Coil, Clutch Master Cylinder/Slave Cylinder-Long
12-05-2004, 03:03 PM
#1
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Coil, Clutch Master Cylinder/Slave Cylinder-Long
Dear All,
I may have found the problem to my stange boot-cut lately. First of all, this only happened twice in the past month or so, but while cranking it sometimes sounds like the starter is getting chocked, or not getting enough spark ( i know how a failing starter sounds from my experience in the NA starter that died on me).
I also noticed that when the stage 2 fans kick in (high speed), the car stumbles for a fraction of a second, this happens ONLY at idle (again, happed twice within the month).
So, i narrowed down to an ignition problem rather than overboosting-vacuum problem. I took off the coil plug to the dist. and found a couple of things.
1) There seems to be a greenish rust material on both coil (inside) and plug, this is bad right? this is electrical rusting or something?
2) Could a coil cause problems while boosting at ALL? (general question).
3) If i do replace the coil, do i go stock or MSD Blaster 2 Anti-Vibration (which costs the same as the stock, but claimed 'offroad use'????)
Last bit, i found some oil drip stains at the clutch pedal, looks like the master cylinder the shot. Im going to replace that along with the slave cylinder, which i believe also failed/leaking.
Question:
1) If the slave cylinder is leaking at all, COULD it leak onto any part of the rear oil pan? at ALL? i have a very thin film of oil at the rear of the pan, which LOOKS like it's coming from that area.......
2) IF i leave both master and slave cylinder's for the time being, the only effects in the long run would be shifting? or would the clutch/pressure plate or even the flywheel be effected?
TIA and sorry for the long post again
I may have found the problem to my stange boot-cut lately. First of all, this only happened twice in the past month or so, but while cranking it sometimes sounds like the starter is getting chocked, or not getting enough spark ( i know how a failing starter sounds from my experience in the NA starter that died on me).
I also noticed that when the stage 2 fans kick in (high speed), the car stumbles for a fraction of a second, this happens ONLY at idle (again, happed twice within the month).
So, i narrowed down to an ignition problem rather than overboosting-vacuum problem. I took off the coil plug to the dist. and found a couple of things.
1) There seems to be a greenish rust material on both coil (inside) and plug, this is bad right? this is electrical rusting or something?
2) Could a coil cause problems while boosting at ALL? (general question).
3) If i do replace the coil, do i go stock or MSD Blaster 2 Anti-Vibration (which costs the same as the stock, but claimed 'offroad use'????)
Last bit, i found some oil drip stains at the clutch pedal, looks like the master cylinder the shot. Im going to replace that along with the slave cylinder, which i believe also failed/leaking.
Question:
1) If the slave cylinder is leaking at all, COULD it leak onto any part of the rear oil pan? at ALL? i have a very thin film of oil at the rear of the pan, which LOOKS like it's coming from that area.......
2) IF i leave both master and slave cylinder's for the time being, the only effects in the long run would be shifting? or would the clutch/pressure plate or even the flywheel be effected?
TIA and sorry for the long post again
12-06-2004, 04:48 AM
#7
Race Director
Just buy a stock one, you dont run enough boost for it to bother your coil... basically they are concerned with providing a stronger charge to the plugs so the disturbance in the combustion chamber does not blow the spark away.
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12-06-2004, 01:52 PM
#8
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Question is regarding if a coil could effect boost, along with what i mentioned regarding the clutch master and slave cylinders
12-06-2004, 01:58 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Coil wont affect boost but it will affect sparks. Your engine needs healthy sparks the most when you are working it harder so that is when you will spot a problem. Clean the connections and check the resistance (there is a value in the workshop manual). Also check and clean the plug leads rotor and cap. My leads were original and leaking (14 years old) opening the bonnet at night gave a nice display, in a hotter climate I would expect them to detoriate faster.
Tony
Tony
12-06-2004, 02:10 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
Hussam:
Bad or failing ignition components can cause all sorts of problems with how a particular engine runs.
Under high RPM conditions the coil has very little time to store energy between sparks. Add this to faulty plugs and/or ignition wires, and the amount of energy that gets to the plug gap may not be sufficient to properly ignite the fuel/air charge, which results in stumbles, missing and so forth.
Unless the engine is highly modified, I would recommend using stock parts.
As for the clutch hydraulics, you need to get that squared away ASAP. From what you describe both the master and slave cylinders are leaking. The master will leak into the driver side foot well under the dash board, and the slave will leak into the bell housing, and this leak may appear to be coming from the engine.
However, should you discover that the slave is not leaking, then the next suspect after the oil pan gasket is the rear main engine seal.
Bad or failing ignition components can cause all sorts of problems with how a particular engine runs.
Under high RPM conditions the coil has very little time to store energy between sparks. Add this to faulty plugs and/or ignition wires, and the amount of energy that gets to the plug gap may not be sufficient to properly ignite the fuel/air charge, which results in stumbles, missing and so forth.
Unless the engine is highly modified, I would recommend using stock parts.
As for the clutch hydraulics, you need to get that squared away ASAP. From what you describe both the master and slave cylinders are leaking. The master will leak into the driver side foot well under the dash board, and the slave will leak into the bell housing, and this leak may appear to be coming from the engine.
