Raceware head studs torque specs
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09-03-2004, 06:49 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Konstantin:
Cannot help you with that, but the Raceware specs are the same as the factory prior to the turning angle torque method they went to at some point.
Cannot help you with that, but the Raceware specs are the same as the factory prior to the turning angle torque method they went to at some point.
09-03-2004, 07:11 PM
#9
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ARP are similar but installed with a small amount of red loctite. Raceware recommends pipe dope.
ARP - 25 then 45, then 60 or 65 can't remember but I have the sheet in my toolbox, sit overnight, then re-torque the next day to the last value, to see if the head gasket has compressed any. No re-torque after heat cycle unless you want to.
ARP - 25 then 45, then 60 or 65 can't remember but I have the sheet in my toolbox, sit overnight, then re-torque the next day to the last value, to see if the head gasket has compressed any. No re-torque after heat cycle unless you want to.
09-03-2004, 07:19 PM
#10
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I think arp recomends to torque lose and retorque the studs for at leas three times before you install the head gasked.
I am not sure which Value is the right one for this "break in" If it is to low the streching will not work. If it is to high the studs will be permanent stretched.
I think they are 11 mm thick
I want to install them on a 3 L block with a2.7L head and found out that they rae a littlöe longer than the original studs. So i may cut a thread into the block if it is not enough
Konstantin
I am not sure which Value is the right one for this "break in" If it is to low the streching will not work. If it is to high the studs will be permanent stretched.
I think they are 11 mm thick
I want to install them on a 3 L block with a2.7L head and found out that they rae a littlöe longer than the original studs. So i may cut a thread into the block if it is not enough
Konstantin
09-04-2004, 12:22 AM
#11
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Konstatin....are you using the 968 Spec length's? If so, you might compare the stud length for a 2.7NA motor - this may be a critical dimension.
Just a thought...
Just a thought...
09-04-2004, 07:08 AM
#12
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no the 968 lenhth do not fit the yare too long. I use some from ARP which are sepcific for the 2V head and the 3 L Block. No cheap but they are good!
They are a little longer than the stock one and they have about 1.5 cm longer thread on the bottom. so they would grab full in the block and you can use more clamping force if you want etc etc.
The bottom is as deep as I ned but I do not know if the last 1,5 cm has a thread or not. if not I must cut a new thread on the bottom of the block.
Konstantin
(a lot of work to make a 3 L engine)
They are a little longer than the stock one and they have about 1.5 cm longer thread on the bottom. so they would grab full in the block and you can use more clamping force if you want etc etc.
The bottom is as deep as I ned but I do not know if the last 1,5 cm has a thread or not. if not I must cut a new thread on the bottom of the block.
Konstantin
(a lot of work to make a 3 L engine)
12-23-2014, 06:09 AM
#13
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Also what thread sealant is best suited for bolt to block thread?
I am thinking Loctite 576 low strenght slow curing should work and if I ever have to remove bolts it would not be as painful as with factory glue.. ( http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/576-EN.PDF )
What do you think?
Last edited by Voith; 12-23-2014 at 06:25 AM.
12-23-2014, 06:27 AM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Just send an email to Raceware, they will reply very soon.
Ow wait.. Just found them in my mailbox from them:
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS RWE-1011 944/944T HSK
PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION.
Correct installation is important for proper results. Remove original head studs by double nutting and backing out. The original studs may have a locking compound applied. We recommend heating the engine block thread area to soften this compound and expand the aluminum. To prevent removal of heat treat, Do Not Exceed 250 degrees F., actual metal temperature. Once the stud backs out a half turn or so, apply a small amount of oil to the thread area and work the stud in and out to lubricate the threads and prevent galling on removal.After cleaning the cylinder head and block deck per the factory service manual, clean all head stud holes in the block with a 12 X 1.50mm tap and compressed air if possible. (Be careful not to allow debris to enter any other area of engine.) Peel the protective rubber coating off the stud threads by hand. Clean the threads with a toothbrush if necessary.
We recommend using a very light coat of liquid pipe sealant on the coarse threads of the stud before installation into the block. We DO NOT RECOMMEND USING LOCTITE OR OTHER LIQUID THREAD LOCKING COMPOUNDS ON ANY OF THE THREADS!!!)
The studs should be threaded in by HAND ONLY until they bottom. NOTE: If you are installing the head on an engine in the vehicle, check for adequate clearance to install the head with the studs installed in the block. (Studs can be installed with head in position if necessary.) Make sure to install the head gasket correctly, etc. before positioning the cylinder head. If necessary, back studs out of the block just enough to insure that there is full engagement of threads in the nut.
After the studs have been installed correctly, use regular engine oil ONLY, (NO ADDITIVES) to lubricate the stud, nut and washer before assembly. The nuts use a 9/16" (14mm) 12 point style socket. Torque the nuts in three increments using the torque pattern in the factory service manual.
step 1 (30) ft/lbs.
step 2 (50) ft/lbs.
