Turbo is off! AND need some good ignition wires!
04-09-2004, 07:36 AM
#1
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Turbo is off! AND need some good ignition wires!
Spent the day taking the old turbo off... Snapped I think 3 of the four bolts on the exhaust. Man some of those nuts are hard to get at! I am in the process of drilling the separator. Does the top come off or you just just drill it upside down and rinse it out?
Last edited by NZ951; 04-09-2004 at 08:01 AM.
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04-09-2004, 02:18 PM
#11
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Beru is the way to go... I have some old Beru ends that are in good shape, but no wires. Yep- Just drill the sucker then rinse it out later. If you try to take off the top you may break it. Don't forget new O-rings for it when you put it back on. Get some stainless hardware and some general "locking" nuts. The locking nuts I am referring to look like they are squished on one side. Any exhaust shop or car dealer should have them. Oh and don't forget some anti-seize on the exhaust bolts when you are putting them back on. Do you have any "stubby" wrenches? They are a lifesaver!
04-09-2004, 03:20 PM
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Make sure you use the high temp copper or nickel anti-seize too, the moly stuff doesn't hold up as well on exhaust parts whereas the copper and nickel are rated to 1800 and 2400 degrees respectively. The nickel anti-seize 's a bit pricey but then again they mainly use it in nuclear power plants and so forth.
I prefer the flex-loc type nuts (the ones that look like castlated nuts somewhat) in stainless over the deformed oval style but they're harder to find. You don't see the readily available deformed oval ones used in aviation fasteners but you do see the flex-loc type. That's reason enough for me. (technically they do use the deformed shape ones but they're a whole lot different than the ones you're talking about) Anyway for flex-loc nuts, McMaster-Carr has them for about 2 bucks each in 18-8 stainless (aka 304 or A2 stainless).
If they weren't virtually impossible to find in the US at a reasonable price, I'd use metric A286 fasteners on the exhaust parts wherever possible. Maybe you can find them in New Zealand easier than here in the US. They're not too tough to find here in inch/fractional sizes but metric is a right bastard.
A286 is great stuff for high temp applications, basically it's about as strong as a metric 12.9 bolt and stays that way at very high temperatures. Since it's still a steel (albeit a very high nickel content one) instead of a nickel alloy it's also a quite a bit more inexpensive than say a true nickel alloy like an Inconel would be.
In addition to stubby and gearwrenches, a flex head ratchet with the bent handle works really good on the turbo to crossover bolts/nuts. I just put a box end on the nut and untorque/torque with a socket on the flex head ratchet. The only one of the 4 that's somewhat difficult is the one that's backwards from the other three with the nut welded to the x-over pipe. Just get that from underneath and it's not really all that bad, the other three from the top with the intake off and the heatshield for the master cylinder removed.
Like cpt_koolbeenz said, don't cut corners and reuse the fire rings/o-rings/whatever you want to call them. Spendy or not they're a one-time deal to use. Make sure you're sure you want to fully tighten down any flanges with them before you do or you're suddenly out $15 US. They're $39 US at the dealer though which is just robbery considering what they are.
If anyone knows of a non Porsche specific source for those rings I would bet they're a whole lot cheaper, it's just a metal ring after all. Like a regular o-ring, because of the flange type mounting used for them on our cars, even if it's not metric but the cross section is about the right size and it'll fit into the machined grooves, it would work fine. It probably needs to be the right material too, but I'm not sure what they're made of might be a stainless, but they did seem pretty rusty so probably just the same steel they use for metal core head gaskets etc.
I prefer the flex-loc type nuts (the ones that look like castlated nuts somewhat) in stainless over the deformed oval style but they're harder to find. You don't see the readily available deformed oval ones used in aviation fasteners but you do see the flex-loc type. That's reason enough for me. (technically they do use the deformed shape ones but they're a whole lot different than the ones you're talking about) Anyway for flex-loc nuts, McMaster-Carr has them for about 2 bucks each in 18-8 stainless (aka 304 or A2 stainless).
If they weren't virtually impossible to find in the US at a reasonable price, I'd use metric A286 fasteners on the exhaust parts wherever possible. Maybe you can find them in New Zealand easier than here in the US. They're not too tough to find here in inch/fractional sizes but metric is a right bastard.
A286 is great stuff for high temp applications, basically it's about as strong as a metric 12.9 bolt and stays that way at very high temperatures. Since it's still a steel (albeit a very high nickel content one) instead of a nickel alloy it's also a quite a bit more inexpensive than say a true nickel alloy like an Inconel would be.
In addition to stubby and gearwrenches, a flex head ratchet with the bent handle works really good on the turbo to crossover bolts/nuts. I just put a box end on the nut and untorque/torque with a socket on the flex head ratchet. The only one of the 4 that's somewhat difficult is the one that's backwards from the other three with the nut welded to the x-over pipe. Just get that from underneath and it's not really all that bad, the other three from the top with the intake off and the heatshield for the master cylinder removed.
Like cpt_koolbeenz said, don't cut corners and reuse the fire rings/o-rings/whatever you want to call them. Spendy or not they're a one-time deal to use. Make sure you're sure you want to fully tighten down any flanges with them before you do or you're suddenly out $15 US. They're $39 US at the dealer though which is just robbery considering what they are.
If anyone knows of a non Porsche specific source for those rings I would bet they're a whole lot cheaper, it's just a metal ring after all. Like a regular o-ring, because of the flange type mounting used for them on our cars, even if it's not metric but the cross section is about the right size and it'll fit into the machined grooves, it would work fine. It probably needs to be the right material too, but I'm not sure what they're made of might be a stainless, but they did seem pretty rusty so probably just the same steel they use for metal core head gaskets etc.
