sm

Seals have been ordered from Sunset Porsche. That integral seal is over $60!

They didn't have the 9215 OPRV alignment tool in stock, so has anyone tried this one from Sir tools before?



And in this pic, where is the Thermostat for the oil and where is the OPRV?



So this is what I have to work with? It seems daunting!

Waterguy

Its mainly intimidating because of access/space limitations. In the first picture, you can just see part of the OPRV (19 mm hex head?) peaking out just under the side brace for the oil cooler line, where it bolts to the oil filter housing with that 10 mm bolt. Once you remove the oil cooler line, it is easily accessible. The turbo themostat is not visible in either picture; it is between the oil filter and the engine block.

The instructions on Clark's are good, but they don't emphasize the space requirements. You should seriously consider droppoing the sway bar and right suppport bracket. You may want to remove the PS pump as well, although I didn't. You can then remove the oil pressure sender (27 mm or 32 mm open end wrench; can't remember which.) You can then remove the oil cooler lines, which in my case required holding the fitting with a thin 27 mm wrench while removing the line with a 32 mm wrench. Once the oil cooler lines are off, removal of the OPRV and housing are a piece of cake.

I bought the official Porsche alignment tool, so I can't comment on the one shown. The late-model Porsche tool threads into the OPRV hole using a knurled ****. This forced me to get the alignment straight enough so that I could unthread the tool by hand after the housing was torqued. This took me several tries to get it torqued down evenly and ialigned. I thought the threaded tool and knurled surface for fingertip removal were a great idea; if it wasn't perfect, you couldn't remove the alignment tool and were forced to do it again!

awilson40

If you have the 2 piece OPRV , then you need the right tool. I plan on doing mine this fall and ordered the parts needed. The mechs at Zimms said they dont sell the tool for late models as its not required.
They just use the OPRV. The older 2 piece is much more critical.
Also, get yourself a set of metric Crows foot wrenches, they will really help.

sm

I'll likely be removing the p.s. pump as well as the swaybar bracket, at the least.

So it seems the oil thermostat and OP sender DO NOT have to be removed; is that correct?

Is the hole with the orange crud in it where the OPRV goes?



I assume my OPRV is the multi-piece one since my car is an 86. Thanks for reminding me about Zims. I'll check to see if they have the tool.

Thanks guys...

cruise98

The SIR tool works fine. The orange crud is where the OPRV is located. The oil thermostat is located under the large recessed allen plug next to the fitting for the oil filter. Unless you just want to take it apart and clean it, you do not have to fool with it.

The drain for the block is shown well in this picture. It is the small threaded hole below the #4 exhaust port.

If you take the ps pump out and drop the sway bar, access is much improved.

What are you referring to as the integral seal? Is that the housing gasket?

sm

Ok, so I have the oil cooler pipe, part #951-107-152-03.

The oil cooler seals on my car were done about 3 years ago, but oil is leaking into the coolant already. Since I don't trust the work of the P.O. nor his mechanic, can someone tell me with certainty which end of the oil cooler pipe goes in the engine block?

Thanks!

Laust Pedersen

Contrary to my experience and in agreement to “cruise98”’s post, the connector tube in the picture appears to be fully symmetric, so orientation should not be important.

Out of curiosity, is that a new or your old tube? And if new, is your old tube visibly different?

If I should guess, Porsche probably upgraded the tube to be symmetric in order to avoid faulty (leaky) installation.

adrial

The "oil cooler pipe" I have appears fully symmetric.

sm

That's the new tube and the old one is still on the car. I tried to measure the two o-ring recesses and they seem to only differ by ~.5mm. That's measured using the IKEA ruler in the background, though

adrial

Using digital calipers, I'm getting the exact same number for both recesses.

The only thing different from side to side is the thickness of the outer wall. It is different by .08mm from side to side...

So, far all intensive purposes...its symmetrical IMO

sm

After getting kicked out of my parking lot, I found a mesquito-infested place to work on the oil cooler seals.

This picture is of the old and new connector pipe. You can clearly see that the old one is not symmetrical and it even has an arrow hand-etched on the surface (not in pic). I'm not sure who etched the arrow in, but it was facing the outside of the motor - might that be why oil was getting in my coolant? Or was it the ripped o-rings?

Either way, I put in the new connector pipe as it seemed more leakproof (just a wild guess).



Now, this is the three piece OPRV, right? I assumed it was and didn't put any new o-rings on.



My oil pressure gauge still flickers, which it did before, but pressure is normal so I'll assume the job was done correctly.