Car starts....then dies right away...what could it be?
#1
Rocket Scientist
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Car starts....then dies right away...what could it be?
Hey,
Last night I installed a ton of things on my 87 turbo. Including, maf, 75lb, wastegate, exhaust, boost controller, chip...yeah so i should have done one at a time to rule things out but I was in a rush. So I try to start my car and it dies. I just replaced the TPS. I am pretty sure all vac lines are hooked up. I had to ghetto fab the inlet of the turbo to maf cus I didnt have the correct 3inch to 2.25 inch connector. THat is coming. So I went to menards, picked a 2inch to 3inch and smushed it on, then I had to double up the 3inch side, my maf didnt seem to be a full 3inch. So I added a type of insulator between the maf and connector. I know this is what you really think would cause my problem but I honestly dont think so. I tightened down the clamp and it seemed real solid, but it could be it. So I really dont know what it could be. All my vac lines are in order. Im a bit confused here and could use any help as to why it is doing this. It just starts up to the 1k-800rpms then right when it gets there it drops back down. Sounds fine, it just dies. Thanks!
Last night I installed a ton of things on my 87 turbo. Including, maf, 75lb, wastegate, exhaust, boost controller, chip...yeah so i should have done one at a time to rule things out but I was in a rush. So I try to start my car and it dies. I just replaced the TPS. I am pretty sure all vac lines are hooked up. I had to ghetto fab the inlet of the turbo to maf cus I didnt have the correct 3inch to 2.25 inch connector. THat is coming. So I went to menards, picked a 2inch to 3inch and smushed it on, then I had to double up the 3inch side, my maf didnt seem to be a full 3inch. So I added a type of insulator between the maf and connector. I know this is what you really think would cause my problem but I honestly dont think so. I tightened down the clamp and it seemed real solid, but it could be it. So I really dont know what it could be. All my vac lines are in order. Im a bit confused here and could use any help as to why it is doing this. It just starts up to the 1k-800rpms then right when it gets there it drops back down. Sounds fine, it just dies. Thanks!
#2
Three Wheelin'
Check you MAF electrical connections. Are you adjusting the fqs switch for the injectors? Do you have an afr guage? You can pressurize the intake system with an air compressor and a fuel filter trick. Try starting with the O2 sensor unplugged. It would be a random failure, but these are the symptoms of one going bad.
My real guess would be wiring or a vacuum leak.
My real guess would be wiring or a vacuum leak.
#3
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how do i check the fqs? Is it located on the dme? i know what it does but how do I know it is in the first, second, third, etc position? I had autothority chips, just switched out the dme for guru 18psi ones tthat were made for my 75bl. thanks
#4
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#6
Three Wheelin'
Just rotate it all the way counter clockwise as you look directly at the surface with the hole in it. That will be the lowest position, 0 or 1, whatever. Then rotate clockwise to the correct position. A golf tee filed to have 3 sides works best for me, but sometimes I use a phillips screwdriver that is correctly sized. Good Luck!
#7
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Check for a vacuum leak. You removed a lot of connections and in the heat of reassembly, it's easy to forget to tighten one of the clamps or to get a hose misaligned. Check the easy stuff first, then move on.
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#9
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Do I have to have the arc 2 wired up for the maf to work? Cant I run the maf without the controller??? And by the power source, what do you mean, I connected all the wires to splice in the plug for the new sensor. I dont remember any power source. Thanks for all the info guys.
#10
Three Wheelin'
I've never dealt with a SFR maf before, but most maf conversions for our cars have a wiring harness that plugs into the stock afm harness. Since the MAF uses a hot wire to determine the amount of air taken into the engine, it also requires a +12v source that's not in the stock wiring harness to power the sensor. As a result, there is usually a long, red wire coming out of the sensor that needs to be connected to +12V in addition to the harness. Again, I might be way off since I've never dealt with a SFR maf.
#12
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Can you explain what you have hooked up? With my Huntley set-up (which I believe but am not certain is similar to the SFR), there is essentially no way to run the MAF without the ARC2, because the ARC2 drives the MAF and also sends the signal to the DME. How are you powering your MAF without the ARC2? What connections did you make?
#13
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I have the maf just spliced into the factory harness right at the sensor. In other words, I cut off the factory plug and put on the one that goes with the kit. I also have the chip to run it. I have not put the arc 2 in thinking that I could run the maf without it and just use the chip. I obviously thought wrong. They way I think it is supposed to go is with the maf hooked in like I have it. But then at the dme to have the arc 2 splice into the dme with the same lines as the maf..but i dont have the installation instructions nor do I know where to find them...
#14
Race Director
The MAF requires a +12v supply line. What you can do is cut the +5v output from the DME going to the AFM, and splice in a +12v supply from one of the other wires on the harness. You end up needing 5 wires, and there's only 4 in the harness and connector.