However, should you discover that the slave is not leaking, then the next suspect after the oil pan gasket is the rear main engine seal.
12-06-2004, 03:36 PM
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Charlotte: Thanks, the master cylinder is shot. The pan gasket was replaced ~2 week ago and bone dry all around the sides and from and rear. There is a very think oil leak coming from the rear of the engine bay, but appears to be break fluid (since it is thinner than engine oil, which is what it appears to be).
The rear seal was replaced along with the clutch in May 2001 by the PO, doubting that but WILL check.
Now, just out of curiosity, if i were to be dumb enough and not replace the master and slave cylinders. What would the results be? just shifting problems? chattering clutch, screwing up the clutch?
Mentioning boost was properly not the correct term used. But yes, after some time of high revving, i get that stumble/miss that also feels like an electrical problem. Since the coil was wet and had some gren rust (which i still don't know what it is called, but it is the same green rust material found on electrical component if anyone knows what i am talking about here
). I shall try installing a used coil from my parted NA and see if the problem goes. If it does, a new part would be ordered.
The rear seal was replaced along with the clutch in May 2001 by the PO, doubting that but WILL check.
Now, just out of curiosity, if i were to be dumb enough and not replace the master and slave cylinders. What would the results be? just shifting problems? chattering clutch, screwing up the clutch?
Mentioning boost was properly not the correct term used. But yes, after some time of high revving, i get that stumble/miss that also feels like an electrical problem. Since the coil was wet and had some gren rust (which i still don't know what it is called, but it is the same green rust material found on electrical component if anyone knows what i am talking about here
). I shall try installing a used coil from my parted NA and see if the problem goes. If it does, a new part would be ordered.
12-06-2004, 04:33 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
Green "rust" is actually a form of Copperoxide and is indicative of corrosion forming on items made with copper or copper alloys like Brass, Bronze and electrical wiring. Same thing happens when you wear a copper bracelet/ring.
If you were "dumb enough" to not replace the clutch master and slave, the leak from the master will destroy your carpet (My '86 951 needs new front carpet for this very reason), and eventually you will not be able to drive the car because the clutch cannot be diseangaged for shifting gears.
Brake fluid is "active," in that it attacks paint, so any drips and runs need to be cleaned before the fluid can stip the paint to bear metal.
If you were "dumb enough" to not replace the clutch master and slave, the leak from the master will destroy your carpet (My '86 951 needs new front carpet for this very reason), and eventually you will not be able to drive the car because the clutch cannot be diseangaged for shifting gears.
Brake fluid is "active," in that it attacks paint, so any drips and runs need to be cleaned before the fluid can stip the paint to bear metal.
12-06-2004, 04:41 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by hosrom_951
Charlotte: Thanks, the master cylinder is shot. The pan gasket was replaced ~2 week ago and bone dry all around the sides and from and rear. There is a very think oil leak coming from the rear of the engine bay, but appears to be break fluid (since it is thinner than engine oil, which is what it appears to be).
The rear seal was replaced along with the clutch in May 2001 by the PO, doubting that but WILL check.
Now, just out of curiosity, if i were to be dumb enough and not replace the master and slave cylinders. What would the results be? just shifting problems? chattering clutch, screwing up the clutch?
Mentioning boost was properly not the correct term used. But yes, after some time of high revving, i get that stumble/miss that also feels like an electrical problem. Since the coil was wet and had some gren rust (which i still don't know what it is called, but it is the same green rust material found on electrical component if anyone knows what i am talking about here ). I shall try installing a used coil from my parted NA and see if the problem goes. If it does, a new part would be ordered.
The rear seal was replaced along with the clutch in May 2001 by the PO, doubting that but WILL check.
Now, just out of curiosity, if i were to be dumb enough and not replace the master and slave cylinders. What would the results be? just shifting problems? chattering clutch, screwing up the clutch?
Mentioning boost was properly not the correct term used. But yes, after some time of high revving, i get that stumble/miss that also feels like an electrical problem. Since the coil was wet and had some gren rust (which i still don't know what it is called, but it is the same green rust material found on electrical component if anyone knows what i am talking about here
). I shall try installing a used coil from my parted NA and see if the problem goes. If it does, a new part would be ordered.If you let the clutch hydraulics leak without fixing, you will eventually end up with a clutch pedal the lays flat against the floor board, and will will not be able to disengage the clutch. That fluid also acts as a paint remover, so be careful of that. When you change the master/slave, take the advice and change them together. I didn't and was sorry. Also, check the line that delivers the fluid to the slave itself. It runs down the firewall. It can also leak, especially after a new slave and master are installed. I changed the slave. Then changed the master. Then changes the hydraulic line. There is a lesson in there somewhere...
12-07-2004, 12:01 AM
#14
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Im shooting for overhauling the hydraulic system (Mater/Slave cylinder, intermediate hose, SS brake lines and new ATE Blue fluid. Maybe even look at those pads and finally install a 5/33 bias valve or something).
thanks guys!!
thanks guys!!
