NZ951

Now I am going to take the car to speed events, I need to address suspension. What are the criteria for the rear suspension to be able to delete the T-bar?

Options?

Jeremy Himsel

A rear coil over kit with a spring rate at least greater then the t-bar rate. I use the escort cup bilsteins with 350lb eibach rear springs. I tossed around several shock combos but the Bilsteins were just a beefier shock then the Koni or HAL equivalent. It's a good idea to change the bushings while you're in there as well.

BTW, I picked them up from Lindsey so it should be an smoothe transaction for you . I believe Pargon is carrying them now as well.

turbite

You also need a special lower shock bolt in the rear that won't sheer with the weight.
I think paragon has them.

Russ Murphy

Are you still going to drive the car on the street Andrew?

NZ951

Yeah still needs to be streetable, the speed events do no warrant a track only car. So the bil cup option would be the way to go? I would def buy from Paragon for suspension... dont trust the other place. I am a suspension newbie though so I need to do some research.

Jeremy Himsel

Get a pic of the bils and koni side by side and you'll see the difference. Now if money is no option, spring for the Leda's or even the Moton's.

NZ951

Jeremy, money is always an option! So its totally dicitated by the rear spring rate? Will that mean a significantly harder ride or equal to the T-bar at a minimum rate of spring?

PS I am off sick today so expect a lot of posts

DanR 1201

Run what you have a number of times. Find out as much as you can about other competitors' cars; their weights, tyres, what spring stiffness they have etc etc for that particular track. Have a friend take lots of photos of your car's atitude on corners. Observe lean, camber change, no wheel lifting. Read up as much as you can about weight transfer and spring compliance, and how to control it to your advantage. Once you have a lot of info you'll be better prepared which way to go and probably save $$$ by not redoing things several times.

Don't know if you've driven on a track before. If not, approach and get some lessons from somebody who excells on the track. Look for the guy who is smooth, probably unexciting but posts quick times. There'll be somebody who will be happy to instruct you. Probably in both his and your car. Don't be overawed and/or disheartened from the passenger seat though, always feels faster when you don't have full control. If you've got access to hire karts do lots of practice. I remember there was a terrific indoor track in South Christchurch a few years ago. Karts are the best way to learn straightline braking and cornering techniques. And most importantly have fun.

Russ Murphy

If you pull the torsion bars all the knowledgeable folks I've talked to recommend replacing the spring plate bushings with something hard like Racer's Edge's delrin bushings or better yet these.

NZ951

Yeah I have been on the track a few times, but want to get into something regular and hone the skills. Damn racers edges stuff is expensive!

PS anyone got a KB fire extinguisher bracket for non electric seat for sale?

jerome951

If you really want to hone your skills on the track, leave your car stock for a few years...

Yes, upgrade stuff is expensive. Take your time and evaluate several options by talking with other people who actually use those products on the track (not people who only use them on the street).

If you're even thinking of using hard bushings and spherical bearings on the street, talk to people who do. They'll likely discourage you from doing it, especially if you only drive on the track occasionally.

Just my US$0.02 (which is worth a little more everywhere else)

NZ951

My car is not quite stock

I really only have two choices, koni or bil cup. Its the spring rates that will need some research.

Dave E

The Biltsteins are stiff and not adjustable. I bit the bullet and paid for the adjustable club sport Moton's so I could still get a reasonably comfortable ride on the street. I use 650# rear springs, and while pretty firm on the street, when I stiffen up the shocks on the track the car really comes alive. I did the Delrin spring plate bushings because the spring plates were rubbing on the housings in turns. They're much cheaper than the polybronze, but if I had it to do over I'd use the polybronze for longevity. The job was a PITA and time consuming. You have to size the housings the bushings go into, (the torsion bar tube and the aluminum outer housing), this took about ten hours. I do think the improvement in handling was worth it, though.

NZ951

You cant adjust the Bilsteins Cup setup?

special tool

No