Switch decision for factory alarm
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Switch decision for factory alarm
Hey,
I removed my factory alarm as I have installed an aftermarket one. I am going to use the factory dme power cut to run as an additional immobiliser. I am thinking of using a door lock button switch or a fog light switch. Could anyone offer advice on the pin assignment I would use to make this work?
I removed my factory alarm as I have installed an aftermarket one. I am going to use the factory dme power cut to run as an additional immobiliser. I am thinking of using a door lock button switch or a fog light switch. Could anyone offer advice on the pin assignment I would use to make this work?
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
There are two sets of wires that you need to bridge if you remove the factory alarm; the first set is 1 & 4 which is your DME power the one you were looking for. If you remove the alarm, the other set is either for the hood switch or the door switch ICRC; whose got their manuals handy, alarm page, "wires bridged without alarm" just under the alarm unit? jwl you still up?
#4
Race Director
Thread Starter
I have bridged the wires and removed the alarm box and key assembly etc... I guess I have not been clear enough, using the 1 and 4 wires, how would they be wired to a door lock button on the console to make it a backup immobiliser? Ie which pin assignment on the switch to use for power, earth, and the two alarm wires, if thats even right... There may be more or less involved.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
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If your new alarm has a wire that activates a 12v power source when "ON", could that activate a N/C switch to go to N/O and open the bridge between 1 and 4, no DME power. Then when you turn the alarm off, the switch goes close, 1 and 4 are connected and power restored. Is this what you mean; do you you have an extra 12v on you harness with your new alarm?
Simple solution, take a single marine grade toggle switch, stick it in the glove box behind all that stuff and nobody would know, well except for everyone here.
Simple solution, take a single marine grade toggle switch, stick it in the glove box behind all that stuff and nobody would know, well except for everyone here.
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
I dont want it to interact with the aftermarket alarm. All I want is the pin assignment on the door lock button so I can wire up a back up.
PS please dont tell anyone.
PS please dont tell anyone.
#7
<<<All I want is the pin assignment on the door lock button so I can wire up a back up.>>>
What?
You want a "kill switch" right? All you need to do is get an SPST toggle switch and connect it in series with the power to DME pins (1 and 4?) on the alarm harness. Then hide it under the dash.
What?
You want a "kill switch" right? All you need to do is get an SPST toggle switch and connect it in series with the power to DME pins (1 and 4?) on the alarm harness. Then hide it under the dash.
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#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
By door lock button I am referring to the one on the console... Yes a kill switch, not hidden but on the console. Right in front of the noses of the crooks. If I was to wire up the switch where would the wires go on the console switch?
#9
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jul 2002
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you do not want to use the door lock button, it is a momentary switch, use a mirror changeover switch or a fog light switch. If you use a fog light switch, turning it on will connect pin #2 to #6.
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
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I used a mirror switch. There are multiple pins that will work. To make it easy, bust out a multimeter and find one that has the continuity you want in the position you want.
#11
Race Director
Thread Starter
I am going to put in a new switch obviously, I may use the fog light if there is general opinion that the door lock wont work. But I dont see why it wont...