Polished standard intercooler pipes
#16
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This place is a Polishers dream come true ...
Makes me so excited that I may polish my trophy !!!
Thanks Mike
Regrds
Ed
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Makes me so excited that I may polish my trophy !!!
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Thanks Mike
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Regrds
Ed
#17
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Originally Posted by Mike Murcia
They are aluminum. The black "coating" is actually anodized aluminum. I originally tried sanding, and it will work, but it takes a lot of elbow grease. The easiest, laziest way to remove the black is to usa a little basic chemistry. Brush on a concentrated lye (NaOH) solution (can buy it in the cleaning aisle of the supermarket) and wait. After a few minutes, the surface will bubble up and you can use a scotch brite pad to scrub it down. Don't leave it on the pipes too long, as it will eventually dissolve the whole pipe. Also, use it in a well ventilated area, and do not get any of the lye solution on your skin. It's nasty stuff, but it works very well. Some have suggested oven cleaner (also NaOH based), but I found it to be too weak for my liking. Once the pipes are clean, rub them down with your favorite metal polish. I am all about making jobs easier, so I used a buffing wheel on the bench grinder to give a mirror finish. Good luck! ![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
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whjat is that polished Alloy Item under the Chassis number, has a cable coming out of it. Don't have this on mine and couldn't work out what it was!
Cheers
Tm
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Mike; I see you have the Lindsey CBV installed opposite of how it is installed in the pictures on their site. Does it work OK for you? I have mine installed like in the picture on Lindsey's site. Should I install mine like you did?
#20
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Eivind, the CBV fits better the way Lindsey has it, but there's a potential problem. If you do not have the correct spring pressure set, you can leak boost with their orientation. I don't know about you, but I don't like the thought of losing my boost.
The way the stock CBV works is that the weak spring holds the diaphragm shut until the vac line attached to the top of the car pulls the diaphragm up allowing the boost to bleed from the intercooler pipe to the intake boot. You can use a weak spring here becasue there is no boost on the bottom of the diaphragm to push it open prematurely.
If you were to invert the stock valve, so the opening opposite the vac nipple is placed on the intercooler pipe, and the side opening is attached to the intake boot, you would bleed boost all day long because the boost pressure from the intercooler would push the valve open. It's the same as having a broken CBV.
The trick that Lindsey relies on is a stiffer, or adjustable spring to keep that diaphragm shut. It's a good idea, but what is the max boost before you start to overcome the spring tension and leak boost to the intake boot? I've installed the valve both ways, and I can hear a difference even with the valve set to max tension.
I won't tell you that you have the valve installed wrong, but I will say try it the other way and see if you feel or hear a difference. It works great for me. Just make sure that the hood will close without hitting the valve. It's a tight fit.
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The way the stock CBV works is that the weak spring holds the diaphragm shut until the vac line attached to the top of the car pulls the diaphragm up allowing the boost to bleed from the intercooler pipe to the intake boot. You can use a weak spring here becasue there is no boost on the bottom of the diaphragm to push it open prematurely.
If you were to invert the stock valve, so the opening opposite the vac nipple is placed on the intercooler pipe, and the side opening is attached to the intake boot, you would bleed boost all day long because the boost pressure from the intercooler would push the valve open. It's the same as having a broken CBV.
The trick that Lindsey relies on is a stiffer, or adjustable spring to keep that diaphragm shut. It's a good idea, but what is the max boost before you start to overcome the spring tension and leak boost to the intake boot? I've installed the valve both ways, and I can hear a difference even with the valve set to max tension.
I won't tell you that you have the valve installed wrong, but I will say try it the other way and see if you feel or hear a difference. It works great for me. Just make sure that the hood will close without hitting the valve. It's a tight fit.
#21
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Originally Posted by Mike Murcia
If you were to invert the stock valve, so the opening opposite the vac nipple is placed on the intercooler pipe, and the side opening is attached to the intake boot, you would bleed boost all day long because the boost pressure from the intercooler would push the valve open. It's the same as having a broken CBV.
Thanks Mike!
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It will not clear the hood. Now I've got a dent to prove it. I'm angry with myself for spending $190 on a part that has design flaws. I'm getting a different valve (one that mounts like the stock one) to see how it compares to Lindsey's.
Oh well. It's only money.
Oh well. It's only money.
#23
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Yeah I dont know why they dont fix their site pics, it so confusing. I mucked around with my LR bov for ages and never got an excellent answer and no explanation of the pics being diff on their site. I sold it...
#24
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Eivind, sorry to hear about the dent. Ouch! Instead of buying another valve, some have opted to relocate it in a less cramped area by fitting longer, elbow-ed hoses. Just a thought.
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OK Mike. I'll see what I can do. Anyways the dent is barely visable. Like the kind only I can see myself at a certain angel when the light hits it in a particular way
The valve will fit if I install it like Lindsey say, but I would like to try it the other way. I guess I'll see if I can find a male/male connector to go into the J-boot.
Anyways; I tried to blow into the opening opposite of the vacuum nipple, and there is no way I can make it open. I have no idea of how much pressure 18psi is compared to the pressure when I blow as hard as I can.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The valve will fit if I install it like Lindsey say, but I would like to try it the other way. I guess I'll see if I can find a male/male connector to go into the J-boot.
Anyways; I tried to blow into the opening opposite of the vacuum nipple, and there is no way I can make it open. I have no idea of how much pressure 18psi is compared to the pressure when I blow as hard as I can.
#26
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schnellfahrer
In the states here we have places like fix a dent etc...
That can completely eliminate a dent like that with out painting etc..
I am sure they have then there as well ... Dealers use them all the time
regards
Ed
In the states here we have places like fix a dent etc...
That can completely eliminate a dent like that with out painting etc..
I am sure they have then there as well ... Dealers use them all the time
regards
Ed
#27
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Originally Posted by schnellfahrer
OK Mike. I'll see what I can do. Anyways the dent is barely visable. Like the kind only I can see myself at a certain angel when the light hits it in a particular way
The valve will fit if I install it like Lindsey say, but I would like to try it the other way. I guess I'll see if I can find a male/male connector to go into the J-boot.
Anyways; I tried to blow into the opening opposite of the vacuum nipple, and there is no way I can make it open. I have no idea of how much pressure 18psi is compared to the pressure when I blow as hard as I can.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The valve will fit if I install it like Lindsey say, but I would like to try it the other way. I guess I'll see if I can find a male/male connector to go into the J-boot.
Anyways; I tried to blow into the opening opposite of the vacuum nipple, and there is no way I can make it open. I have no idea of how much pressure 18psi is compared to the pressure when I blow as hard as I can.
#28
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Yeah boost will help it stay shut, btw if you are going to buy a new dv. Check out the evolution motorsports one. It fits in the stock location, not much bigger, but flows a ton better. I am very happy with mine.
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