update on all issues w/my 951
11-22-2004, 12:54 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
update on all issues w/my 951
Well an update on various issues and where I'm at with my almost 2 year old e-bay disaster 951.
As always - the people on this site have been awesome. The reponse time is incredible.
Fuel pump issue I posted yesterday:
I jumped the DME relay and that did the trick but I'm not sure if that's the ultimate test. I hope that's all it is and it's not ignition related. Best place to get one? I see Lindsey sells them for $22.
In an unrelated story. I was test driving the car after ditching the muffler and installing the Tial and I suddenly heard a pop. The car didn't run so well and when I started driving it back home no boost (zero-nada-zip)!
If I had a gun my car would be full of holes. I limped it home and voluntered to go shopping with my wife - anything to keep me from inflicting a lot of damage to my car. After dinner I reluctantly go out to the garage and open the hood. I'll end my long story here and tell you an intercooler pipe popped off. back on - we're boosting again. Thank god. 
Left on the laundry list:
Fix / replace:
alternator -makes horrific noise.
power steering pump (leaking) and belt.
ditch A/C while I'm working on alternator
get new MAF kit most likely ditching my Huntley set up and ARC2
find out where this oil is coming from - multiple locations. Eclou feels pretty strongly that this is caused by not having the crank case venitilation hooked up to intake J-tube.
seal/fix leaks that I find
get vacuum line from 2nd port in the tial to another vacuum line up top.
install better boost controller
get alignment
fix instument lights
get boost gauge mounted somewhere - floating around under stereo right now.
All of this just to get to it "drivable"
nice things after that :
get low oil light sender fooled so I can get the warning off my dashboard.
rewire seat belt warning system-light stays on with seat belt on. My fault. Part of Recaro install.
get rear speakers installed so i can stop listening to just the front ones.
find out why my drivers side mirror doesn't stay put and sometime does what the power motor tells it.
Fix sunroof so it actually opens.
fix foglight. The screw just keeps spinning when I try to take it out.
replace right headlight. only low beam works.
Then the cosmetic stuff.
get 3 dozen various dings out
install vented nose panel, splitter, GT rear bumper- paint all of those.
Then wheel / suspension / track stuff.... Hard to imagine getting here, but I haven't given up yet.
As always - the people on this site have been awesome. The reponse time is incredible.
Fuel pump issue I posted yesterday:
I jumped the DME relay and that did the trick but I'm not sure if that's the ultimate test. I hope that's all it is and it's not ignition related. Best place to get one? I see Lindsey sells them for $22.
In an unrelated story. I was test driving the car after ditching the muffler and installing the Tial and I suddenly heard a pop. The car didn't run so well and when I started driving it back home no boost (zero-nada-zip)!
If I had a gun my car would be full of holes. I limped it home and voluntered to go shopping with my wife - anything to keep me from inflicting a lot of damage to my car. After dinner I reluctantly go out to the garage and open the hood. I'll end my long story here and tell you an intercooler pipe popped off. back on - we're boosting again. Thank god. Left on the laundry list:
Fix / replace:
alternator -makes horrific noise.
power steering pump (leaking) and belt.
ditch A/C while I'm working on alternator
get new MAF kit most likely ditching my Huntley set up and ARC2
find out where this oil is coming from - multiple locations. Eclou feels pretty strongly that this is caused by not having the crank case venitilation hooked up to intake J-tube.
seal/fix leaks that I find
get vacuum line from 2nd port in the tial to another vacuum line up top.
install better boost controller
get alignment
fix instument lights
get boost gauge mounted somewhere - floating around under stereo right now.
All of this just to get to it "drivable"
nice things after that :
get low oil light sender fooled so I can get the warning off my dashboard.
rewire seat belt warning system-light stays on with seat belt on. My fault. Part of Recaro install.
get rear speakers installed so i can stop listening to just the front ones.
find out why my drivers side mirror doesn't stay put and sometime does what the power motor tells it.
Fix sunroof so it actually opens.
fix foglight. The screw just keeps spinning when I try to take it out.
replace right headlight. only low beam works.
Then the cosmetic stuff.
get 3 dozen various dings out
install vented nose panel, splitter, GT rear bumper- paint all of those.
Then wheel / suspension / track stuff.... Hard to imagine getting here, but I haven't given up yet.
11-22-2004, 01:01 AM
#2
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sounds like you have a handful to do. Just one step at a time. Good luck with all that, if you need a hand let me know. Also, if you have the Arc setup, could you read this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/171143-car-starts-then-dies-right-away-what-could-it-be.html
Any help would be awesome...im without a car right now...yeah anyways, sorry for the OT. Good luck!
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/171143-car-starts-then-dies-right-away-what-could-it-be.html
Any help would be awesome...im without a car right now...yeah anyways, sorry for the OT. Good luck!
11-22-2004, 01:28 AM
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Lindsey's as good a price as any for DME relay. It sounded to me that that was your problem, it should solve it.
I know the "pop, <oh $#&*>" feeling of a pipe blowing off, mine does it too at times. Clean well with denatured alcohol both the coupler inside and the pipe outside, and use a good clamp (spring loaded t-bolt for the really tough connections like TB).
My right headlight is low-beam-only as well for the time being. Try swapping the left/right bulbs first to see if it's internal filament, otherwise there's wiring gremlins.
