drill the cycling valve??
09-01-2004, 06:20 PM
#1
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drill the cycling valve??
Ok, so what is the trick I have read about elsewhere about drilling the cycling valve on a 44 turbo? Does this really make the boost come on earlier? Does it hurt the reliability at all? What are the "side effects"?
Thanks to anyone that is familiar with this.
Thanks to anyone that is familiar with this.
09-01-2004, 06:24 PM
#3
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You dont drill it??? Not sure if i understud you but...You can just get rid of it. It will make boost come on much faster. Search about this. This was a very big discussion just a little bit ago. Might even be on the 1st page of the forum.
09-01-2004, 06:24 PM
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That is one of the things that is in the instructions with eurproducts chips, i ran them for a year but never got round to drilling the cycling valve so not sure about the benefits
09-01-2004, 06:29 PM
#5
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That was an old trick to get more boost. If I understood it correctly, the idea was to let some of the boost pressure bleed off before it got to the wastegate, so that the wastegate will open slower/less. With manual controllers available for under $100, I don't think you can justify drilling into the cylcing valve anymore.
09-01-2004, 09:52 PM
#6
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My understanding of the cycling valve- It's job is to prevent over boost. As the turbo spools up it tapers off the boost as to not go PAST set peak. If you drill out the cycling valve by poking a drill bit in a certain hole and puncturing a membrane, you disable it and the boost will be able to come on harder approaching peak, not tapering as designed.
My 89 puts 290 to the wheels with a drilled cycling valve, custom chips, adj FPR, a little head work and a shimmed WG. I don't know what I'd do with a manual controller, I think I may get crazy with one kinda like a morphine drip system. It has been a while, but I seem to recall being able to tell a difference when the C-valve lost its cherry.
My 89 puts 290 to the wheels with a drilled cycling valve, custom chips, adj FPR, a little head work and a shimmed WG. I don't know what I'd do with a manual controller, I think I may get crazy with one kinda like a morphine drip system. It has been a while, but I seem to recall being able to tell a difference when the C-valve lost its cherry.
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09-02-2004, 10:13 AM
#8
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Don't drill the cycling valve. Just bypass it and by something like and LBE or a reliaboost. The problem with drilling it is that you can't go back to stock if the need ever arises. Another problem I see, not sure if its true but the boost is then unmonitored. Just my .02
