Konstantin

anyone have some infos how to get them off?
I wnat to heat them at about 200 degree and get them out. any better ideas pro or contra or an easier and safer way to do the job?

Konstantin

Ski

Due to the heat on the exhaust side you can probably get those out without heat, a pipe wrench worked well for me. However, the other side, well they are going to have to be heated. The shop that just reworked the track car cylinder walls had to heat them to 350+ to get them out.

Gator_86_951

Mine came out using a snap-on head stud removal tool. I guess I was just lucky.

alexands

The machine shop did mine and broke part of the block in the process. Some are easy to come out, and some were almost impossible. I bought one of these tools and thought I could do it myself http://www.tavia.com/cat2.html#2. I couldn't even get this thing to get a good grip on the studs. Don't waste your time or money.

Gator_86_951

I don't mean to give misguided advice. I guess mine were extraordinarily easy to break loose.

ian kam

I would take it in to get done learn from my mistake a broken block ...finding a good used block to replace pay big bucks and then miss out on driving your car all summer. Get a pro to remove them I would say worth the money and security if they break the block then they can deal with it!!!

HughA44s

I have done this twice, on two different engines. Take it to a shop that has an oven that can heat to over 400 degrees. This is needed to soften the locktite. Even with that, it is still a tough job. Also, put PB Blaster down the stud holes and let soak for as long as you can before you bring it to the shop. By the way, no damage to the blocks either time. Have them skim the head while your at it. Makes sealing the HG much easier.

TonyG

double nut and a big wrench.

works for me...

TonyG

BoostGuy951

I tried the double nut technique, and a generous application of penetrating oil. It worked great for most of the studs. There were a couple that I couldnt get out, so, on those I threaded a nut down even with the top of the stud, and mig welded them together. Then I used a wrench, breaker bar, and a former linebacker friend to break it loose.

Chris White

My standard way to do this is to Tig weld the nuts to the studs – this heats up the stud and gives very good wrench grip! Once the nut is welded on you give the stud a good whack with a hammer to break the threads loose. Then I use a 400 ftlb impact gun….
I have a box of a hundred head studs with nuts welded on…any ideas on a good use for them?!

JDeitz951

I used one of those hammer-on socket-type stud tools that have sharp internal splines that cut into the top threads. No slippage, no heat, not even a big breaker bar. Just steady pressure with a 18" 3/8-drive swivel-head socket handle. Lots of PB blaster 24-hrs in advance.

ftanguay

If I knew they were soooooo tought to remove I'll just let them were they are. If it's not a race car they should be fine (according to my Porsche mecanic).

I had to heat them ruby red with cutting torch for 30 min, let them think about that for 12 hours, heat the block a bit and use a pipe wrench. (before all that I put penetreting oil for 2 weeks! and break 2 snap on tools)

PS: BE VERY carefull if you use a pipe wrench, I did a little scratch on cylinder wall... snif!

Just a bit of my PAINFULL experien$e...

Konstantin

ok thanks. I just took of 3 of them. One do not want to come out.
any idea how to install safely the ARP studs?
any special tool needed?

Konstantin

Jim @ EuroWerks

I've done it all kind of ways. Heat, no heat, Keith likes to soak oil into the threads 1st. I'm not sure that helps, but cannot rule it out. I do it no-the -less just incase. I've also had to drill out two on separate blocks both being turbos. If they were meant to break when you take them out, there's no stopping it. You should deffinately try double nutting them 1st just to see how lucky you are. Sometimes they all come out easy. I've tryed migging a nut on top of the stud, but thats always a last resort as the heat makes the stud more brittle and easier to snap.

JDeitz951

I tried double-nutting, but the nuts still turned on the stud. I think the stud was stretching under the nuts.