3" downpipe nightmare!
#1
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I have had on hell of a time putting my sfr 3" downpipe in. First I had to pound in the sides of the pipe where the turbo studs come out just to get the nuts on.
Second the pipe with a new crush ring will not go all the way flush with the turbo housing eg. you can just barely see a little light around the connection. But the nuts have all the ft. lb. of torque I can put on them, they are really tight
Third when trying to install the turbo back into the car the flange that mates to the testpipe is too big and hits the crossover so now I cant even get the turbo to sit right!
Has anyone else that has this downpipe had these problems??? And will it be ok to just leave the connection at the turbo as is or will I have a bad exhaust leak??
Thanks for any info
Second the pipe with a new crush ring will not go all the way flush with the turbo housing eg. you can just barely see a little light around the connection. But the nuts have all the ft. lb. of torque I can put on them, they are really tight
Third when trying to install the turbo back into the car the flange that mates to the testpipe is too big and hits the crossover so now I cant even get the turbo to sit right!
Has anyone else that has this downpipe had these problems??? And will it be ok to just leave the connection at the turbo as is or will I have a bad exhaust leak??
Thanks for any info
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You can't use it unless it is on correctly. A gap doesn't cut it.
First get in touch with SFR. If no help there, pull the turbo and pipe and diagnose the problem on the floor where you can evaluate the cause better. There is no choice but do it right.
First get in touch with SFR. If no help there, pull the turbo and pipe and diagnose the problem on the floor where you can evaluate the cause better. There is no choice but do it right.
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I am using the 14mm hex locking nuts. And the turbo and pipe are out of the car. If I take the crush ring out the pipe will fit flush. With the ring in I cant get it to sit flush even with the nuts on REALLY tight. Also the nuts are so close to the edge of the pipe I have to use an open end wrench even with the wall of the pipe bent in a little.
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#10
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Well, if the parts fit flush without the crush ring then they are OK. the rings that I have used are quite soft and squeeze pretty easily. They are sheet metal rolled with an overlap. You can see the edge all around.
Can you possibly have a solid ring that doesn't crush? Is it possible the the bottom of the groove is filled with rust or ? I can't think of anything else that it could be.
Can you possibly have a solid ring that doesn't crush? Is it possible the the bottom of the groove is filled with rust or ? I can't think of anything else that it could be.
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Im sure I dont have a solid ring. There is no rust either as it is a new downpipe. My best guess is that the nuts arent sitting flush aginst the flange on the downpipe due to the spacing between the studs and wall of the pipe. Is there a right way to put the ring in?? I have the overlap facing the downpipe.
#12
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You should have gotten some allen heads with the downpipe to replace the stock studs in the hotside.Do not pound the thing or beat it with a hammer:^) The thing bolts on very easily once you remove the stock studs and have the hardware.You can always call or send an email if you run into problems or have questions.I only get a chance to check out the list late at night or early in the morning so it is best to get ahold of me at the shop.
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Originally posted by Brett
Tim I only recieved 3 Allens so I assumed that thoes were for the connection between downpipe and testpipe.
Tim I only recieved 3 Allens so I assumed that thoes were for the connection between downpipe and testpipe.
Then you need four more to do the install correctly. I will send those out.