Corleone

Yes! One dyno will not be enough! It takes some time to do this. With a wide band you can do the most of it yourself and you can always ask "us" who already has the Link 2. A better way is start tuning yourself and then go to the dyno. Most important is to have a good ignition map, so near the final map as possible to start with, then the fuel is a lot easier to tune.

Corleone

Special tool!

Can you tell me about yur compressor side? Or is it a secret? Whats your exd/ind sizes in mm, 55/76 or 57/6 or something even moore bigger? And what c-house are you running, 0.60 or 0.70 A/R? Ported shroud or not? Is there any benefits for ported shroud or is it a compromise for something? Did you run a 2,5 L?
I´m just about to change my compressor side so I need to collect as much info I can. You can always mail me at: corleone@minmail.net

Thanks!

B951S

On the idle issue, I had the same thing going on. NZ helped me troubleshoot, It turned out the Link harness had the ISV signal wires backwards, so when you were trying to increase idle it would really be closing the ISV and vice versa.

sweanders

Danno here...

[u]"I just have to figure out why my idle is so high. I think I may have hooked up my O2 sensor wrong."[/i]

There is absolutely ZERO adjustments you can make with fuel or ignition that will have a significant impact on idle-speed. The main factor in idle-speed is AIR. Somehow, you're getting enough air for 1800rpm.

J Chen

O.K Guys, please excuse me for this silly question.
When going standalone, do you have to keep the
DME to keep the instrument & warning lights
working ? What about the KLR, is it eliminated ?

Thanks

Corleone

Both eliminated!

J Chen

Hi Corleone,
Thanks but does this apply for all Standalone or
just for the Link ? I did some enquiries & was told
by some that I had to keep the DME inorder for
the intrument cluster to work.

Thanks again

TurboTim

For all stand alones.You will lose your boost gauge when you remove your KLR but you can hardwire in your oil pressure,coolant temp and even the themoswitch for the turbo.The radiator fans are on the chasis harness so they will still work with the DME and KLR removed.

J Chen

Thanks Tim

NZ951

PS I am working with a mate on a device to send a signal to the stock boost gauge to read at +one ATM, so 2 bar will be 29. whatever psi..

J Chen

Hi Guys,
One more question. What about A/C when going stand alone.

Thanks

Redeye

A quick update on the fluctuating idle...
There are 2 orange wires and one yellow wire going to the IAS and I've tried swapping both orange wires (assuming that the yellow is the +12v... I'm going to put a volt meter on them tomorrow after work) and I still have an erratic idle. Even with the IAS disconnected it is the same. I have also tried adjusting the cold and hot idle values with no effect... it is still bouncing between 700rpm and 1800rpm.
Does anyone have any ideas?

Corleone

In the PC-Link at "Idle" and "Idle speed controll" have you set to solenoid? It can not be stepper motor!

Redeye

It's set to solenoid. I'm about out of ideas.

B951S

Have you checked you TPS span? The Link looks for a closed throttle before it goes into closed loop idle. Are you running closed loop lamda? If so I would turn it off as it can sometimes cause this.
Your static ignition should be 10 or 11 degrees.