OriginalSterm

we realize blue on the old AFM gets capped, what about blue on the 5-wire harness coming from the Power Perfect computer?

OriginalSterm

This is dmoffitt on greg's computer - all you need is the MAF kit (I think the Mafterburner is an upgraded version of their Digital MAF kit, they are both great products imo). you can expect decent gains from cleaning up the intake path but that's about it.

billgot

That might be the wire you need to hook onto the O2 sensor.I am not sure I been tyring to look at my car but I tucked all the wire behind glove box.You might have to call lindsey I a certain a wire gets cut from the computer and goes to the powerperfect so the computer can no longer adjust fuel with the o2 sensor.With out cutting that wire your computer will counter act you adjustments.

Mendrax

I'm really sorry to ask so stupid questions but :

- What are the advantages of a MAF kit (like lindsey MAF + Mafterburner) against stock AFM? Tunability, power???
- Do you think there are other mods to do first to get more power on a stock car ?

OriginalSterm

tapped the blue wire from the Power Perfect into the green wire (DME pin #1) for load. appears to work as desired. car idles great and pulls strong, no stumbles. dave did a great job dialing in the map. just gotta figure out how to keep the porcupine to maf pipe silicon hose from popping off...



*EDIT* blue does nothing, it ended up giving us a little puff of smoke so that wire is just taped off for now...

dmoffitt

mendrax, maf kits allow two things: adjustability is the first, and less restriction between the filter and the turbo is the second. combined these two things can net decent gains - many 'chip' setups are too rich in the low/mid range and too lean on the top end, which is scary, as you are wasting gas and hurting performance and endangering the engine all at once (for example, huntley and autothority chips).

as far as mods to do first, i would suggest doing several things concurrently with a MAF: a cat-less downpipe aka test-pipe, and some sort of manual boost controler / lbe / reliaboost / etc to eliminate the KLR's job of controlling boost (aka, cutting out the cycling valve). boost will build faster and not taper.

btw has anyone had problems with the purosil hoses popping off? for some reason the one after the porcupine going into the pipe containing the sensor keeps coming off between the sensor and hose... should we rough up the pipe there a bit so that the chromed / polished part isn't so slippery, or what about some kind of tape or compound to help hold it?