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Who has an APEXI AVCR

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Old 07-09-2004 | 11:25 PM
  #31  
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944Willie
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From: Great Pacific Northwest
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Billgot, you have a PM
Old 07-09-2004 | 11:33 PM
  #32  
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Magown
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From: Madison, MS
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I can't believe how difficult this thing is to set up. My HKS EVC IV is so simple. It practically sets it's self up. Just wish it had gear based boost.
Old 07-10-2004 | 12:31 AM
  #33  
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Danno
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It's not hard to set up, just that there's so many ways of doing it and they don't include the Porsche 951 method in the manual.

"He told me I need to swap the NO with the NC I am so confused "

That's correct because the plastic cap should be on the NC port. The confusing thing may be that due to the intelligence of the AVC-R, you can hook it up ANY way you want, NC to wastegate or NO to wastegate in either single or dual-port mode and it would know what to do. However, the various ways of hooking it up gives different degrees of performance.

" I understand from your reply that I have my EBC and Tial hooked up wrong, but I don´t really understand how I should change it to get it right."

You don't have it hooked up wrong, it's just not as optimal as you can have it. Just that the way your diagram is configured gives no additional benefits over a manual pressure-regulator in dual-port configuration. You end up with always a little pressure going into the bottom of the wastegate, thus you can never have full spring-pressure clamping the wasteagte shut.

Also, you don't have a failure-safe mode in case the controller, or wiring or solenoid has a failure. The way those guys mentioned is the safest and also the best performing as well. It goes like this:

BANJO-BOLT --> COM port on Solenoid --> NO port on solenoid --> Tial side-port

Leave the top of the diaphragm open to atmosphere with a short hose (to prevent contamination). This way, you are able to achieve full spring-pressure on the diaphragm to keep the valve fully closed UNTIL your desired boost-pressure has been achieved. Boost build-up will be much faster.

You also have a fail-safe mode where if you cut power to the controller and/or clip or short the wires on the solenoid, it would send full boost directly to the wastegate to open it. This also happens to be the way the stock system is hooked up as well. Not to mention that the Ferrari F40 uses the same configuration with the same Bosch cycling-valve!!!

The best method would be with dual-solenoids. You hook up a T to the line coming out of the banjo-bolt to split it near the solenoids. Each side of the T will then feed the COM port on each solenoid. Hook up one solenoid's NC port with the top of the Tial's diaphragm and hook up the other solenoid's NO port to the side port on the Tial. This is similar to a pull-pull cable set-up where you don't even need a spring to hold the valve closed (like the throttle on motorcycles). In fact, this is the ONLY way of hooking up a dual-port wastegate such that boost pressure is used in ADDITION to the spring-tension to hold the valve closed.
Old 07-10-2004 | 12:54 AM
  #34  
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tazman
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From: Reading PA
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Originally posted by Danno

BANJO-BOLT --> COM port on Solenoid --> NO port on solenoid --> Tial side-port

My understanding is you should go BANJO-BOLT --> NO port on solenoid --> COM port on Solenoid --> Tial side-port This way when the solenoid is activated the air in the line going to the waste gate can be vented out the NC port on the solenoid so the waste gate can close quicker. This acts like the bleed hole on the reliaboost.



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