FINAL TORQUE 65 ft/ lbs. = (90 Nm)
We recommend running the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature then shutting it off and allowing it to cool to room temperature, then re-torque the nuts to 65 ft/lbs., (90 Nm), again. RACEWARE Engineering L.L.C. warranties these fasteners to be free of defects in material and workmanship to the original purchaser, for life. No other warranty is expressed or implied including suitability for application. Claims are limited to replacement of defective item or refund of purchase price only, at RACEWARE Engineering’s option, if returned with proper authorization. The user assumes all risk and agrees to hold RACEWARE Engineering L.L.C. and its principals harmless, and free of any claims including but not limited to incidental expenses, cost of removal and replacement, etc.. No claims may be brought by outside parties such as friends, family, acquaintances, or others. Warranty VOID if fasteners are subjected to misuse or abuse, or improperly installed.
By installation of these fasteners, user agrees to these terms.
IF FOR ANY REASON YOU CHOSE NOT TO ACCEPT THESE TERMS, YOU MUST
RETURN THE MERCHANDISE IN ITS ORIGINAL CONDITION FOR A FULL REFUND.
Ow wait.. Just found them in my mailbox from them:
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS RWE-1011 944/944T HSK
PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION.
Correct installation is important for proper results. Remove original head studs by double nutting and backing out. The original studs may have a locking compound applied. We recommend heating the engine block thread area to soften this compound and expand the aluminum. To prevent removal of heat treat, Do Not Exceed 250 degrees F., actual metal temperature. Once the stud backs out a half turn or so, apply a small amount of oil to the thread area and work the stud in and out to lubricate the threads and prevent galling on removal.After cleaning the cylinder head and block deck per the factory service manual, clean all head stud holes in the block with a 12 X 1.50mm tap and compressed air if possible. (Be careful not to allow debris to enter any other area of engine.) Peel the protective rubber coating off the stud threads by hand. Clean the threads with a toothbrush if necessary.
We recommend using a very light coat of liquid pipe sealant on the coarse threads of the stud before installation into the block. We DO NOT RECOMMEND USING LOCTITE OR OTHER LIQUID THREAD LOCKING COMPOUNDS ON ANY OF THE THREADS!!!)
The studs should be threaded in by HAND ONLY until they bottom. NOTE: If you are installing the head on an engine in the vehicle, check for adequate clearance to install the head with the studs installed in the block. (Studs can be installed with head in position if necessary.) Make sure to install the head gasket correctly, etc. before positioning the cylinder head. If necessary, back studs out of the block just enough to insure that there is full engagement of threads in the nut.
After the studs have been installed correctly, use regular engine oil ONLY, (NO ADDITIVES) to lubricate the stud, nut and washer before assembly. The nuts use a 9/16" (14mm) 12 point style socket. Torque the nuts in three increments using the torque pattern in the factory service manual.
step 1 (30) ft/lbs.
step 2 (50) ft/lbs.
FINAL TORQUE 65 ft/ lbs. = (90 Nm)
We recommend running the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature then shutting it off and allowing it to cool to room temperature, then re-torque the nuts to 65 ft/lbs., (90 Nm), again. RACEWARE Engineering L.L.C. warranties these fasteners to be free of defects in material and workmanship to the original purchaser, for life. No other warranty is expressed or implied including suitability for application. Claims are limited to replacement of defective item or refund of purchase price only, at RACEWARE Engineering’s option, if returned with proper authorization. The user assumes all risk and agrees to hold RACEWARE Engineering L.L.C. and its principals harmless, and free of any claims including but not limited to incidental expenses, cost of removal and replacement, etc.. No claims may be brought by outside parties such as friends, family, acquaintances, or others. Warranty VOID if fasteners are subjected to misuse or abuse, or improperly installed.
By installation of these fasteners, user agrees to these terms.
IF FOR ANY REASON YOU CHOSE NOT TO ACCEPT THESE TERMS, YOU MUST
RETURN THE MERCHANDISE IN ITS ORIGINAL CONDITION FOR A FULL REFUND.
12-23-2014, 06:28 AM
#15
Three Wheelin'
And these are for the 3.0L crankbolts:
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS RWE-2010 MAIN STUD KIT
PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION.
Correct installation is important for proper results. Clean the Main Bearing Cap Bolt Holes with a 12 X 1.75mm tap, and the Sump Bolt Holes with a 10 x 1.50mm tap and compressed air if possible. Try not to remove any metal. (Be careful not to allow debris to enter other areas of the engine.) Peel the protective rubber coating off the stud threads by hand. Clean the threads with a toothbrush if necessary.
