hosrom_951

Danno, that is what i thought

JKTurbo

Okay
My issue is no power at coil and no fuel.

I have tried a rebuilt DME with no luck,

Possible causes
1. Bad DME Relay, I have a second and will try that.
Question: Can I check for power at the DME relay and will that tell me anything? I should have power there regardless of the relay and I don't think I do..
2. Bad chip in my DME, this is the only part I transferred from old DME to new.
Question: Can I take my rebuilt DME/KLR and plug in the stock chips with any hope of the car starting? ARC and Mass Air installed.. Doing this do I risk damaging anything?
Final question, is there a ground somewhere that I should be checking?

Thanks, this is the week that my car will run once again.

-JK

951Tom

The coil gets it's 12V+ at terminal 15 from the ignition switch. Then the DME grounds terminal 1 to send the spark. So if you've got no power at the coil, your problem is the ignition switch.

I'm trying to figure out a intermittant no start also. Sometimes it just cranks and cranks & won't start. If I wait, a few minutes and try it again, it starts right up great. Banging on the floor seems to help but I'm not really sure as sometimes it'll start without banging on the floor. I verified no spark from my handy Harbor Freight $2.99 spark tester as well as swapped a good DME relay.

quinnfiske

Take a look at www.Clarks-Garage.com. A very good 944/951 site. He has a good section on DME relay testing. Power for the relay goes through the ignition switch so maybe your switch is bad.

JKTurbo

Do I have a ground issue. While testing the old DME compared to the new rebuilt I decided that I have more then a DME issue. The tach does not bounce, the wipers are up and once turned off don't return to home. Also, none of my gages move when I turn the key, no fuel pump buzz. I am guessing bad ground or a mouse had a field day with my wire harness.

-JK

87951

I may be all wet, but every time I've experienced a no start problem, the cause has been the crank sensors. Usually just yanking on them vigorously is enough to get the car started. At that point you have isolated the problem and can then figure out how to fix it. I went thru the same scenario a week ago. Hit a bump, car died and had to have a friend tow me home. Tried 3 DME's, new DME relay, jumped fuel pump, still no start. Since I had previously soldered the sensor wires to eliminate those crappy connector plugs, i assumed the problem was elsewhere. Well guess what, cut the wires again and re-soldered and haven't had the problem since.

Tom M'Guinn

Have you tried the new DME relay yet?

special tool

Yeah, the FIRST thing you check on any 944 car is the relay, not the 20th.
Also - when you sent that unfixable dme to the shop, did you get it back when they told you it was unfixable?? Go get it from them, because they are probably going to sell it on e-bay for $300.

JKTurbo

Here is the latest.
Swapped DME relays no change, still won't start. I am heading down the path of looking for some sort of bad relay/switch.

If I turn the key to accessory my door chime starts(door open). I have my cigarette lighter, clock, ARC, and air fuel meter. I don't have power seats, mirrors, windows, spark, or fuel. Tried the test port and blink codes, did not blink when I took off the TPS. The parking lights work, but no head lights. At first I was thinking alarm, did something happen with the computer to trigger the alarm. PO disconnected the alarm and I have never used it.

I am wondering if there is a main wire or wire harness that could have a problem. Next relay or ignition switch. I will be looking closer at the ignition switch.

Yes I have the old DME.

Thanks,
JK

quinnfiske

My next guess would be the ignition switch or alarm. There is a way of unplugging the connector and jump between two of the connections (3 and 4 I think, look at Clarks web site) to bypass the alarm. Maybe the PO did that and the jumper fell off. The alarm box is mounted under the floor with the DME/KLR.

It never hurts to clean the ground connection in the battery box. Gives you something to do while you fume. It fixed an intermittant no start problem for me.

quinnfiske

My previous post had pin numbers for bypassing the alarm. They are probably wrong so disregard them. I have heard it is possible to bypass this device, but have never done it myself.

JKTurbo

Well, progress is slow...

I have new grounds and new ignition switch. Still won’t start The mechanic is saying the issue is in the fuse box, what the manual refers to as the central electric board. The car started with jumpers to the DME Relay plug, wiggle the board and the motor cuts out. It looks like the board has two layers and we believe that there is a loose connection between the two.

Anyone ever played around with this?

Thanks

quinnfiske

I have a friend that has a VW Golf. He said that those cars had a rash of similar failures at one point. Perhaps someone in that universe has a simple fix.