Pros and Cons - LR Maxx Chip set with 3.0 FPR
#1
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Hi all,
I've been on here for some time so some of you may have seen a post or two. I have had my 1986 951 since my pops bought it for us as a fun car in 1995, and mine is still going strong. We bought it back then from Brumos Porsche in Jacksonville, FL, and was owned at the time by the owner as his daily driver. It had an Autothority chip, MAF system, and no Catalytic converter. When my dad got it back up to DC, We had some fun with it as is, but I got into a little fender bender, and he converted it back to stock (had Autothority chips taken out, CC put back in, but left the MAF).
We maintained it together for almost 30 years now, and recently I determined we need a new clutch. While the crossover pipe and wastegate are out, Im going to have my guy install a new LR wastegate - my first question is what is the difference between the dual port and club gate wastegates? Which would be best given the following:
I recently decided to be nostalgic, and purchased the LR Instant RWHP Kit, with LR chips, 3.0 FPR, and wastegate shims. Outside of rebuilding my turbo through LR with their compressor wheel, I do not plan to further modify....I do not want nor need more than 300 HP. Are there any disadvantages to putting these performance chips in, risks, etc. Be advised I DO NOT drive the car super hard...I like to get it up on and off ramps, etc. But, I remember how much better the acceleration was when the autothority chips were in, and would like to get it back to that, or close to it.
Thanks in advance for any input on the pros/cons, and which wastegate to use!
I've been on here for some time so some of you may have seen a post or two. I have had my 1986 951 since my pops bought it for us as a fun car in 1995, and mine is still going strong. We bought it back then from Brumos Porsche in Jacksonville, FL, and was owned at the time by the owner as his daily driver. It had an Autothority chip, MAF system, and no Catalytic converter. When my dad got it back up to DC, We had some fun with it as is, but I got into a little fender bender, and he converted it back to stock (had Autothority chips taken out, CC put back in, but left the MAF).
We maintained it together for almost 30 years now, and recently I determined we need a new clutch. While the crossover pipe and wastegate are out, Im going to have my guy install a new LR wastegate - my first question is what is the difference between the dual port and club gate wastegates? Which would be best given the following:
I recently decided to be nostalgic, and purchased the LR Instant RWHP Kit, with LR chips, 3.0 FPR, and wastegate shims. Outside of rebuilding my turbo through LR with their compressor wheel, I do not plan to further modify....I do not want nor need more than 300 HP. Are there any disadvantages to putting these performance chips in, risks, etc. Be advised I DO NOT drive the car super hard...I like to get it up on and off ramps, etc. But, I remember how much better the acceleration was when the autothority chips were in, and would like to get it back to that, or close to it.
Thanks in advance for any input on the pros/cons, and which wastegate to use!
#2
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My understanding is the wastegate shims are for old wastegates with weak spring; you shim it and bring some tension back.
My buddy ran the MAXX chips.. and I use the A-Tune (both available from LR). I find the MAXX more punchy and the A-Tune smoother. A-Tune uses an additionalMAF EDIT: MAP but the rest is stock AFM. Not sure if you still have the stock system to re-install?
None of these modifications are serious changes that will damage anything, except for maybe a boost control misadjusted (too much boost), if in fact you are putting one in as part of the kit.
At this age, and after these mild mods, focus on wires, condition of the ECU/DME, etc., etc.
My buddy ran the MAXX chips.. and I use the A-Tune (both available from LR). I find the MAXX more punchy and the A-Tune smoother. A-Tune uses an additional
None of these modifications are serious changes that will damage anything, except for maybe a boost control misadjusted (too much boost), if in fact you are putting one in as part of the kit.
At this age, and after these mild mods, focus on wires, condition of the ECU/DME, etc., etc.
Last edited by Dan Martinic; 02-04-2023 at 07:52 PM.
