Turbo is off! AND need some good ignition wires!
#16
<<<Like cpt_koolbeenz said, don't cut corners and reuse the fire rings/o-rings/whatever you want to call them. Spendy or not they're a one-time deal to use. Make sure you're sure you want to fully tighten down any flanges with them before you do or you're suddenly out $15 US. They're $39 US at the dealer though which is just robbery considering what they are.
If anyone knows of a non Porsche specific source for those rings I would bet they're a whole lot cheaper, it's just a metal ring after all. Like a regular o-ring, because of the flange type mounting used for them on our cars, even if it's not metric but the cross section is about the right size and it'll fit into the machined grooves, it would work fine. It probably needs to be the right material too, but I'm not sure what they're made of might be a stainless, but they did seem pretty rusty so probably just the same steel they use for metal core head gaskets etc.>>>
I was talking about the rubber 0-rings on the air/oil separator. But also don't forget the exhaust rings! Thanks z3bra for remembering them. I would also like to find a different source for them. They are $$$ from Porsche. Oh BTW... they are hollow core rings not solid. Maybe that is why they are so expensive?
If anyone knows of a non Porsche specific source for those rings I would bet they're a whole lot cheaper, it's just a metal ring after all. Like a regular o-ring, because of the flange type mounting used for them on our cars, even if it's not metric but the cross section is about the right size and it'll fit into the machined grooves, it would work fine. It probably needs to be the right material too, but I'm not sure what they're made of might be a stainless, but they did seem pretty rusty so probably just the same steel they use for metal core head gaskets etc.>>>
I was talking about the rubber 0-rings on the air/oil separator. But also don't forget the exhaust rings! Thanks z3bra for remembering them. I would also like to find a different source for them. They are $$$ from Porsche. Oh BTW... they are hollow core rings not solid. Maybe that is why they are so expensive?
#17
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Reading PA
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like my Magnecore wires but I hated putting them on the first time so much I emailed Magnecore and got a lame response from them. After that I got a set of spark plug terminal plyers and now I don't mind installing them any more.
#18
Three Wheelin'
So the magnecore wires are just really difficult to pull off the plugs? Sorry, but my Beru wires are pretty tight as it is. I can't imagine it getting any worse.
#19
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Reading PA
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Mike Murcia
So the magnecore wires are just really difficult to pull off the plugs? Sorry, but my Beru wires are pretty tight as it is. I can't imagine it getting any worse.
So the magnecore wires are just really difficult to pull off the plugs? Sorry, but my Beru wires are pretty tight as it is. I can't imagine it getting any worse.
#20
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The oil air separator rings aren't that bad to find. Do a web search for a place called Martin Fluid Power. They have stores across the US or you can probably order via the web. Just measure your old o-rings carefully since these are being used in a radial seal instead of a flange type application and there's less margin for error. They're not sealing anything terribly high pressure so you do have some room for error as long as the inner and outer surfaces are a tight enough fit to seal properly.
I'm pretty sure that they're 5mm thickness on the oil/air rings, and then 20 and 24mm inside diameter. (check with calipers first though, I'm guesstimating there) Just make sure you get Viton ones in the right size and you're fine. You might be able to use Buna-N/Nitrile rings but the Viton ones are good up to 400 or so degrees farenheit and I believe Nitrile is only good to 200 or 250. Since they're touching the block and hot oil it's probably a good precaution to use the Viton ones. Viton and Buna are both equally compatible with motor oil etc.
Stay away from Silicone o-rings, oil kills them pretty quick. You can also use the light green HNBR o-rings instead of Viton, it's better for high temp stuff than Nitrile, but not quite as good as Viton is since it's only rated to 350F or so. The oil cooler green ring and the normal green ring for the turbo oil inlet from the dealer are made of HNBR for instance.
