TO4E vs. TO4B
#17
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally posted by Blueman33
OR BUY A BRAND NEW TURBOKENETICS, 60 HI FI for around the same amount.
Whatever the pros and cons, the 60 HiFi is relatively cheap
OR BUY A BRAND NEW TURBOKENETICS, 60 HI FI for around the same amount.
Whatever the pros and cons, the 60 HiFi is relatively cheap
#18
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
All I know is that TonyG recomended the 60 hi fi, and he is very knowledgeable, and has made a bunch of hp. I think he sold his million horsepower 951, and therefore doesn't post on this thread much.
#19
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
All I know is that TonyG recomended the 60 hi fi, and he is very knowledgeable, and has made a bunch of hp. I think he sold his million horsepower 951, and therefore doesn't post on this thread much.
#21
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Darius,
just to clarify; all turbos make the same amount of boost at close to the same RPM if they are running in their intended usage range.
For example: a certain size compressor makes 20 psi boost at, lets say, 90,000 RPM. A compressor twice the size will also make 20 psi at 90,000 RPM (maybe a little less). The real difference is that the bigger compressor can flow more volume, therefore feed a bigger engine or make more boost and still be effecient. No turbo can turn 200,000RPM without destroying itself.
As far as turbo choices is concerned, there has been so much talk that it has been rendered more complicated than it actually is.
On the compressor side, the only thing that matters is CFM. You need to ask the turbo seller how much the turbo compressor in question can flow in CFM. He might tell you something about lb/min, but that's not really good enough because that changes with elevation, CFM does not. If he cannot answer that question, you tell him that you cannot buy from a non-knowledgeable person. Just for reference: the stock compressor is about 400 CFM (slight differences in opinion here, I'm sure, but close) and can support about 325 crank horse power (again, probable differences in opinions, but close enough)
Now, you just do the math.
The different makes of turbos with all their nomenclature; doesn't mean anything except personal preference like choosing one gasoline over another. As far as performance is concerned, CFM is the only thing that matters.
Fitment issues, I grant you , is another story and obviously needs to be researched.
The hotside of the turbo is a little more complicated and there you might need to trust the combination of opinions from vendors and other users.
If you ask for a high flow turbo that spools up quickly and somebody points to a certain turbo, you are either being lied to or it's a very expensive variable nozzle turbocharger. The consensus is that BB turbos are also supposed to be good for that, but I don't know. In general, you can't have it both ways. You can try to research something out as close as possible.
just to clarify; all turbos make the same amount of boost at close to the same RPM if they are running in their intended usage range.
For example: a certain size compressor makes 20 psi boost at, lets say, 90,000 RPM. A compressor twice the size will also make 20 psi at 90,000 RPM (maybe a little less). The real difference is that the bigger compressor can flow more volume, therefore feed a bigger engine or make more boost and still be effecient. No turbo can turn 200,000RPM without destroying itself.
As far as turbo choices is concerned, there has been so much talk that it has been rendered more complicated than it actually is.
On the compressor side, the only thing that matters is CFM. You need to ask the turbo seller how much the turbo compressor in question can flow in CFM. He might tell you something about lb/min, but that's not really good enough because that changes with elevation, CFM does not. If he cannot answer that question, you tell him that you cannot buy from a non-knowledgeable person. Just for reference: the stock compressor is about 400 CFM (slight differences in opinion here, I'm sure, but close) and can support about 325 crank horse power (again, probable differences in opinions, but close enough)
Now, you just do the math.
The different makes of turbos with all their nomenclature; doesn't mean anything except personal preference like choosing one gasoline over another. As far as performance is concerned, CFM is the only thing that matters.
Fitment issues, I grant you , is another story and obviously needs to be researched.
The hotside of the turbo is a little more complicated and there you might need to trust the combination of opinions from vendors and other users.
If you ask for a high flow turbo that spools up quickly and somebody points to a certain turbo, you are either being lied to or it's a very expensive variable nozzle turbocharger. The consensus is that BB turbos are also supposed to be good for that, but I don't know. In general, you can't have it both ways. You can try to research something out as close as possible.
#23
UAE Rennlist Ambassador
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here is what i found:
Kokeln "Club" Turbo (785CFM @ 1 bar / 857 peak)
Kokeln "Street" Turbo (657CFM @ 1 bar / 695 peak)
The "Super 61" utilizes a 61# per minute compressor wheel packed in a TO4B. Your choice of wet (water jacketed) or dry (oil cooled) frames. You also have the option of 8 centimeter squared (#8) or 10 centimeter squared (#10) hot housing. This turbo is capable of 610 HP and flows 899 CFM @ 1 bar.
The "Super 65" utilizes a 65# per minute 61mm compressor wheel packed in a TO4E. Your choice of wet (water jacketed) or dry (oil cooled) frames. You also have the option of 8 centimeter squared (#8) or 10 centimeter squared (#10) hot housing. This turbo is capable of 650 HP and flows 943 CFM @ 1 bar.
