Price so far?

 

By the way, what is spike? and if you do not want to use the CV, how does this bypass it? from the IC directly to the wastegate?

 

I just took some more information on this Accuboost. So, it is a manual boost controler AND a boost enhancer at the same time. I am sorry for asking silly/stupid questions, but I'm fairly new to the boosting world. It sits where the banjo bolt is on the IC pipe, and continues all the way to the wastegate correct? So, in order to get the right boost levels, you need a boost gauge inside the car correct?

 

You are right, but to get the right boostlevel, the stock gauge is OK as long as you don't plan on running more than 1BAR. Some say that the stock gauge is inaccurate and recommend installing a new gauge. I have an autometer gauge installed and it shows the same as the stock gauge. Running more than 1BAR is quite common, and looks to be quite safe. If you plan on doing this, you need a new gauge. The Autometer gauge has much better resolution than the stock gauge, and thus is easier to use when setting correct boost. I think I paid less than $50 for my gauge from egauges.com. Might as well get one.

 

Thanks for the info, but what is boost spike?

 

Then this means that it would replace the cycling valve? then where do the other vacuum hoses get connected to?

 

A boost spike is when you are running 16psi and when some controllers close the waste gate quickly and are slow to open it back up you get a spike up to 18psi or something like that.

When you get rid of the cycling valve there is on extra line that is connected to the Jboot before the turbo that you must cap off. Your new boost controller is connected between the banjo bolt and the wategate then.

 

Ok, on stock cars, vacuum from wastegate to cycling valve. Then vacuum from cycling valve to banjo bolt on IC, then another vacuum from cycling valve to J-boot? The vacuum to J-boot goes through the metal vacuum tube under the manifold right? if that is true, what about the electrical connector for the cycling valve?cut it and put some electrical tape? leave it? and yes, the end of the metal vacuum tube for the cycling valve could have to be blocked? as well as the one for the J-boot you mentioned?

 

Yes from the Jboot it goes to the meta tube. If you just plug it at the Jboot you do not have to worry about any of the connections left open on the metal tube. When I did mine I just left the electrical connection tucked under the manifold out of the way.

 

Thnaks a LOT for the info. What is this infamous option on the accuboost?

 

the option is the ceramic upgrade. the ball bearing is ceramic instead of metal for quicker responce and whatnot. as for the metal lines, you can remove them if you pull the cycling valve. if you going that far, i think you may need to do the complete veturi delete. its easy and clears up a lot of clutter under your manifold.
~Eyal

 

Where can i get the venturi kit? and how much extra is the ceramic upgrade?

 

Can we order now, Eyal or do we wait and order all at once?

 

The upgrade is 5 dollars it is mentioned earlier in this post

Ed

 

We need this conversion kit, right?