Corleone

Hello J Chen!
It would be nice to know how your Garret spool and boost. If you drive at 3:th gear from 1500 rpm and hit the floor, what boost do you se at 2000, 2500, 3000, 3500, 4000, and 4500 rpm?
I also would be interested of your turbo size, what hot side do you have? My hotside is a wheel wich measure 2,36/2,17" (trim 84) in a A/R 0.61 house. What is yours? And in the same way, how is your compressor?

87Porsche951

Can you get GT Series w/water-cooling?

J Chen

Matt, go GT30 for 400 rwhp.

87 Porsche 951, GT's are all oil & water cooled.

Corleone, Can't give you the numbers now cause the car
is not properly tune yet. But I can say that the boost threshold
comes very early. In third gear I see .5bar of boost at 2100rpm.
Once properly tune I'm sure I can see 18 psi by 3000-3300 rpm.
The power delivary is very linear almost no lag just like driving
a car with a big engine. The hot housing is base on the T25 &
I'm running a .82 AR. I forgot the exact dimensions of the turbine
wheel but I remember when compare to a K26/6, the major is
smaller by 1mm while the minor is the same but the height of
the turbine is taller. The cool side is a TO4S with 4 inch intake
with .70 AR. Wheel trim is 48. Many people have said that the
GT25TO4S is not suitable for the 2.5L engine but after my install,
I can say that they're wrong. If you're looking for big hp go GT30.
The best that I know is the HKS 3037S but if you want very good
low end & mids go GT25R. I expect to see 330-350 rwhp at 18 psi
when I'm done with the tuning. In my opinion, I think a properly
set GT25 turbo will eat alot of guys running a big turbo on a 2.5
for breakfast.

Corleone

Thanks! If you have your wheel dimensions somewhere, for both hot/coldside so please let me know. For myself it looks like this for now in 3:rd gear from 1500 rpm and up:

Rpm Boost
2000 3
2500 7
3000 13
3200 17
3500 19
3700 20

I have not lower my ignition at the time before the turbo beginns to make boost, probably I will try to tune this when I´m moore ready with the rest of the mapping. I think that moore important is when you gear down you have imeadiatly acces to full boost and quick spoolup! If I drive at 4000 rpm and hit the floor I have full boost in notime. Same thing between gears.
Today I logged with my Link 2 and for the first time I had 80-85% dutytime with my 72 lbs/h injectors. Going in the right direction...

Matt H

J chen thanks for the advice. I did not know they were all oil and water cooled.

NZ - it was like 189 IIRC, you can ask Pauerman about it for sure. The 90 Deg AN fittings are very expensive. I dremeled off the damper and cleaned it up with a file, you would almost never know it was there.

Derek, read it but I had a VERY bad day today so I am going to have to pass, any time you want to come over and work on the car you are welcome.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

mrfixit951

This week I think I am going to order a Garrett GT32 non ball bearing turbo. Precision Turbo (www.precisionturbo.net) offers the GT center section and wheels, but with their covers (T04B or T04E). They offer one with a T3 flange that I believe will bolt up to our downpipe. www.pagparts.com then resells this turbo for $640, about the price of a K27 conversion.

Ben

Edman951

I'm runing a GT3037 turbo just like this one with a .63A/R turbine housing.
http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gagt56tr.html

You can see my intalled post here.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/133034-gt30r-installed.html

You can see a few video of it in this post
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ighlight=gt30r

And here a video of it doing 0 to a little over 100mph.
http://sites.vwsport.com/944turbo/GT30R0-100.wmv
You can't hear the turbo much since i'm running my wastegate to the atmophere.
Also i hit the rev limiter because its only at 6250rpm.

If your looking into buying a GT turbo get this one
ATP's GT3071R
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GRT

Edman951

mrfixit951,
The only part of a 4 hole T3 turbine (T31) that is bolt-on to our car is the 2.5'' turbine outlet.
But you will still have to get the cross over pipe modified and the turbo mount. Check out the link to my install post above.

mrfixit951

Edman951,

I realize that I will have to modify the crossover pipe. I probably will end up modifying the motor mount in the same manor you did. What are the thread sizes for the oil/water lines?

Any tips will be appreciated.

Ben

Edman951

Water line are 14mm, you will need to make up some new line.
I don't know for sure the oil feed threads on the turbo.
I think they are 7/16-24 inverted flare. This type of threads are used on brake line.
Check out www.atpturbo.com for some install parts.
Get the GT turbo install kit. It save on running around for fittings.
You will need to make up a oil feed line.
I used the factory male banjo bolt, but got a new SS hose made with a new female banjo. I got the hose made at a local hydraulic hose shop.

Edman951

Ben,
I think that the GT325?E turbo that PPT sells are T04E 51 trim, 55 trim or 57 trim turbo's with the GT32 turbine wheel.
You should find out more about them before you buy.

J Chen

mrfixitit 951 : better listen to Edman on this. Fooling
around with compressor housing that is different form
the original specs can cause the flow characteristic of
the turbo to change. Sometimes for better but most
for worse especially if you're talking about the GT series.

Corleone : When post info once I get it. Hey, you running
a sleeve block 3L right ? How's the engine running now ?

Edman951: How's the tuning coming along ? I've solve my
vacuum leak. Thanks to Laust on his posting. Turn out that
my TB was leaking real badly. Am waiting for Danno to send
me a remap chip before I do my final tuning.

Corleone

No, I have "only" a stock 2,5 bottom...!

NZ951

I still want that intake! Gee it looks good. Did you ever get flow data on it?

Corleone

No, I have no data but my friend who is a flow enginier and who has ported my head, tested it in their flowbench and he told med that it flow moore than the head ever will flow. From their engine dynos of engines to the top motors and also to one of the biggest car producer in Sweden (wich they developed parts of and done the dynos) he told me that its moore important to have shorter runners to avoid pulsation because its moore to gain by that than to have one wich with the pulsation will gain a few hp´s. Its also much easier to do the mapping. The runners need to be shorter to get the engine run great at high revs. I think that most of us will drive our cars with/at boost and once again the shorter rods is then most important. My car runs great at higher revs and I have revd 7500 rpm but with only 14 psi.
Still mapping and waiting for some parts, I´m going to do a "Rototest" and then I let you all know the numbers! See: http://www.rototest.com/index_real.htm