mikjel

Yesterday I installed guru chips, reliaboost, guru WG, 3 bar fpr., guru 55# injectors.

After this my car (951S) in going a bit lean I think. On normal driving my plx wideband O2 is in the 15s. On WOT on 3-4000 rpm it is in the 14s, and on WOT on 5-6000 it is in the 13s.

(I set the fqs on the dme on position 1 which is for 55# injectors)

I adjusted the reliaboost so the maxboost is 16 psi, but at redline I do not have more than 12 psi. I thought that my 26/8 would be able to hold boost better with a guru-wg.


Any thoughts??

mikjel

Yes. I did bypass the cv

eclou

My 26/6 was dropping to 12# at redline. Took it in for a 27/6 build-up. Turned out the turbine housing had a small crack inside it. Supposedly in can be common in an older turbo.

pk951

13 at 6000rpm is a bit lean you should be at 12.5 or richer to be safe.

Get a PB so you can adjust AF ratio.

schnellfahrer

I thought his latest chips were tuned for 18psi. Wouldn't 16psi mean you would be running rich?

(Congratulations on actually getting a hold of Danno).

What's in the kit that he sells for ~$300? (chips, BC, FPR?)
Did he recommend getting the injectors, or are the stock ones adequate?
Was there a core charge on the WG?

Would you need a bigger FPR when going with bigger injectors?

Hope to see you at the first AutoX in a few weeks, Mikjel!

Eivind

GWTurboS

I might be able to help you out with one of your questions.

I installed the Guru 18psi chips, wastegate shims and 3 bar FPR a few weeks ago. I am running a Reliaboost directly to the stock wastegate (no CV.) At first I could not get more than 15-16 psi in any gear, even with the Reliaboost set at its maximum pressure. After consulting with Dan, he sent me a stiffer spring for the Reliaboost. Now I can easily get 17-18 psi in 4th and 5th gear, but I have not run the car to redline in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear because I am getting some detonation on 91 octane California crap gas.

However, one thing I noticed was that the maximum boost I can get in 1st-3rd gear is 15psi. No problems hitting 18psi in 4th or 5th.

I think you can start by verifying with Dan which spring you have in your Reliaboost, and then try monitoring the peak boost you see in 4th and 5th.

Best Regards
Greg W.

Mike1982

What amazes me is how so of you can even look at the boost gauge to see 15psi in first gear, I just punch it and I have to shift so fast I would think it is very HARD to see it unless you brake test it.

GWTurboS

Mike,

You're right. Holding full throttle in any gear means you are gobbling up highway fast enough to suck in any slow moving car ahead of you.

I'm fortunate enough to live close to a lightly traveled, 4-lane country highway. In the early morning, I can hop on the road and not see another vehicle in either direction for 5 or 10 minutes. This is the only way I can actually hold the car at full throttle in any gear and take my eyes off the road for 2 seconds to look at the boost.

I actually work at a company that makes performance parts for VW and Audi cars, so we have a nice Clayton eddy-current 2WD chassis dyno in the R&D department. But even when a fixed load is programmed into the dyno, I've found it very difficult to model the same resistance forces encountered on the road. So, on-road tuning still seems to work best for me.

Best Regards,
Greg W.

toddk911

Hey Greg, your company have any parts that we can use????

GWTurboS

Hi Todd,

Unfortunately not a lot of stuff crosses over. The only thing I've actually been able to pull off the shelf and run on my car is the factory diverter valve from the 2003-2004 Golf 1.8 Turbo. We call this the 710N valve. It has a 14 pound spring in it compared to the softer spring in the Porsche valve that feels like it's about 7-10 pounds. I can post the O.E. part number if anyone needs one.

Compared to the original Porsche diverter valve, the 710N is just a little more responsive as you get on & off the throttle. More of a seat-of-the-pants improvement than anything tangible that shows up on the dyno.

Best Regards
Greg W.