remove and replace the original chips w/ the new ones.
Then, you simply add the pre-set manual boost controller off the small feed line on the turbo -> intercooler pipe. (You keep the stock AFM and airbox!)
replace the stock Fuel Pressure regulator with the new 3bar unit (which you should get along with your upgrade kit), which can supply adequate fuel for the higher boost level. (very easy... just put a rag under the FPR to catch the fuel)
Now you are set to go. You can monitor your boost level reasonably with the stock boost gauge in the car. At 15psi, it still be just below 2.0 bar.
However, you might not actually be able to hold that psi if your wastegate is old and weak. Even if it isn't, you should still remove the wastegate and shim it. (you will need more than just a screwdriver here...) This will make a noticeable improvement, on top of the chip's already very noticeable difference. You can run around without the shims, but IMHO it is worth an extra 10hp at least when you are running higher boost.
I want to recommend Danno's guru chips because the products are great IMHO. They are excellent for an otherwise bone stock car. I had great dealings with him, although others have not.
Vitesse is the other option. Ask special tool what he thinks of vitesse.
You could also go with the Kokeln chips, but they don't have much of any rennlist presence. which for me is important in troubleshooting. (not that I've had any problems at all with the chips...)
Cheers
Rich
Lets assume you buy a set of DME & KLR chips and a pre set boost controller from X vendor. You can do all the following with nothing but a screwdriver:
Open the DME/KLR box under the passenger foot well, and remove and replace the original chips w/ the new ones.
Then, you simply add the pre-set manual boost controller off the small feed line on the turbo -> intercooler pipe. (You keep the stock AFM and airbox!)
replace the stock Fuel Pressure regulator with the new 3bar unit (which you should get along with your upgrade kit), which can supply adequate fuel for the higher boost level. (very easy... just put a rag under the FPR to catch the fuel)
Now you are set to go. You can monitor your boost level reasonably with the stock boost gauge in the car. At 15psi, it still be just below 2.0 bar.
However, you might not actually be able to hold that psi if your wastegate is old and weak. Even if it isn't, you should still remove the wastegate and shim it. (you will need more than just a screwdriver here...) This will make a noticeable improvement, on top of the chip's already very noticeable difference. You can run around without the shims, but IMHO it is worth an extra 10hp at least when you are running higher boost.
I want to recommend Danno's guru chips because the products are great IMHO. They are excellent for an otherwise bone stock car. I had great dealings with him, although others have not.
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Cheers
Rich
#39
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Another question: how do the chips affect top speed in the 951? Am I wrong to assume that there is a gain in HP but a loss in top end speed?
I've had the needle topped out and pinned on 165mph with quite a few RPMs left to go. If the speedo went higher I'm sure it would have been in the 173mph range.
I'm also well aware that the indicated speeds are about 8-12% higher than the actual ground speeds.
#40
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Originally Posted by Rich Sandor
Thus, your M44/52 engine chipped would have the same top speed as my M44/51 chipped, but yours would get there faster.
#41
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Luis no need to worry, get a good set of chips and a manual boost controller set to 15 psi and you'd be perfectly satisfied!
With good chips at 15 psi there is no need to worry about reliabilty.
My fathers 951 cab is 100% stock with the exception of aftermarket chips, which pretty much is the only thing we want to change on that car. IMHO a 951 cab should look like stock, sound like stock but have 40-50 hp more
With good chips at 15 psi there is no need to worry about reliabilty.
My fathers 951 cab is 100% stock with the exception of aftermarket chips, which pretty much is the only thing we want to change on that car. IMHO a 951 cab should look like stock, sound like stock but have 40-50 hp more
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#42
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Originally Posted by Duke
My fathers 951 cab is 100% stock with the exception of aftermarket chips, which pretty much is the only thing we want to change on that car. IMHO a 951 cab should look like stock, sound like stock but have 40-50 hp more ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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#43
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Originally Posted by Luis de Prat
Oh, so you did chip that car! I only remember you having shimmed the WG. ![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
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#44
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If you are going to chip the car, definately add a boost gauge. No reason not to, the factory one stinks imho. Just keep it in the glovebox (no one will know its there) basically it will be used to make sure you are hitting exactly the boost pressure you want. (ie 15psi no more, no less) for safety.