Is it really what they say it is?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi guys. I've come across a deal for a 1988 951 built with a 3.0 block (modified for proper compression ratio). The car is being sold by the shop that built it and has stored it for a few years. This shop (I have to leave nameless) has a great reputation but I don't trust them. How do I tell if it really is a 3.0 block? It's got the 951 8 valve head, by the way. Oh yeah, it's also got big turbo (not ball bearing or anything, just the usual KKK setup), Autothoruty MAF, flowed head, rebuilt tranny with cup parts and cooler, proper suspension and brakes.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you do not trust them, you shouldn't be dealing with them...
Engine code identifies the engine.
Compare the water passage at the front of the engine/head (coolant bleeder area). Upon close inspection you can tell that it does not match the 2.5L pattern..
Engine code identifies the engine.
Compare the water passage at the front of the engine/head (coolant bleeder area). Upon close inspection you can tell that it does not match the 2.5L pattern..
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's my dilema. I don't trust them but they do great work and this car is a very, very good deal. I'll see if I can have a closer look when I'm there later today. Based on what they are claiming, this thing should be quite the beast.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Make a list of the items to check before you go look at the car.
A 3.0L engine is fun if built correctly.. Few things to check (other than general condition and PPI)..
- How did they lower to CR? Sleeved block with aftermarket pistons?
- Type of rods used?
- Exact turbo specs?
- How did they tune it. A MAF kit designed for a 2.5L does not work with a 3.0L!
- What has been done to the head (assuming it's a 2.7L head). Which Exhaust valves, which valve springs?
- Injectors size (a good indication of the power level??)
- Type of rods used?
Start the engine, listen closely to it when cold!
If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is!!!
A 3.0L engine is fun if built correctly.. Few things to check (other than general condition and PPI)..
- How did they lower to CR? Sleeved block with aftermarket pistons?
- Type of rods used?
- Exact turbo specs?
- How did they tune it. A MAF kit designed for a 2.5L does not work with a 3.0L!
- What has been done to the head (assuming it's a 2.7L head). Which Exhaust valves, which valve springs?
- Injectors size (a good indication of the power level??)
- Type of rods used?
Start the engine, listen closely to it when cold!
If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is!!!
#5
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ALso get a dyno-chart to verify that the car is tuned properly with all the mods they say it has. At 15psi boost, you should be seeing about 350-370rwhp if it's a stock 8V 951 head with no mods. As John said, the MAF has to be sized properly for the 3.0L engine. The chip-mappings alone vary from close-to-stock values up to 50% more fuel than stock in certain places compared to stock.