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I don't know what you have there... looks like a stock AFM with the airbox removed & replaced with a cone filter (odd choice--the stock airbox draws cold air from outside the fender and this draws very warm air from the engine)
How do you know you have an MAF sensor? If you do in fact have an MAF there, you would have modified chip(s) too
How do you know you have an MAF sensor? If you do in fact have an MAF there, you would have modified chip(s) too
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I think because when my dad bought it it had Autothority chips and a MAF sensor. My dad ended up having the chips removed (and the catalytic converter reinstalled) but didn't alter anything with the air flow. Again, I think. When I have the LR chips and 3.0 FPR installed I guess I'll know more, my guy has worked on 944s and 928s for like 30 years so I'm sure he will know. I'm having this done in a couple weeks when I do the clutch. The wastegate will be out so I'm preplacing with a LR clubsport one. I intend to have the turbo rebuilt st some point but sticking with stock k26.
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I don't think you have an MAF sensor: perhaps I'm wrong, but I believe Autothority chips worked with the stock system..? And, an MAF conversion would not work with stock chips that your father put back in ?
LR has two RWHP kits. One uses an MAF https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Par...-400-RWHP.html the other does not https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/944PDIRWHP.html
If you are installing the second "instant" kit, you need the stock AFM--which I believe you have (with a cone filter attached to it). FYI this kit will be very nice & quick feeling
LR has two RWHP kits. One uses an MAF https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Par...-400-RWHP.html the other does not https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/944PDIRWHP.html
If you are installing the second "instant" kit, you need the stock AFM--which I believe you have (with a cone filter attached to it). FYI this kit will be very nice & quick feeling
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Originally Posted by Dan Martinic;[url=tel:18612258
18612258[/url]]I don't think you have an MAF sensor: perhaps I'm wrong, but I believe Autothority chips worked with the stock system..? And, an MAF conversion would not work with stock chips that your father put back in ?
LR has two RWHP kits. One uses an MAF https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Par...-400-RWHP.html the other does not https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/944PDIRWHP.html
If you are installing the second "instant" kit, you need the stock AFM--which I believe you have (with a cone filter attached to it). FYI this kit will be very nice & quick feeling![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
LR has two RWHP kits. One uses an MAF https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Par...-400-RWHP.html the other does not https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/944PDIRWHP.html
If you are installing the second "instant" kit, you need the stock AFM--which I believe you have (with a cone filter attached to it). FYI this kit will be very nice & quick feeling
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#10
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Here is my thread recounting my experience and learnings with this chip. Lindsey MAXX chip info - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums Just two post below yours right now. I had the car since 2017, and they make a noticeable difference. There is no "downside" except if boost control fails. The chips take away the over-boost protection (so you can boost higher), but if you haven't modded it (mainly with some work on the head gasket) then you run the risk of blowing the head gasket if you are over-boosting. I've been boosting over stock levels for 4 years, however, with no ill effects. Stock is about 12 psi, I've been running around 14-15 psi. I used to trigger the OBP if I didn't watch it. Mainly in 3rd or 4th. I'd hit it in 4th at about 130-135 mph every time. Per what I've read OBP only kicks in if you over-boost for a set amount of time. Hard to hit that limit in 1st and 2nd.
Get them, you won't regret it. However, I do suggest installing a real boost gauge and keeping an eye on it. As long as you do that, you're golden. My plan is to install one, along with an A/F meter before the end of the year. That's how you keep the car reliable with mods. If something goes wacky that could endanger the car, you can know and address the issues. Really, even a stock car can benefit from more info. You really don't want to run way lean (or rich for that matter) for extended periods of time. With a turbo, lots of things can cause you to go far too lean.
Get them, you won't regret it. However, I do suggest installing a real boost gauge and keeping an eye on it. As long as you do that, you're golden. My plan is to install one, along with an A/F meter before the end of the year. That's how you keep the car reliable with mods. If something goes wacky that could endanger the car, you can know and address the issues. Really, even a stock car can benefit from more info. You really don't want to run way lean (or rich for that matter) for extended periods of time. With a turbo, lots of things can cause you to go far too lean.
