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Replacing dead cycling valve

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Old 11-06-2004, 01:20 AM
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mroberts
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Default Replacing dead cycling valve

I think I've narrowed down my bost problem to a dead cyclingvalve - 12V across th eterminals wont make it click (except for a couple of times afer I hit it). Unless I'm mistaken, these things need power in order for you to hold boost, so they fail safe.

This means I either need to get a new cycling valve, or another boost controller. Replacing the CV in situ seems to be a PITA - having to take off the intake doesn't soudn like fun.

How much do they cost ? I haven't found them anywher eyet.

How well do MBC's work with the stock (shimmed) wastegate ? Is that a viable option ?
Old 11-06-2004, 01:40 AM
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Sam Lin
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Yes, get an MBC, it'll be your best option for low cost.

Sam
Old 11-06-2004, 02:18 AM
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Magown
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Ditto
Old 11-06-2004, 10:06 PM
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Cyrus951
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Here's the link to purchase one, only $39.
Reliaboost-1 MBC:
http://gururacing.net/ReliaBoost1.html
Old 11-07-2004, 05:03 AM
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chris951
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I totally eliminated my CV cause with a LBE or a Reliaboost it can cause boost spikes, plus it makes the lines simpler under the intake. The little plastic nipples kept on breaking off on mine so I said screw it and deleted it.



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