using long stud for turbo mounting
#1
using long stud for turbo mounting
I had an idea for mounting my turbo intead of buying a couple long bolts and having to move the steering rack, etc.
Is there any reason I wouldn't want to put two long studs in place of the bolts, and just use a nut/washer on the bottom end? Seems like it would make mounting them easier, and I wouldn't have to worry about stripping out the dumb hex heads. Is there room in there on the bottom to get a nut on the end?
Is there any reason I wouldn't want to put two long studs in place of the bolts, and just use a nut/washer on the bottom end? Seems like it would make mounting them easier, and I wouldn't have to worry about stripping out the dumb hex heads. Is there room in there on the bottom to get a nut on the end?
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
From my experience, the stud route is a very good idea, After shearing of an SK allen socket in the hex head, I knocked it out from the top after drilling the threads out of the CRA on the turbo. Now I use a piece of stainless threaded rod cut to lenght, and threaded nut and lock washer. It works great. I didn't have to drop the rack or anything. If you can get the hex bolt loose (the long one) before it shears off or the head strips, you should be able to knock it out the bottom without pulling the rack. Hope this helps
Chris
Chris
#4
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by mark944turbo
Make sure you get high quality studs. The ones I purchased from home depot (grade 5) stretched, and caused an oil leak.
Make sure you get high quality studs. The ones I purchased from home depot (grade 5) stretched, and caused an oil leak.
Porsche sells a strong stud in just the right size (for the long bolt). 900 061 178 02 It comes off a 930 head. Studs can make the turbo hard to remove, since the long one will not always clear the mount with the downpipe attached, and the downpipe is hard to get off until the turbo is out.