Redeye

Well, I finally got around to installing my link 2 after waiting almost 7 months and I have a few issues...

I'm getting fuel now (had to reconnect the airbag computer), but I'm not getting any spark. I'v tried swaping both trigger connectors and still get nothing. Anyone have any ideas as to what I should look at?

Thanks,

Dan

NZ951

Your igniter is hooked up fine?

Redeye

As per the instructions... as close to the coil as possible (about 6 inches away). I'm getting 12+ volts through the old positive coil wire so I know that isn't it.
AGGGG! This is really pi$$ing me off. I was hoping to do some boosting tonight.

NZ951

IIRC the link only uses one of the trigger sensors. I know this because the new fly wheel I got had one lot of crub screws gound off. However, maybe a reference sensor is bung?

Danno

Open the top of the Link-2 box up and you should see a small daughterboard. This decodes the stock flywheel triggers and converts it into a signal the main board is expecting. There's an LED near the center of the daughterboard. While cranking the car, does this LED flash?

Corleone

These switches was not right when I installed my Link 2. After a couple of calls to Performance D I got the right setting and the car started at once.

Redeye

There were two led's. A green one on the mainboard and a red one on the daughterboard. The green one turned on with the power and stayed constant until I switched off the power. The red one turned on for maybe 1/2 a second when power was applied and then maybe 1/2 a second while cranking and then nothing.


What did you have them set at and what do you have them set at now? All of mine are in the off position.


Thanks and keep the info coming!

Dan

NZ951

When you say 1/2 a second while cranking, do you mean it came and went and you were still cranking?

Redeye

Well I just looked at it a little more closely and here is what it's doing...
The green led turnes on and off with power.
The red led turns on for 1/2 a second when I start cranking and then turns on again for 1/2 a second when I stop cranking. Other than that, it's dark.

m42racer

If the Injectors are been triggered you are getting signals. To be sure, check you getting Test RPM readings. If so, the triggering will be correct. Is this a Link Harness or did you wire it yourself. Are all the setting in the configuration correct. Check to see that the Coil is getting +12V. The Coil negitive goes to the Igniter. If you are using a Link Igniter there should be 3 wires. 1 ground, 1 from the Link Ign 1 output and the other to Coil Negitive. You can check the Ign 1 output with a Test Light or LED light. This is a low level signal. BTW, the old coil +12V wire is usually used for ECU switched +12V. Is the Rotor installed?

Redeye

RPM is reading 0 while cranking (wondering if maybe the dip switches are set incorrectly). This is the harness that Performance Developments sells, and the instructions for the ignighter/ignition don't say anything about the old coil negative and there is no where for it to wire into. The way I have it wired now is old coil positive to the wire in the harness labeled "old coil", the ignighter about 6 inches from the coil, and the suppressor mounted between the two with chassis ground. The rotor is installed... the car was running fine before I removed the old harness and installed the new one. I don't think it's getting an rpm signal, or it isn't setup right to interpret them.

NZ951

Well, this may be a long shot, but at least 4 wires on my PD harness were in the wrong assignments. It is possible that something is out. B951S IIRC found a similar issue.

Redeye

Do you remember which wires? I think I have an updated harness but it wouldn't hurt to check.

NZ951

Sorry it was a year ago... ummmm none influenced the triggering though.

m42racer

If you are not getting any RPM, you have a triggering issue, period. The trigger signals are not getting into the ECU. Put a LED light on the Trig 1 input of the ECU and see if you are getting something. Put it on the other Trigger and see if you are getting that one. If not its in the sensor(s). Trig 1 should be on the Ring Gear teeth, and Trig 2 should be on the other sensor. The RPM counter is direct off the sensors.
No RPM always is a sensor or wiring into the ECU problem. Check the connections into the Link on Trig 1 & 2. Check the connections on the sensors. They are known to fail. You stated before you were getting fuel injection. This cannot be if the ECU is not getting any RPM signal. It is not getting turned on. Are you sure you are getting an injection pulse? Or is it a click when you turn on the power. This is normal as the Injector gets +12V and the system grounds as soon as the +12V is applied.
As for the wiring, the "Old Coil" wire gets wired to the ECU +12V wire. If I remember, the wires are marked. The new Coils wires are also marked, I think. You need both triggers. You will count 132 triggers on one and 1 on the other. The single one is the sync. I have no idea where the dip switches should be set. Maybe someone here who has one can tell you where theirs are set. I think all they do is offset the base mechanical timing, but I cannot be sure about this. Best to ask Link about that one. Someone here who has a Link 2 system should be able to help you with the dip switch settings.