We recommend installing the studs into the block BY HAND until they bottom. It is acceptable to use a SINGLE DROP of liquid thread locking compound on the COARSE thread of the stud that screws into the block. We DO NOT RECOMMEND USING LIQUID THREAD LOCKER ON THE THREADS ON THE NUT END OF THE STUD !!!
After the studs have been installed correctly, use regular petroleum engine oil ONLY, (NO ARP Goop, NO Synthetic Oil, Moly Lube, Cam Lube or other oil additives as these require a DIFFERENT and MUCH LOWER toque specification), to lubricate the stud, nut and washer before assembly. The Main Stud Nuts use a 9/16" 12 Point socket and the Sump Stud Nuts use a 7/16" 12 Point socket. Torque the nuts in three increments using the torque pattern in the Porsche factory service manual.
The 1/2" Nuts (12mm Studs) are torqued as follows:
Step 1 (20) ft/lbs. Step 2 (35) ft/lbs. FINAL TORQUE (55) ft/lbs.
The 7/16" Nuts (10mm Studs) are torqued as follows:
Step 1. (15) ft/lbs. Step 2. (20) ft/lbs. FINAL TORQUE (30) ft/lbs.
If you have any questions, please call our Tech Line at : (734) 947-9499 Monday-Friday 9-5 EST.
Raceware Engineering L. L. C. warrants these fasteners to be free of defects in material and workmanship for life, to the original purchaser. No other warranty is expressed or implied including suitability for application. Claims are limited to replacement of defective item or refund of purchase price only, at RACEWARE Engineering’s option, if returned with proper authorization. The user assumes all risk and agrees to hold RACEWARE Engineering L.L.C. and its principals harmless, and free of any claims including but not limited to incidental expenses, cost of removal and replacement, etc.. No claims may be brought by outside parties. By installation of these fasteners, user agrees to these terms without modification even if some aspect of these terms is ruled unenforceable under law. Warranty VOID if fasteners are subjected to misuse or abuse, or improperly installed.
IF FOR ANY REASON YOU CHOSE NOT TO ACCEPT THESE TERMS, YOU MUST RETURN THE MERCHANDISE IN ITS ORIGINAL CONDITION FOR A FULL REFUND.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS RWE-2010 MAIN STUD KIT
PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION.
Correct installation is important for proper results. Clean the Main Bearing Cap Bolt Holes with a 12 X 1.75mm tap, and the Sump Bolt Holes with a 10 x 1.50mm tap and compressed air if possible. Try not to remove any metal. (Be careful not to allow debris to enter other areas of the engine.) Peel the protective rubber coating off the stud threads by hand. Clean the threads with a toothbrush if necessary.
We recommend installing the studs into the block BY HAND until they bottom. It is acceptable to use a SINGLE DROP of liquid thread locking compound on the COARSE thread of the stud that screws into the block. We DO NOT RECOMMEND USING LIQUID THREAD LOCKER ON THE THREADS ON THE NUT END OF THE STUD !!!
After the studs have been installed correctly, use regular petroleum engine oil ONLY, (NO ARP Goop, NO Synthetic Oil, Moly Lube, Cam Lube or other oil additives as these require a DIFFERENT and MUCH LOWER toque specification), to lubricate the stud, nut and washer before assembly. The Main Stud Nuts use a 9/16" 12 Point socket and the Sump Stud Nuts use a 7/16" 12 Point socket. Torque the nuts in three increments using the torque pattern in the Porsche factory service manual.
The 1/2" Nuts (12mm Studs) are torqued as follows:
Step 1 (20) ft/lbs. Step 2 (35) ft/lbs. FINAL TORQUE (55) ft/lbs.
The 7/16" Nuts (10mm Studs) are torqued as follows:
Step 1. (15) ft/lbs. Step 2. (20) ft/lbs. FINAL TORQUE (30) ft/lbs.
If you have any questions, please call our Tech Line at : (734) 947-9499 Monday-Friday 9-5 EST.
Raceware Engineering L. L. C. warrants these fasteners to be free of defects in material and workmanship for life, to the original purchaser. No other warranty is expressed or implied including suitability for application. Claims are limited to replacement of defective item or refund of purchase price only, at RACEWARE Engineering’s option, if returned with proper authorization. The user assumes all risk and agrees to hold RACEWARE Engineering L.L.C. and its principals harmless, and free of any claims including but not limited to incidental expenses, cost of removal and replacement, etc.. No claims may be brought by outside parties. By installation of these fasteners, user agrees to these terms without modification even if some aspect of these terms is ruled unenforceable under law. Warranty VOID if fasteners are subjected to misuse or abuse, or improperly installed.
IF FOR ANY REASON YOU CHOSE NOT TO ACCEPT THESE TERMS, YOU MUST RETURN THE MERCHANDISE IN ITS ORIGINAL CONDITION FOR A FULL REFUND.