Link 2 install... no spark... ***UPADATE - RUNNING***
12-11-2004, 06:00 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Redeye
There were two led's. A green one on the mainboard and a red one on the daughterboard. The green one turned on with the power and stayed constant until I switched off the power. The red one turned on for maybe 1/2 a second when power was applied and then maybe 1/2 a second while cranking and then nothing.
What did you have them set at and what do you have them set at now? All of mine are in the off position.
Thanks and keep the info coming!
Dan
What did you have them set at and what do you have them set at now? All of mine are in the off position.
Thanks and keep the info coming!
Dan
Are you sure that the settings in PC program is right? I can give you my pcl file if you give me your e-mail adress.
12-11-2004, 06:04 PM
#17
Originally Posted by m42racer
If you are not getting any RPM, you have a triggering issue, period. The trigger signals are not getting into the ECU. Put a LED light on the Trig 1 input of the ECU and see if you are getting something. Put it on the other Trigger and see if you are getting that one. If not its in the sensor(s). Trig 1 should be on the Ring Gear teeth, and Trig 2 should be on the other sensor. The RPM counter is direct off the sensors.
No RPM always is a sensor or wiring into the ECU problem. Check the connections into the Link on Trig 1 & 2. Check the connections on the sensors. They are known to fail. You stated before you were getting fuel injection. This cannot be if the ECU is not getting any RPM signal. It is not getting turned on. Are you sure you are getting an injection pulse? Or is it a click when you turn on the power. This is normal as the Injector gets +12V and the system grounds as soon as the +12V is applied.
As for the wiring, the "Old Coil" wire gets wired to the ECU +12V wire. If I remember, the wires are marked. The new Coils wires are also marked, I think. You need both triggers. You will count 132 triggers on one and 1 on the other. The single one is the sync. I have no idea where the dip switches should be set. Maybe someone here who has one can tell you where theirs are set. I think all they do is offset the base mechanical timing, but I cannot be sure about this. Best to ask Link about that one. Someone here who has a Link 2 system should be able to help you with the dip switch settings.
No RPM always is a sensor or wiring into the ECU problem. Check the connections into the Link on Trig 1 & 2. Check the connections on the sensors. They are known to fail. You stated before you were getting fuel injection. This cannot be if the ECU is not getting any RPM signal. It is not getting turned on. Are you sure you are getting an injection pulse? Or is it a click when you turn on the power. This is normal as the Injector gets +12V and the system grounds as soon as the +12V is applied.
As for the wiring, the "Old Coil" wire gets wired to the ECU +12V wire. If I remember, the wires are marked. The new Coils wires are also marked, I think. You need both triggers. You will count 132 triggers on one and 1 on the other. The single one is the sync. I have no idea where the dip switches should be set. Maybe someone here who has one can tell you where theirs are set. I think all they do is offset the base mechanical timing, but I cannot be sure about this. Best to ask Link about that one. Someone here who has a Link 2 system should be able to help you with the dip switch settings.
12-11-2004, 06:12 PM
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks everyone! I'll try the switches first, and if that doesn't work, I'll start looking at the speed/reference sensors (I hope it's just the switches).
Corleone, my email is redeye@iqmail.net . I'm using the map that B951S had back in July, but it never hurts to compare.
Thanks again everyone. I'll have an update in a couple of hours...
Dan
Corleone, my email is redeye@iqmail.net . I'm using the map that B951S had back in July, but it never hurts to compare.
Thanks again everyone. I'll have an update in a couple of hours...
Dan
12-12-2004, 01:50 AM
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WOO HOO!!! I'v got a running 951!! THANK YOU CORLEONE! It ended up being the switches. With numbers 2 and 4 in the on position it started, but it ran really rough, like it was only firing on 2 or 3 cylinders. But with the 1 and 3 switches in the on position, it was ideling nice and smooth!! except for the issue below... 
Now I have a high/eratic idle??? It idels around 1700-1800 rpm until it warmes up a little and then it fluctuates between 1000 and 1800 rpm. I was able to stableize it at 1400 rpm when it reached normal temp by reducing the "Idle Hot" in the idle controls menu from 35 to 24. Even then it would not drop below 1400rpm. Any ideas??
AT LEAST IT'S RUNNING!!! Thanks to everyone so far... I love this board!!
Now I have a high/eratic idle??? It idels around 1700-1800 rpm until it warmes up a little and then it fluctuates between 1000 and 1800 rpm. I was able to stableize it at 1400 rpm when it reached normal temp by reducing the "Idle Hot" in the idle controls menu from 35 to 24. Even then it would not drop below 1400rpm. Any ideas??
AT LEAST IT'S RUNNING!!! Thanks to everyone so far... I love this board!!
12-12-2004, 03:36 AM
#23
Race Director
WB or NB?
Basically thats extremely rich. You want almost no fuel at idle. Mine is still rich at 15:1 but I needed to add bandwidth to the injector pulse to get a nice idle with the 850cc.
Basically thats extremely rich. You want almost no fuel at idle. Mine is still rich at 15:1 but I needed to add bandwidth to the injector pulse to get a nice idle with the 850cc.
12-12-2004, 05:28 AM
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by NZ951
WB or NB?
Basically thats extremely rich. You want almost no fuel at idle. Mine is still rich at 15:1 but I needed to add bandwidth to the injector pulse to get a nice idle with the 850cc.
Basically thats extremely rich. You want almost no fuel at idle. Mine is still rich at 15:1 but I needed to add bandwidth to the injector pulse to get a nice idle with the 850cc.
12-12-2004, 06:19 AM
#28
Originally Posted by Redeye
NB. WB is one of the next things on my list. The O2 reading in my previous post was from the PC Link software, I have no idea what that translates into for fuel ratio.
Buy a WB first! I have Innovatives wb, a lot of the pros use this one, works great.
12-12-2004, 07:59 AM
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dont even try to tune with a NB, it can be very expensive.
Buy a WB first! I have Innovatives wb, a lot of the pros use this one, works great.
Buy a WB first! I have Innovatives wb, a lot of the pros use this one, works great.
I just have to figure out why my idle is so high. I think I may have hooked up my O2 sensor wrong.
12-12-2004, 08:41 AM
#30
Redeye - for $270 you can have a complete wideband and datalogger that COMPLETELY eliminates the need for dyno tuning (except for bragging numbers). Then all you do is do a run, look at the data, and adjust your cells. Keep going until you are perfectly tuned - no additional expense. It will cost you THOUSANDS of dollars to get a full standalone tuned with only a dyno.
GET A WIDEBAND FIRST!!!!!!!
GET A WIDEBAND FIRST!!!!!!!