I can measure the spares I picked up when I get home to verify. They're not actually metric but they seem to be holding the seal just fine. I don't know what "dash" size they are offhand though but the intake to throttle body o-ring is a -231 o-ring for future reference. That one is ok to just use Nitrile/Buna-N on since it won't get hot enough to be an issue. Just using a -231 ring I think I paid about 50 cents for it.
The oil air separator o-rings in Viton around $2.00 each. I also got the turbo inlet and outlet ones in Viton for around the same price vs $9 from Porsche and independent shops for the bottom one.
The other factor in choosing o-rings is the durometer hardness but honestly unless you got some that were way too soft or too hard, it's probably not an issue. The range is pretty narrow as far as viton o-rings go anyway.
Oh and the rings are definitely hollow, it would be a tough thing to crush them to seal otherwise. But lets face it, they're only a sheet metal stamping that gets rolled into a tubular cross section, hardly anything that should cost 40 bucks even from the dealership.
I'm pretty sure that they're 5mm thickness on the oil/air rings, and then 20 and 24mm inside diameter. (check with calipers first though, I'm guesstimating there) Just make sure you get Viton ones in the right size and you're fine. You might be able to use Buna-N/Nitrile rings but the Viton ones are good up to 400 or so degrees farenheit and I believe Nitrile is only good to 200 or 250. Since they're touching the block and hot oil it's probably a good precaution to use the Viton ones. Viton and Buna are both equally compatible with motor oil etc.
Stay away from Silicone o-rings, oil kills them pretty quick. You can also use the light green HNBR o-rings instead of Viton, it's better for high temp stuff than Nitrile, but not quite as good as Viton is since it's only rated to 350F or so. The oil cooler green ring and the normal green ring for the turbo oil inlet from the dealer are made of HNBR for instance.
I can measure the spares I picked up when I get home to verify. They're not actually metric but they seem to be holding the seal just fine. I don't know what "dash" size they are offhand though but the intake to throttle body o-ring is a -231 o-ring for future reference. That one is ok to just use Nitrile/Buna-N on since it won't get hot enough to be an issue. Just using a -231 ring I think I paid about 50 cents for it.
The oil air separator o-rings in Viton around $2.00 each. I also got the turbo inlet and outlet ones in Viton for around the same price vs $9 from Porsche and independent shops for the bottom one.
The other factor in choosing o-rings is the durometer hardness but honestly unless you got some that were way too soft or too hard, it's probably not an issue. The range is pretty narrow as far as viton o-rings go anyway.
Oh and the rings are definitely hollow, it would be a tough thing to crush them to seal otherwise. But lets face it, they're only a sheet metal stamping that gets rolled into a tubular cross section, hardly anything that should cost 40 bucks even from the dealership.
#21
Race Director
Thread Starter
Does anyone know the part numbers for te exhaust parts I should replace? The oil seperator o-rings are in perfect condition. May have been replaced before...
Also, anyone got a set of performance wires around for sale?
Also, anyone got a set of performance wires around for sale?
#22
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not sure the first 9 numbers but the fire rings you want end with 03 and 04. The 03 ones are the bigger of the two you need two of those, one for the downpipe to turbo connection (if you break that open anyway) and one for the downpipe to cat/resonator flange. The 04 ring you need one for the turbo to x-over pipe, the same ring is used on both the header to x-over pipe flanges and again on the wastegate to wastegate output pipe flange. The wastegate input flange is slightly smaller and a different part number altogether but I'm not sure what that one is.
The bolts are just metric 10x1.5 thread pitch. I want to say they're 40mm long but I'd measure that to be certain. Nuts were covered before but they're also 10x1.5 for obvious reasons. If you replace any of the 4 studs on the turbo to downpipe or the 3 studs on the downpipe to cat flange, they're all 10x1.5 pitch. The proper measurement for length of the studs is 25mm but that doesn't take into account the length of the short threaded end that goes into the turbo and doesn't get a nut threaded on to it. The actual length measurement of the studs is 38mm although you might have an easier time finding some that are 40mm overall length.
