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Diagnosis help please

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Old 06-14-2004, 04:14 AM
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Ahmet
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Default Diagnosis help please

The problem I'm having is the car stumbling when loaded highly (usually happens when at full throttle/around or above 14psi). There's only a narrow band 02 readout installed in the car, and it dithers around lean/stoich when this happens. The car *sounds* and *feels* like it's lean but I cannot be sure.

I've tried swapping the DME and KLR as well as the alarm control module, which made no difference. My initial guess was the fuel pump, and I will try swapping that when I get around to it, for the time being I guess I won't be hitting too much boost...

I would appreciate any input.
Ahmet
Old 06-14-2004, 08:30 AM
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Ski
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Ahmet, if you have a multi meter, ohm out the injector leads with the DME harness wires 14 and 15(1-2, 14 and 3-4, 15 IIRC), check to make sure you have good continuity or if you have any resistance. There was someone a couple of months ago who was having a similar problem and he had a cracked wire at the back of the harness where we all bend it if we take the fuel rail off.

Sometimes a high speed stumble has been associated with TOO much fuel...got any black smoke behind you when this happens?
Old 06-14-2004, 08:47 AM
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hosrom_951
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I had a 'similar' problem, which accelerating (full throttle) does it accelerate to higher rpms smoothly or do you feel itr cutting out? if so, then it is the TPS
Old 06-14-2004, 09:38 AM
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Sami951
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It probably goes slightly lean somewhere... I'm sure everybody agrees the narrow band O2 isn't very accurate, but it will tell you if you're above or below the stoich ratio -> should read somewhat rich all the time you're on boost/accelerating fast.

Do you have any means of adding fuel to that spot?

Maybe you're going slightly lean, getting some knock -> DME retards ignition, and that gives the stumbling feeling..?
Old 06-14-2004, 03:59 PM
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jim944s2
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Up in the 924/931/944/951 discussion page, it seems a guy had a similar problem, it's under the heading 'everyone, accelleration problem solved' (or something similar). It's a bit cryptic, but it seems a replaced air-flow meter solved his problem.
Old 06-15-2004, 05:53 AM
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OZ951
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Hows your FPR ?, if its an adjustable FPR check that the pressure setting hasn't backed off. Is your static fuel pressure OK ? You can also do a static test of your fuel pump delivery volume. I dont have the delivery rate specs on hand but they are around.
Old 06-15-2004, 07:09 AM
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Ahmet
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I have a 3 bar FPR, and right now no way of checking it. I really don't want to throw parts at the car to figure out what's wrong but I do have a fuel pump I can try... It's certainly getting worse, also seems that when the car's cold it'll let me do a few full throttle runs, and seems to get worse if the car stays on for a while.
Ahmet
Old 06-15-2004, 09:38 AM
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eclou
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Does it always happen at the same rpm (peak torque)? I had the same issue with a healthy AFR - turned out that I was getting some pinging/pre-detonation so the following was done to prevent pre-ignition on a hot car:

1)colder plugs - the NGR BPR7ES
2)smaller plug gap - to .020
3)octane boost
4)heavy concentrated FI cleaner

between those 4 things, my car quickly stopped all the stumbling. BTW the narrow band AFR (I have the Rennbay one) is totally useless
Old 06-15-2004, 11:25 AM
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TPS?
Old 06-15-2004, 09:19 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Spark plug wires can cause high-load problems. How old are your wires? How is the cap and rotor, and plugs?
Old 06-15-2004, 11:34 PM
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Ahmet
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TPS/Wires are about a year old. I will check cap/rotor (which are older but no older than 2 years, however missing the dust cap). I'm running colder plugs, less boost than I have before (by at least 3 lbs) on the same octane gas (93).

Problem does NOT happen at the same rpm, and when the car's cold sometimes it doesn't happen at all for some time.
Ahmet
Old 06-16-2004, 06:29 AM
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Danno
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"when the car's cold sometimes it doesn't happen at all for some time."

Sounds like a lean condition if it doesn't happen when cold. That's because the DME gives you a tonne of extra fuel if it sees cold air from the air-temp sensor.

"The problem I'm having is the car stumbling when loaded highly (usually happens when at full throttle/around or above 14psi). "

Actually at this load-level, the fuel-mappings should be adquately rich. So a lean mixture is definitely not it. Did anything change with your car's configuration between the earlier time when it was working to now?

I suspect an ignition misfire. Probably due to the richer mixture now since you're running less boost than before. One thing that may help is to reduce spark-plug gap down to about 0.025".

Also helps to get a hotter spark by putting a condenser (capacitor) on the ignition coil. This stores up a charge from the battery as the coil's charging. Then after the coil's fired, the capacitor discharges its stored current into the coil faster than the battery can. Gives a quicker charge to the coil and makes a difference at high-RPMs when the coil doesn't have enough time to fully charge. You can pick these condensors up at any auto-parts places. Bolt the body of the condensor to the coil-clamp bolt. Then the single lead coming out of the condensor goes to the +12v supply post on the coil (larger one with black wire).

What version are your GURU chips? I think you have v8. The latest v9 are programmed with extra coil-dwell time in the upper-RPMs to get a hotter spark as well. Why are you running less boost than before?
Old 06-16-2004, 01:57 PM
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Ahmet
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It's been doing it today more erradically, including when the car was colder... I still haven't had time to check anything, but I will start w/the cap and rotor.

I'm running less boost simply because I can't build the full boost because of this runability problem. The wastegate's getting a bit tired, but another one's on the way.

I believe I do have version 8 chips at the moment. It's a bit jerky in the mid range at full and part throttle (it's been this way since the chips, and doesn't have anything to do w/the current problem), I believe either ignition or air/fuel's a bit off. Anyway, it's funny that I'm hosting a dyno day this weekend and my own car may not be there... If I can fix it by then, I'll know about the "stumble", but like I said the two aren't related and I need to fix this issue first...
Ahmet
Old 06-17-2004, 04:49 AM
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Ahmet
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Update;

It was the coil to distributor wire @ the coil. It had pretty much corroded itself to pieces, INSIDE the wire. I will be calling magnacore tomorrow... They were about two years old.
Ahmet
Old 06-17-2004, 04:53 AM
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Ahmet
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Oh, and thanks for all the input guys, I certainly do appreciate it.
Ahmet


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