KuHL 951

These things have saved my A$$ 3 times now with stripped out heads. They are by far the easiest removal tool yet and Sears will replace them if they break if for instance you have to really drive one on to get a tight fit. Go for the big set, it will cover about anything on a Porsche.

jaycm

the fact that there two different types of metal (aluminum and steel) together, is always trouble. be sure and use a good penetrating oil and let is "work" for a while before trying to remove the bolt. i always use some type of antisieze on bolts upon reassymbly when it is not forbidden.

hosrom_951

I read an article in a previous edition of 911 & Porsche world magazine. They showed detailed steps (with pics) on replacing the steering rack, the covered/coated some items with copper base grease just incase they go back and redo the job.

Point is, after removing ALL the allen bolts, would it make sense to apply a thin coat of copper base grease? same applies to any other bolt/stud/nut that get's removed?

jaycm

yes, but not on all bolts. do not use any on internal engine bolts...eg..mains, rods, etc... or any head bolts. the stuff will indeed alter the torque values (a little).
it only takes a drop of the stuff. i would not use a "thin coat", just a spot on one side of the threads will work it's way around all of the threads. do not use a lot. i use it on external bolts or bolts and/or nuts that are subjected to excess heat or the elements of nature. which covers just about all of them.
it is called anti-sieze or never-sieze. and is a copper based lubricant.

hosrom_951

Jay: Well obviously i was not thinking of internal components. Now im clear on how to apply anti-sieze to the bolts.

TIA

BTW, i still didn't try to remove that stripped allen head yet , too cold and dark outside (not to mention late) and i don't want to wake up the neighbours