tazman

Ok I used one of my free hours today that I got from winning the dyno competition the other week. I did some tuning and I did a run at 16psi to compare to my old dyno chart.

My old chart.


The new one at 16psi.


The one the from other week that needed some tuning.


Two from today while tuning at 18psi.



Now my observation is that A/F ratio between 13:1 and a little below 12:1 does not seem to make much of a difference. I was shooting for the 300RWHP mark but it looks like the only way to do that would be to turn the boost up to around 20PSI but I am worried the intake temps would get to high. On a 30 deg C day I usually see an inlet temp of around 40 deg C after a run at 18PSI unless the I was stopped and the intake temps would climb to 40 deg C then it would jump to about 53 deg C. Is there a certain temperature I should try not to exceed or as long as there is no nock it's all good???

CPTdooberhead

Are you running a stock turbo? I'd be impressed if you were able to make 300rwhp on it...
Im impressed with your AF curve though.

tazman

Yes I am still running the stock 26/8 turbo. Some people with the Guru map kit have made 300RWHP but I think my main problem is the stock cat and down pipe yet. I want to change them but then if I go to a true Garret the flange won't be right.

I can assure you it has taken me a lot of work to get that A/F curve.
Thanks!

Jake951

Tazman,

That's a good result. It's very close to what I got with my setup (also K26/8 @ 18 psi) and it's essentially the same when you consider the margin of error between different dyno's.

From the data you've shown before, I believe you're holding 18 psi all the way to redline with EBC and the Tial. Mine drops off from 18 psi peak to 15 psi by redline. Did you ever run the Tial with MBC and was it able to hold 18 psi to redline? I'm trying to figure out what it takes to keep my boost up.

HD911

You will be well over 300 rwhp if you go with a testpipe.

slim_boy_fat

I think 300rwhp is pushing it with the standard injectors, you might just make it with the 26/8.

I believe its a MAP kit and a set of 55lb injetors you really need to get that kind of power.

Your figures are right at the top end, superbe A/F there mate.

Magown

Tom, that's looking good my friend, how much base fuel pressure are you running also what kind of max duty cycles and injector pulse widths are you seeing? How does it idle.

tazman

Jake951 I never ran the tial without the EBC. The tial is definitely a step in the right direction for you from what I have read here you will just have some variances in boost on hot and cold days with a MBC but it should hold that boost to redline.

HD911 I know a testpipe would really help but I want to keep a cat. I want to finish the rest of the exhaust with 3" downpipe and cat but I can't decide what direction I want to go when I do the turbo which could mean a different flange on the downpipe.

slim_boy I think my 75-lb/hr injectors and Tec3 can handle it and I know the 26/8 can hit 20PSI but I don't know if things will be fine like that for the long run.

I am having trouble deciding on my next step at this time. I want to wait on the turbo until I get a chance to open the engine for a refresh to see if I end up going to a 3.0L or something. I probably won't open the engine up for another two years though. Maybe I should do water injection and turn up the boost a little more? I think I will ask Tim from SFR if the downpipe he makes for the true Garrets would work on a stock setup with an adapter then that would leave my options open turbo wise.

I appreciate the input guys!

tazman

Thanks Stephen!
I am running 38PSI fuel pressure and I see a max of 70% duty cycle. At idle the duty cycle is around 2% and the pulse width is around 1.2. Idle is pretty good but not as rock solid as factory.

Laust Pedersen

I certainly think that going with (port) water injection would be a good idea, expecially if you have a 3D General Purpose Output (GPO) available on the TEC3.

Yes, it is very difficult to make the idle stable on the TEC and almost impossible if you have all the control options active (ISM, timing, AFR), do you have an ISM?.
I believe and would recommend that TEC3 can/should run open loop at idle.

eclou

Nice numbers!

tazman

I have the ability to run water injection using a 3D map just like the fuel map on the Tec3. I talked to Chris a little about it and he was suggesting the use of a fuel injector right after the throttle body. Will water injection give me more power at the same boost pressure or wil I be useing it as a means to run more boost? I think if I would do water injection I would also run something in front of the intercooler to help with heat soak on the intercooler.

I do have an ISM but have some issues of it not working all of the time that have to be worked out yet. I always get these mixed up when you say open loop you mean it should not use the O2 sensor and do corrections?

Thanks

Magown

Tom, did cleaning up your a/f's make your map sensor readings level out?

tazman

Stephen the A/F ratio had nothing to do with the map readings I got on that first dyno run. The problem was I do my tuning in third gear on the street because of the speeds hit in fourth at redline and the AVC-R takes a couple of runs in each gear to get its gear specific boost curve learned. Here are the data logs from the second 18psi run you will notice my A/F ratios are a little richer then the dynos and I think that is because of the dynos being in the tail pipe.

hosrom_951

Great job on the a/f ratio. Nice and steady, the stock turbo and injectors CAN hit 300whp. But with proper tuning ofcourse. If you were to hit 20psi or more, that is when larger injectors would be needed, right?