macnewma

I just purchased a used set of suspension parts from a fellow Rennlister:

Front Struts with Koni/Paragon inserts installed
Paragon/Ground Control adjustable ride height kit
Front aluminum control arms with M030 Caster blocks (lower mileage than mine)
Rear Koni adjustable shocks
400 lbs Eibach 2.5" front springs
30mm torsion bars

Here are a few questions I have:

1. What bushings should I replace while I am installing everything?
2. Which of these bushings can I upgrade to a better material (but still keep it streetable...no solid bushings)
3. I am thinking about holding off on the torsion bar swap until I have more time. In the mean time, what set of front springs should I get to match my 86 951 rear torsion bars?
4. What should I use for a parts cleaner? Brake cleaner? Castrol superclean?
5. Any other tips before I tackle this? Any special tools or secrets?

Thanks all...I couldn't do it without ya!

Max

macnewma

Is there anybody OUT there?

JPR

Hi Max,

Ill give this a try:

1&2= try to install new 968 type caster block; less rubber, more precise. try to get swaybar bushings of the delrin variety to allow for less deflection and better response (at a very small cost of ride). Try the tarrett eng. front swaybar brackets, much better than OEM.

3=There is no substitute for matching front and rear rates. Stock, the car is pretty much set up for understeer to counteract the onset of boost on early throttle on a corner. if you go past the stock rate, you will only accentuate this tendency. However, most of the cars that upgrade only the front, go with 250 lb/in springs.

4.- stay with brake cleaner and diesel. superclean reacts with aluminum and may etch it.

cheers

Jpr

macnewma

Thanks JPR!

The caster blocks that will be installed are the 968 style. I will get swaybar bushings in delrin...any others?

I agree that matching front and rear is vital. The 400lbs and 30mm should match...but due to time, I would rather hold off on the torsion bar swap. In the mean time, I will need a front spring to replace my stock one due to the Ground Control kit and new spring hat.

Should it be 200# front to match the stock 86 Turbo rear? BTW, what size torsions are in the rear on my 86?

Max

macnewma

Also, I assume I would need something like a Eibach racing spring or a Hypercoil in 2.5", right?

Max

M758

Max,
You can probabyl put in the 400's in the front if you use crank the welt rear sway full stiff. I may still handle poorly, but not that bad.

I also have procedure to install t-bars and re-index. It has worked for others in 1 try.

http://members.rennlist.com/m758/TbarReindex.htm

macnewma

Yeah, I don't trust the 400 in the front with stock t-bars. I would either buy some weaker front springs temporarily or just wait and install the whole shebang.

How long would you estimate it would take a 1st timer to install t-bars assuming it is indexed in the first try from your spreadsheet? Also include time to replace any replaceable bushings back there.

Thanks,
Max

M758

Well for a first timer...
A weekend if you were not replacing bushings. Add more if you are as the spring plate bushings are bonded on and are a struggle to get off.

macnewma

I was thinking about replacing the spring plate bushings with the Racer's Edge delrin pieces.

Are there instructions for how to remove and replace those? What do you mean by bonded on? Bonded on by the factory or over time?

Max

Skip Wolfe

The rubber spring plate bushings will be bonded on and can be somewhat of a PITA to remove. I used a utility knife to section it into a bunch of different peices and then a wood chisel and hammer to chisel of the individual slices. I then used the utility knife to carve of as much of the remaining rubber as possible and then a wire wheel on a drill to get down to bare metal. Not to bad once I got the hang of things.

macnewma

Thanks Skip,

I did some searching and found a few different methods...using propane sounds fun

Max