Yeah, Dave didn't really seem to know much about suspension setup, thats why I have those 250lb rear springs, and when I ordered them, he sent me 7" springs which were way too short without the torsion bars, so I needed to get 9" springs for the back.

Turbite, how stiff does your car handle on the street, because I might just opt for your setup instead of trying to figure something out and screw up my next DE. Also, do you run those 550lb springs with torsion bars or did you delete them?

Skip, thanks for the info

 

I deleted the t-bars.
I really like the 400/550, but I've only tried them for about 5 laps before I threw a rod. So I don't really know about how they are on track.

I would read the thread I posted and make an educated decision about what you want.

Also, as a word of general caution, don't let the anonimity of the internet fool you into thinking I know what I'm talking about. I just made my decisions with a handful of DE's, talking to a bunch of people, and reading a lot.

As far as the street. I don't mind them; its stiff but its not a daily driver. You can feel the little tar patches over cracks on the street. I love it.

 

Thanks fo the advise, I'm going to do a whole lot more research before making my decision.

One thing though, is the rear effective rate multiplier .50 or .56 for deleted T-bars? From what I've seen, .50 is without T-bars and .56 is in combination with them. I just can't believe that the rear is only 50% effective without T-bars!

 

The effective rate multiplier is the same both with and without the tbars. Its is essentially a geometry issue. To get 100%, the coilover would have to mount directly to the hub. The farther away from the center on the hub the mounting point is the smaller the multiplier. So the front strut mounts very close to the hub so it has a very high multiplier. The rear mounts on the trailing arm a ways away from the hub, consequently the smaller multiplier.

 

550 front , No t-bars, 650 rear. a little stiff on the street but awesome at speed on the track with the Moton clubsport shocks

 

Pete, I need to replace the front shocks, so I was going to just put the full Escort setup on the car, meaning I would have to buy the front shocks AND springs, as the Cup Car springs would not work with those Escort front coilovers.

Why do you think the 250lb springs should work well? From what everyone else is saying, they're too soft because I didn't factor in the effective rate of the springs. When I change the front, I'll have the Cup Car springs on sale.

 

I think there's a lot of confusion because a lot of people consider "full coilovers" to include the torsion bar. (After all they are still coilovers)
A lot of people leave them in to be in a lower class.

I think people who run more spring in front have their torsion bars still.
I used to run 400 front - 300 back + stock t-bar, and it sucked, but party because the 300 lbs spring was too short to be effective till under massive amount of load.

 

turbite, I ordered my suspension but Lindsey didn't have the front springs in stock, where did you order yours from, where else could I find 9" 400lb. 2.25" Eibach Springs?