hosrom_951

I wanted to remove the intake manifold to take another look at those vacuum lines since my overboosting situation isn't resolved yet (it actually feels like overboosting as boost builds up at 2,000rpms). Anyways, while trying to do the first allen head bolt on the fuel rail-intake manifold, i shaved the head quite a bit.

It isn't THAT bad, i just can't get a 5mm hex key in anymore. What is the cleanest and proper way to remove it?

Is drilling a must? i tried slightly hammering in a number 6 hex key, but i couldn't get it in properly and i do not want to hammer it in badly and cause other problems.

Any help would be much appriciated, otherwise it looke like tomorrow im taking a trip to my mechanic

Thanks!

UK952

Unlikely to be overboost at 2,000 rpm more likely an ignition problem (leads,rotor,cap, coil).
Tony

pk951

See if you can get a small pair of vice-grips on the head of the bolt give it a try.

hosrom_951

uk951: Check my 'overboosting' thread for details, but yes, i was suspecting something.

pk: I shall see what i could do with the vice-grips

Any other methods i should try?

Gator_86_951

The allen part of the bolt is stripped right? Use an oversized torx bit and a hammer. The torx bit is like start shaped head. Use one that is a little oversize and ram it in with the hammer. It should bite enough to get it out. The bolt will kinda be ruined, but this should take it out. You won't ruin anything as long as you aren't really crazyy with it.

hosrom_951

Ok Gator, will try that.

UK952: I took a lookie at the ignition system, cap + rotor OK, leads OK, plugs OK coil..............

The top is half broken and looking inside i found water, not moister. and green rust.

Looks like time for a replacement i may have found the problem after all

Porsche-O-Phile

I wouldn't try drilling it - the bolt is harder than the surrounding material on the head and you're likely to tear up the head unless you have it stationary with a drill press so you can precisely get the bit directly and solely on the bolt shaft (read: remove the head). Bummer.

*** UPDATE ***

Sorry, just read above that it isn't actually snapped, just rounded out. Yep, use the "bang it in with a hammer" method. I had to do that on the long turbo bolt on the 951 because those bolts are virtually impossible to NOT round out on removal. Bang in the star / torx bit as far into the allen bolt recess as you can otherwise you'll just tear out more metal when you try to twist it (which will likely land in the intake ports or somewhere else you don't want it. . .)

Danno

"Anyways, while trying to do the first allen head bolt on the fuel rail-intake manifold, i shaved the head quite a bit.

It isn't THAT bad, i just can't get a 5mm hex key in anymore. What is the cleanest and proper way to remove it?"

I'm not sure I understand which bolt you're talking about? Is it a bolt that holds the fuel-rail to the cam-tower? Or one that holds the fuel-rail to the head? Or is one of the bolts that hold the intake-manifold to the head?

Eyal 951

Use an ez out, it should make quick work of it!
~Eyal

hosrom_951

Dan, the two allen head bolts for the fuel rail to the cylinder head. the fuel rail to cam tower are 10mm bolts ( i think).

Eyal, what is ez out?

theedge

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...&bidsite=CRAFT

Get those, "Craftsman Bolt-Outs". They are AWSOME. Other manufacturors make these, so you should be able to get something in your area. These are for bolts that still have their heads on, or are rounded, etc. Ez-Outs are less definate ive heard, since you have to drill into the bolt to get them in. These you tap on with a hammer and then use a wrench or a socket on the Bolt-Out.

You should be able to get one onto the manifold to head bolts...

These are the best things for rounded out CV joint bolts too.

z3bra

The bolt outs might be tough to get clearance with in there. I'll second Eyal's advice for socket heads that are just starting to strip out, find an EZ out that'll fit into the socket and then find a small 12 or 8 point socket that fits the EZ out's square sides and use that to take it out, just take it nice and slow and easy.

An EZ-out is a bolt extractor, the kind you drill the inside of the bolt out with and then turn counterclockwise which makes the bolt extractor's reverse threading dig into the bolt. Usually in that application the EZ-Out will snap off instead being harder and consequently more brittle. But for pulling out socket heads that are too stripped to use a hex key in any more I've never broken one.

If you don't mind spending a little extra $20 US or so, switch the allen bolts over to studs. Much easier to take the intake off and put it back on that way. The gaskets stay lined up and it's a better deal all around. Just measure the studs so they are sufficiently long enough that you get them threaded into the head about the same as the old bolts did, and then make sure that you get them long enough to allow the thickness of the flange on the intake, a washer and a nut and still have a couple of threads protruding from the top of the nuts when they're tightened.

**edit** I thought you mean the allen bolts holding the intake on instead of the fuel rail bolts. The EZ out will still work fine to remove them, but the fuel rail isn't a good application for a stud like the intake itself is. It might not be a bad idea though to drill out the existing holes and put some thread repair inserts in preemptively in both the cam cover and possibly even the intake itself depending on how clean you can keep it so it doesn't get metal shavings in the engine.

special tool

Okay in case any one is confused - there are NO bolts from fuel rail to head.
There are 2 bolts holding rail to manifold, and 2 bolts holding rail to cam tower.

Danno

Sorry, looked like the fuel-rail bolted to the head, but actually to the intake-manifold. I'd skip trying to remove the bolts, just drill them out and the fuel-rail will then come right off. Then you can use some vice-grips on the remaining stub of a bolt.

Tom M'Guinn

Options I have used (with all due shame):

EZ Out
JB Weld an alan key in there (make sure you can turn it)
Chisel a notch on side and hammer it out c-clockwise
Chisel off head
Hammer a slightly smaller socket over the whole head
Drill off head
Vice grips
Hammer over-sized torx bit in there
Drill hole through head sideways, and turn it out with an awl