Lindsey chips????
#1
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Hi all, I'm thinking about buying the lindsey kit which includes chips, a reliaboost, wastegate shim, and fuel pressure regulator. the price for the package is $399.00 Anybody tried the lindsey chips. Just put a new clutch in and fixed some other stuff that has had the car off the road for quite a while. These would be the first mods. and I would appreciate any thoughts on them.
#4
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Keep in mind, you wont need a igher FPR if you get new injectors down the track. Also, the stock injectors are good for 280-290HP. A bosch 3 bar is about $30 and the shims much less. So, you chip set is costing you around $350 in reality. Which is expensive really.
#5
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I would go with the guru or vitesse chips and if you do not want to run the full boost the give out (18 psi?) then get a accur boost and set it down ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I personaly would not want to run 18 psi, manly cause i have the motor out right now and i do not plan on doing that again from to much boost :-p
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I personaly would not want to run 18 psi, manly cause i have the motor out right now and i do not plan on doing that again from to much boost :-p
#6
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Tubox, you would hve only blown if your car was not tuned for the boost, I have been running 18.5+ psi for over a year now... lots of guys run more and are fine. Its all about the tuning.
#7
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I'm just saying running 18 psi with out making some stuff stronger inside the motor (springs, injectors, fpr) puts alot of stress on it.
Edit: How much morse power you getting out of that beast now a days?
Edit: How much morse power you getting out of that beast now a days?
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#8
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I would only be guessing since I have not dyno tuned it since the 60-1 went on... and everything that goes with it. At 20psi, I am guessing 375 at the wheels.
#9
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Lindsey chips are not the only ones out there that 'haven't heard comments' on, there are other vendors (excluding Vitesse, GURU, Welt., Authority and Europroducts) that have chips and never heard comments on.
The bottom line is, try searching (if not done yet) and contact the supplier and ask them anything and everything you want. Then you decide..........come on guys, the chips issue has been covered so many times..........it's getting boring and annoying
The bottom line is, try searching (if not done yet) and contact the supplier and ask them anything and everything you want. Then you decide..........come on guys, the chips issue has been covered so many times..........it's getting boring and annoying
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#10
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Originally Posted by hosrom_951
Lindsey chips are not the only ones out there that 'haven't heard comments' on, there are other vendors (excluding Vitesse, GURU, Welt., Authority and Europroducts) that have chips and never heard comments on.
The bottom line is, try searching (if not done yet) and contact the supplier and ask them anything and everything you want. Then you decide..........come on guys, the chips issue has been covered so many times..........it's getting boring and annoying![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The bottom line is, try searching (if not done yet) and contact the supplier and ask them anything and everything you want. Then you decide..........come on guys, the chips issue has been covered so many times..........it's getting boring and annoying
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#11
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Derek: I meant it in a good way so that this thread doesn't go off
and we are getting new 951 owners/rennlisters daily and i am aware of the fact that they would ask such questions.
Just trying to keep things.....sensible i suppose
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Just trying to keep things.....sensible i suppose
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#12
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Originally Posted by TurboX
I personaly would not want to run 18 psi, manly cause i have the motor out right now and i do not plan on doing that again from to much boost :-p
While I understand your argument our 951 engine's are absolutely built for boost and are very strong. There are plenty of guys running seriously high level's on boost and more imporantly cfm on stock short blocks without much trouble. Tunning is seriously the biggest factor when it comes to motor problems. You could have the greatest parts in the world and not have it tuned properly and still blow up even stronger than stock internals.
I have been running 20+psi for about a year and 8 months.... take away the down time of the car and I am at about a year and a half or atleast 18psi or more without much trouble. My car was professional tuned and I think that along with prevenative maintance is the main reason why I am trouble free.
#13
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When i hear all you guys saying i run 18 psi or 20psi on the street how long do you run at those boost levels, a minute less more?
Yes it's all in the tunning but about the octane requirement to run at those boost levels detonation with lower octane will happen.
You will not be able to run those boost levels at the track with 4-20 minute sessions with 93 octane you will detonate for sure.
Yes it's all in the tunning but about the octane requirement to run at those boost levels detonation with lower octane will happen.
You will not be able to run those boost levels at the track with 4-20 minute sessions with 93 octane you will detonate for sure.
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Pk thats what methanol is for.lol.
I completely agree the street conditions are very very different from the track but, I tell you I run my car hard...I mean hard and it's held up just fine. At the track I would always be more concervative because I would be on boost 90% of the time. I would never run 20psi at the track on pump gas. Thats stupid. I would buy race gas or use water injection. The safetest thing to do if you aren't sure is just to dial it down some. I really want to hit some events next year with race gas and see how the car does.
I asume he is talking about a street car NOT a dedicated track car. If this isint the case then I am sorry about the misinformation. I would never run 20psi at the track without race gas of some sort. Not because I think I will automatically detonate but, because you never would want to take a chance...strange things can happen at the track I have seen it. My car doesn't detonate what-so-ever on 20psi and our motors are built for it. So as long as you aren't trying to boost for 20 minutes striaght I'd say your fine if the car has been tuned for it. I can buy 93 octane at the pump here in texas so maybe my fuel is a little better than yours but, mostly I atribute the car running so well to the tuning.
I completely agree the street conditions are very very different from the track but, I tell you I run my car hard...I mean hard and it's held up just fine. At the track I would always be more concervative because I would be on boost 90% of the time. I would never run 20psi at the track on pump gas. Thats stupid. I would buy race gas or use water injection. The safetest thing to do if you aren't sure is just to dial it down some. I really want to hit some events next year with race gas and see how the car does.
I asume he is talking about a street car NOT a dedicated track car. If this isint the case then I am sorry about the misinformation. I would never run 20psi at the track without race gas of some sort. Not because I think I will automatically detonate but, because you never would want to take a chance...strange things can happen at the track I have seen it. My car doesn't detonate what-so-ever on 20psi and our motors are built for it. So as long as you aren't trying to boost for 20 minutes striaght I'd say your fine if the car has been tuned for it. I can buy 93 octane at the pump here in texas so maybe my fuel is a little better than yours but, mostly I atribute the car running so well to the tuning.
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On the street i run 16 psi same as the track, but with a bit of race fuel added to be safe side.
At the track it is very easy to get heat soak, that's one of the reasons you need higher octane to ward off detonation.
I've had the same HG for the last 3 years plus engine is still running strong knock on wood.
At the track it is very easy to get heat soak, that's one of the reasons you need higher octane to ward off detonation.
I've had the same HG for the last 3 years plus engine is still running strong knock on wood.