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Originally Posted by 951Dreams;[url=tel:18612770
18612770[/url]]Here is my thread recounting my experience and learnings with this chip. Lindsey MAXX chip info - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums Just two post below yours right now. I had the car since 2017, and they make a noticeable difference. There is no "downside" except if boost control fails. The chips take away the over-boost protection (so you can boost higher), but if you haven't modded it (mainly with some work on the head gasket) then you run the risk of blowing the head gasket if you are over-boosting. I've been boosting over stock levels for 4 years, however, with no ill effects. Stock is about 12 psi, I've been running around 14-15 psi. I used to trigger the OBP if I didn't watch it. Mainly in 3rd or 4th. I'd hit it in 4th at about 130-135 mph every time. Per what I've read OBP only kicks in if you over-boost for a set amount of time. Hard to hit that limit in 1st and 2nd.
Get them, you won't regret it. However, I do suggest installing a real boost gauge and keeping an eye on it. As long as you do that, you're golden. My plan is to install one, along with an A/F meter before the end of the year. That's how you keep the car reliable with mods. If something goes wacky that could endanger the car, you can know and address the issues. Really, even a stock car can benefit from more info. You really don't want to run way lean (or rich for that matter) for extended periods of time. With a turbo, lots of things can cause you to go far too lean.
Get them, you won't regret it. However, I do suggest installing a real boost gauge and keeping an eye on it. As long as you do that, you're golden. My plan is to install one, along with an A/F meter before the end of the year. That's how you keep the car reliable with mods. If something goes wacky that could endanger the car, you can know and address the issues. Really, even a stock car can benefit from more info. You really don't want to run way lean (or rich for that matter) for extended periods of time. With a turbo, lots of things can cause you to go far too lean.
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Here is my thread recounting my experience and learnings with this chip. Lindsey MAXX chip info - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums Just two post below yours right now. I had the car since 2017, and they make a noticeable difference. There is no "downside" except if boost control fails. The chips take away the over-boost protection (so you can boost higher), but if you haven't modded it (mainly with some work on the head gasket) then you run the risk of blowing the head gasket if you are over-boosting. I've been boosting over stock levels for 4 years, however, with no ill effects. Stock is about 12 psi, I've been running around 14-15 psi. I used to trigger the OBP if I didn't watch it. Mainly in 3rd or 4th. I'd hit it in 4th at about 130-135 mph every time. Per what I've read OBP only kicks in if you over-boost for a set amount of time. Hard to hit that limit in 1st and 2nd.
Get them, you won't regret it. However, I do suggest installing a real boost gauge and keeping an eye on it. As long as you do that, you're golden. My plan is to install one, along with an A/F meter before the end of the year. That's how you keep the car reliable with mods. If something goes wacky that could endanger the car, you can know and address the issues. Really, even a stock car can benefit from more info. You really don't want to run way lean (or rich for that matter) for extended periods of time. With a turbo, lots of things can cause you to go far too lean.
Get them, you won't regret it. However, I do suggest installing a real boost gauge and keeping an eye on it. As long as you do that, you're golden. My plan is to install one, along with an A/F meter before the end of the year. That's how you keep the car reliable with mods. If something goes wacky that could endanger the car, you can know and address the issues. Really, even a stock car can benefit from more info. You really don't want to run way lean (or rich for that matter) for extended periods of time. With a turbo, lots of things can cause you to go far too lean.
good stuff. I’m following this also. Have a pretty much a stock 87 turbo. It appears to have some sort of aftermarket FPR and I think a shimmed stock waste gate. I’ve already installed an auto meter boost gauge, FP, and a Innovate wide band sensor so I’m in the process of making sure it is running the way it should now. The car is parked for the winter and now have a LR 3 inch exhaust to add in the spring. Next upgrades will be a new waste gate and a MAF conversion. Hoping for a Dyno in the spring…and the goal of high 200s low 300 at the wheel