87uk944t

I have just sold an LBE on ebay, i had adjusted it to up boost pressure but the guy that bought it wants to restore it to factory setting (dont think he has aftermarket boost gauge), can anyone tell me how many threads should be exposed when the LBE is at factory setting (i am assuming that this should be consistent with them all) or any other way to reset it????
Also i understand that the 10psi factory setting actually equates to 15psi on the boost gauge is that correct???
TIA Graeme

87uk944t

anyone???? any ideas on resetting this back to factory setting

hosrom_951

I believe that everything is described on the Lindsey site.

If you take it 'out of the box' it is already set at 11 psi

Their site also explains how to increase/decrease the settings.......

theedge

Bump. I just bought a used one, couldnt find a number for threads exposed on the site...

Asarus

I think that using the LBE (or anything else like this) without a boost gauge is really not recommanded as you don't know your exact boost level. Moreover, using this without dedicated chips (or at least adjusted AF ratio to match the new boost level) is not good either...

That doesn't reply exactly to the question but i hope it will help to save your engine

hosrom_951

If you have the LBE on a COMPLETELY stock car, no matter how high the boost setting is, the DME/KLR has a safety/fuel cutt off at 12psi or so...........right?

Unless you have a set of chips (15+psi) that is where you would be running rich (boost too low for chips) or lean (boost too high) and things get dangerously messy...........

Here is Lindsey's link to adjustments:

http://www.lindseyracing.com/adjust.htm

87uk944t

LBE is supposed to be a 'safe' upgrade on stock cars when set at factory setting, i am sure that lindsey racing in America and promax here in the UK wouldnt sell it as such if it wasnt. I see that the lbe is fully adjustable to 20psi and factory setting is 10psi with each turn on thread being approxiametly 1psi, so logic would say that if it was screwed right in(full boost) then wound out ten turns this would bring it back close to factory setting, does this sound reasonable????

jsonnen

Why are people still buying these things? They are known to spike and have no bleed-off protection......play it safe and buy a Reliaboost or similiar!

87uk944t

i have just sold mine lol, its the person that i have sold it too that wants it reset to factory setting

hosrom_951

The difference with a reliaboost/accuboost and the LBE is that the LBE is rerouting between the IC banjo and the CV.

The reliaboost/accuboost is 'preferred' to be connected between the IC banjo bolt DIRECTLY to the WG bypassing the CV.

The reliaboost is dangerous without an a/f ratio AND boost gauge, the LBC (in my opinion) isn't

Doesn't the DME/KLR get the boost readings from the CV? it's connected right?

Bypassing it eliminates the DME/KLR from 'sensing' boost, thus no cut-off

Am i right about this? i feel that i am not.........

hosrom_951

"i have just sold mine lol, its the person that i have sold it too that wants it reset to factory setting"

Send him the instructions from the link i posted at Lindsey's website let him count the threads on the picture

Diver944

If his car is bone stock then get him to gradually wind back the LBE until the overboost protection does not kick in. This is what I used to do. Tell him to floor the car in 3rd on an open road to test. He may need to wind it in another turn when winter comes and the air gets cooler. His DME protection will not allow overboost so this will be a safe operation.