The "Super 75" utilizes a 75# per minute 67mm compressor wheel packed in a TO4E. Your choice of wet (water jacketed) or dry (oil cooled) frames. You also have the option of 8 centimeter squared (#8) or 10 centimeter squared (#10) hot housing. This turbo is capable of 750 HP and flows 1088 CFM @ 1 bar.
Kokeln "Club" Turbo (785CFM @ 1 bar / 857 peak)
Kokeln "Street" Turbo (657CFM @ 1 bar / 695 peak)
The "Super 61" utilizes a 61# per minute compressor wheel packed in a TO4B. Your choice of wet (water jacketed) or dry (oil cooled) frames. You also have the option of 8 centimeter squared (#8) or 10 centimeter squared (#10) hot housing. This turbo is capable of 610 HP and flows 899 CFM @ 1 bar.
The "Super 65" utilizes a 65# per minute 61mm compressor wheel packed in a TO4E. Your choice of wet (water jacketed) or dry (oil cooled) frames. You also have the option of 8 centimeter squared (#8) or 10 centimeter squared (#10) hot housing. This turbo is capable of 650 HP and flows 943 CFM @ 1 bar.
The "Super 75" utilizes a 75# per minute 67mm compressor wheel packed in a TO4E. Your choice of wet (water jacketed) or dry (oil cooled) frames. You also have the option of 8 centimeter squared (#8) or 10 centimeter squared (#10) hot housing. This turbo is capable of 750 HP and flows 1088 CFM @ 1 bar.
#25
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Not one person has mentioned that it depends on the application and your goals for the car, so I will. It depends on what you want from the car. The very best thing to do is call someone like Tim@Speedforce, John@Vitesse, Scott@UnderPressure and talk to them for a few minutes a piece. They are all listers, all good people, and all knowledgeable.
For instance, I bought a T04E about as big as they come and I am 99% sure it is not going to be enough turbo. Now I have a brand new turbo that I will take a loss on, when I could have spent my money better.
If your goals are moderate then a K27-6 is plenty of turbo, at a lower price and bolt in fitment.
For more power I think the T04E is a great value (they can be had virutally anywhere for 850-950, Majestic, Turbonetics, TEC, etc.)
For the most power a true dual BB turbo like GT-25 with custom DP would probably be the way to go.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
For instance, I bought a T04E about as big as they come and I am 99% sure it is not going to be enough turbo. Now I have a brand new turbo that I will take a loss on, when I could have spent my money better.
If your goals are moderate then a K27-6 is plenty of turbo, at a lower price and bolt in fitment.
For more power I think the T04E is a great value (they can be had virutally anywhere for 850-950, Majestic, Turbonetics, TEC, etc.)
For the most power a true dual BB turbo like GT-25 with custom DP would probably be the way to go.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
#26
Drive-by provocation guy
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NAS PAX River, by way of Orlando
Posts: 10,439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"Garrett makes a KKK replica turbine housing that is just a smidge bigger than a #8"
I think I finally found out what my "mystery turbo" is
I think I finally found out what my "mystery turbo" is
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#28
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Any turbo rebuilder on earth can do it. Majestic does it for 700ish, IIRC. There are others. Hosrom, there should be a number of turbo places local that can do it for the right amount of Dinar. Lord knows there are enough turbo trucks around there.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
#29
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Turbo lesson #1 - Don't go with the biggest turbo you can find.
Turbos like 60-1's are so big, the 2.5L will have a super small rev range (4800-7000rpm). Sure it'll be able to flow tons of power, but the rev range will be so narrow, without cams, you'll be off peak boost after every shift. It'll work for a heavily modified car like TonyG's but you're gonna hate it once it gets into your car. Turbos that big really turn the 2.5L cars into dyno queens, horrible for daily use.
I ran a 57 trim T04E on my stock cammed 2.5L, and had to power shift through the gears to maintain peak boost. In the slower 2nd gear corners at the track, I got raped by the NA cars coming out because the car was off boost and took so revs to spool. On the street, it wasn't very fun.
Turbos like 60-1's are so big, the 2.5L will have a super small rev range (4800-7000rpm). Sure it'll be able to flow tons of power, but the rev range will be so narrow, without cams, you'll be off peak boost after every shift. It'll work for a heavily modified car like TonyG's but you're gonna hate it once it gets into your car. Turbos that big really turn the 2.5L cars into dyno queens, horrible for daily use.
I ran a 57 trim T04E on my stock cammed 2.5L, and had to power shift through the gears to maintain peak boost. In the slower 2nd gear corners at the track, I got raped by the NA cars coming out because the car was off boost and took so revs to spool. On the street, it wasn't very fun.
#30
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What do you suggest then for the street? Anyone care to comment on a to4b with a #6 hotside compared to a #8 hotside. I have the 6 now and was thinking about going to the 8. It is a 57 trim bb.