If you took the wastegate off, there's a couple of v-band type sealing rings you might have to replace, usually it just depends on whether or not they fall to pieces when you remove the flanges clamping onto them. If they stay in one piece you can probably reuse those. They're an asbestos type material not the hollow metal rings like the previously mentioned. I just had to buy the rearmost one where the WG dump pipe connects to the pipe that merges back in after the catalyst. It was $31 US at an independent Porsche shop and typically they're pretty good on their prices, probably more if it's at the dealer of course.
The bolts are just metric 10x1.5 thread pitch. I want to say they're 40mm long but I'd measure that to be certain. Nuts were covered before but they're also 10x1.5 for obvious reasons. If you replace any of the 4 studs on the turbo to downpipe or the 3 studs on the downpipe to cat flange, they're all 10x1.5 pitch. The proper measurement for length of the studs is 25mm but that doesn't take into account the length of the short threaded end that goes into the turbo and doesn't get a nut threaded on to it. The actual length measurement of the studs is 38mm although you might have an easier time finding some that are 40mm overall length.
If you took the wastegate off, there's a couple of v-band type sealing rings you might have to replace, usually it just depends on whether or not they fall to pieces when you remove the flanges clamping onto them. If they stay in one piece you can probably reuse those. They're an asbestos type material not the hollow metal rings like the previously mentioned. I just had to buy the rearmost one where the WG dump pipe connects to the pipe that merges back in after the catalyst. It was $31 US at an independent Porsche shop and typically they're pretty good on their prices, probably more if it's at the dealer of course.
#23
Race Director
Thread Starter
Would it be possible for someone to buy some Magnecor 8.5 performance wires from a local distributor and ship them to me in New Zealand? I can paypal cash ASAP... anyone help? I think the magnecor item number is 45192?
#26
NZ-
PM MySwiss.... He has all the rings for the exhaust. Not a bad price either.
You can't get the wires locally? There are many dealers in Australia maybe you can get some from them. I don't know any distributor locally that carries them... I think you have to buy them from their site directly.
PM MySwiss.... He has all the rings for the exhaust. Not a bad price either.
You can't get the wires locally? There are many dealers in Australia maybe you can get some from them. I don't know any distributor locally that carries them... I think you have to buy them from their site directly.
#27
Originally posted by cpt_koolbeenz
<<<If anyone knows of a non Porsche specific source for those rings I would bet they're a whole lot cheaper, it's just a metal ring after all. Like a regular o-ring, because of the flange type mounting used for them on our cars, even if it's not metric but the cross section is about the right size and it'll fit into the machined grooves, it would work fine. It probably needs to be the right material too, but I'm not sure what they're made of might be a stainless, but they did seem pretty rusty so probably just the same steel they use for metal core head gaskets etc.>>>
<<<If anyone knows of a non Porsche specific source for those rings I would bet they're a whole lot cheaper, it's just a metal ring after all. Like a regular o-ring, because of the flange type mounting used for them on our cars, even if it's not metric but the cross section is about the right size and it'll fit into the machined grooves, it would work fine. It probably needs to be the right material too, but I'm not sure what they're made of might be a stainless, but they did seem pretty rusty so probably just the same steel they use for metal core head gaskets etc.>>>
#28
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks Chris, only stock wires are available in NZ! And they cost a huge amount. Over twice the magnecor wires. I will send Magnecor a email. Ahmet, thanks for the offer of shipping them, but I will contact them directly. If you like I will ship the harness to you and you can pay me when you get the money. I wont be able to ship for a few days though... Easter and I have a presentation for work to give at a conference so I am pretty busy.
#30
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks Boost. I will wait and see the response from MySwiss and Magnecor. If I dont have any luck there I will let you know. I hate not driving my car! There is a perfect correlation between my car not beeing happy and me not being happy. Its quite amazing how much you can get affected by a car! Is that extremely lame or normal...ish?