Mike1982

I have an air/fuel gauge, I have it hooked in as well but it goes up and down when driving. I am looking at getting either a wbo2 or hooking it up so it doesn't do that. Can ANYONE help on here? I have it hooked up to the o2 off the wires that come from it. Then I ran the wires back into the car under the fuse box, pretty easy to do once you get the fuse box out and then it just drops down, easy to get in there.

kevin Dubois

air fuel ratio meters do that. i think i came to the conclusion that those gauges are for the most part useless (i have the autometer). you will only get a semi-useful reading under full throttle, and even then it is not worth much. the wideband O2 sensors will give you a much better reading because in the zietronix case, it gives a numeric reading, and it should not bounce around.

Chas

Can't seem to find the documentation for my wb02 setup. Mine is from PLX Devices...and I know for sure that it draws at least 2amps on any cold temp. startup, and has the potential to draw upwards of 4. I would highly recommend going for a wbo2 kit....so much more accurate.

rhesus

Mine was solid green, verified by a multimeter.

krutschman1

Isn't the stripe color listed second? In my case, the radio "hot" was white/green. Don't quote me on that, that was yesterday when I tied into it. Kary

rhesus

yep, stripe listed 2nd

kasturbo

So which one is it? We now have three differant wires list for radio power. Also can you get to the wiring with out pulling the radio out?

Chas

Since the PO did a hack job on my stereo, I'm not sure which color wire it is...just get in there with a voltmeter and see where you get power when ignition is applied.

Now, usually you can pull out the "cubby" tray that takes up the DIN right below the stereo, and "sometimes" get to the wires...you can also take off the side trim of the center console area...but if you really want to see what you are doing and do it right (what I did), pull the radio, tray, and side panels. Gives you plenty of room to arrange everything properly and make it look good!

krutschman1

The radio pwr is 2.5mm, so it is quite a bit larger than the rest of the wires (only 1mm). Kary

Swedish Meatball

Hmm I'm a car electrical newbie - the easiest solution to this problem is of course caping the power to the radio instead of the dme. But would thhat one single power line handle my radio, my ebc and my zeitronix?? I guess I should change the fuse as well then? Or should I "simply" try routing it to the fuse box instead? That seems kinda complicated since I can't figure out how to pull the power line through the firwall on that side of the car..

Swedish Meatball

Hmm what have all you guys used for power source for the zeitronix? I guess I'll go with the radio power.. Maybe I can also install a switch for the zeitronix since I won't be using it all the time

ibkevin

Wow-great post to resurrect!

I was hoping to get my zt2 done in a week or two and I have in my notes to use pin 18, now I'll use the radio hot. I used the clock hot to power the EBC. Disassembled the clock plug, soldered and heat shrinked the connection, and reassembled the plug. I'm pretty **** about my electrical connections because they are typically painfull enough to do the first time.

Running additional leads to the bottom of the fuse block is mostly a matter of "routing" your lead to the opening, the fuse block bottom is open to the insde of the car. Once again, a real PITA for just one lead.

toddk911

Where did you tap your RPM reading for the Zeitronix?