Sam
I know the "pop, <oh $#&*>" feeling of a pipe blowing off, mine does it too at times. Clean well with denatured alcohol both the coupler inside and the pipe outside, and use a good clamp (spring loaded t-bolt for the really tough connections like TB).
My right headlight is low-beam-only as well for the time being. Try swapping the left/right bulbs first to see if it's internal filament, otherwise there's wiring gremlins.
Sam
11-22-2004, 01:55 AM
#4
Race Director
I paid $19 for my relay, so they are not far off... my IC pipes blew off all the time also till I put some T-bolt clamps on. Be careful doing it on the stock connectors though, they dont seen to clamp well on them.
11-22-2004, 02:19 PM
#6
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I know you want your boost, but I'd focus on the "show stopper" types of basic mechanical issues before messing around with trying to get the boost working. Putting more power through an engine that is "limping along" is only going to break more things. I'd focus on the alternator, power steering pump and chasing down the vaccum and other leaks.
It's awfully embarrasing when your nice high-powered car is dead in your driveway because of a dead alternator that you could have fixed instead of tweaking out the turbo system - one way you get a car that runs, the other way you get a car that doesn't run.
As far as the power steering pump - is it leaking from the rack or from the hoses / connections? If it's the former - expect an expensive re-seal job or new rack. If the latter, it might be a simple matter of replacing the lines. FWIW, virtually all the 944s / 951s I've seen have some sort of fluid seepage from the power steering fluid reservoir or the plumbing coming off it. Mine was a pain to get cleaned up and not seeping, but it can be done for cheap as long as the rack is good.
If the pump itself is going, consider leaving the belt off for a while - I'd only do this is you don't mind having "manual steering" only and you're planning on replacing the pump within a month or two. I believe leaving the system disconnected like that can cause more harm in the long run due to lack of oil flowing through components. Make sure the belt is properly tensioned if everything else is running properly.
As far as oil leaks - most turbo cars have them. Check obvious spots - oil pump, oil return & supply lines to turbocharger, oil dipstick (likes to "pop out" of the block hole), connection between the oil/air separator & filler neck & block and of course the oil pan gasket. As far as vaccum leaks - I can tell you from personal experience that they're a pain to chase down. I'd suggest getting a hand vaccum pump (I got one from autozone for about $40) and checking every single vaccum line one at a time. For the big ones (under the intake) pull off the intake and inspect them. Those lines get VERY brittle and prone to failure / cracking over time. I bet you'll end up replacing at least a couple of them.
Best of luck to you. I know the frustration as I recently went through it but you can learn a lot from the experience (and frustration) of this and benefit from it. Been there done that! Stick with it!
It's awfully embarrasing when your nice high-powered car is dead in your driveway because of a dead alternator that you could have fixed instead of tweaking out the turbo system - one way you get a car that runs, the other way you get a car that doesn't run.
As far as the power steering pump - is it leaking from the rack or from the hoses / connections? If it's the former - expect an expensive re-seal job or new rack. If the latter, it might be a simple matter of replacing the lines. FWIW, virtually all the 944s / 951s I've seen have some sort of fluid seepage from the power steering fluid reservoir or the plumbing coming off it. Mine was a pain to get cleaned up and not seeping, but it can be done for cheap as long as the rack is good.
If the pump itself is going, consider leaving the belt off for a while - I'd only do this is you don't mind having "manual steering" only and you're planning on replacing the pump within a month or two. I believe leaving the system disconnected like that can cause more harm in the long run due to lack of oil flowing through components. Make sure the belt is properly tensioned if everything else is running properly.
As far as oil leaks - most turbo cars have them. Check obvious spots - oil pump, oil return & supply lines to turbocharger, oil dipstick (likes to "pop out" of the block hole), connection between the oil/air separator & filler neck & block and of course the oil pan gasket. As far as vaccum leaks - I can tell you from personal experience that they're a pain to chase down. I'd suggest getting a hand vaccum pump (I got one from autozone for about $40) and checking every single vaccum line one at a time. For the big ones (under the intake) pull off the intake and inspect them. Those lines get VERY brittle and prone to failure / cracking over time. I bet you'll end up replacing at least a couple of them.
Best of luck to you. I know the frustration as I recently went through it but you can learn a lot from the experience (and frustration) of this and benefit from it. Been there done that! Stick with it!
11-23-2004, 11:38 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Kesepton - $7k. Did not know the issues at the time and no PPI. It's a long story but the purchase process took some wild turns. That being said, some of my issues might be self inflicted - again more long stories. If you're thinking about buying one make sure you have some extra cash ($1k to $2k) laying around even if you buy a mint car with all major recent service done.
Thanks Jeff, my to do list above it in priority, so that power steering and alternator issue is right at the top! ;-). No vaccum leaks - just need to run a line from my new Tial that I installed. The P/S belt is off for now and last night learned my alternator is fine and in fact my crank pulley is very loose. I can grab the alternator pulley and move the belt back and forth by hand!
Thanks Jeff, my to do list above it in priority, so that power steering and alternator issue is right at the top! ;-). No vaccum leaks - just need to run a line from my new Tial that I installed. The P/S belt is off for now and last night learned my alternator is fine and in fact my crank pulley is very loose. I can grab the alternator pulley and move the belt back and forth by hand!